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Old 03-19-2013, 11:48 AM   #4126
Jettn Jim
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: NE PA Some... PNW Some... On HIGH ADVENTURE Most!
Oddometer: 1,652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Bub View Post
I have a blue 08 KLR with the following mods:
-Zero Gravity Windshield
-Happy trails Fork Brace-first thing I did
-Custom Rear MOAB Shock from Cogent Dynamics with front fork springs and Race Tec Emulator-best thing I did
-Moose footpegs
-Melfo Explorer tires-awesome
-Cheap piece of crap Highway pegs from E-Bay-worst thing I did
-Sargent Saddle
-Assorted Wolfman bags.

As you can see, this is mostly about comfort as I am 6'5" and 285. The performance has always been fine for me. I ride mostly gravel and twisty country roads. The tires are amazing and wear like iron.
At 58, I just did two adventure rides and one road enduro. Crashed 3x, the last being the worst. I too cracked the upper faring and left a trail of monor parts like a taillight all over Southeastern Ohio. invented a few cuss words too. A replacement for just one upper faring is about $200, no aftermarket replacement or custom that I could find. I don't understand that . Epoxy put it back into a single piece, guess I will replace it when and if I ever sell it.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:52 AM   #4127
KamikazeKLR
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Joined: May 2012
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Oddometer: 590
Thanks for the suggestions. These are the reasons why I will or won't be chosing some

- Although having a pre-built alu dash would be easy, if I need to install something quickly, plastic is way easier to cut and manipulate than metal. Also, once I do the wheatwacker, I will have a lot more room around there so I want to make a huge dash.

- I was just doing to buy a cheap 12v outlet and wire it myself.. what are the benefits of the panel kit? I'm interested..

- I've found a throttle lock that I really like similar to the throttle boss so I'll compare the two and see which one I like best

- I've heard the opposite about the HT engine guards. the tubing is so much smaller and I've heard of them bending super easily. I was just gonna go to my welder and have some made. Maybe. We'll see. I have a GoPro so having a place to put it around there would be awsome.


- Sargent seats are pretty expensive and I'm building my own for about 50 :) My BF has a SS and it's nice, I'm just trying to cut down on costs.

I can't wait to do the wheatwacker mod though. I love the way it looks and it'll be so functional in many ways. do you have pics and tricks about how to do it? I've seen a couple pics but not many..
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:07 PM   #4128
Skowinski
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Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Mojave Desert
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I made my own dashboard out of a piece of plexiglass and some aluminum straps from Lowes.

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Old 03-19-2013, 12:11 PM   #4129
KamikazeKLR
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Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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Very nice, I like that!

Hey, is anybody having issues with the stock dash/speedometer thing bouncing around alot? I feel like it might bouce completely off on day. I'm not sure if there's something underneath that needs locktite or if I need to place an extra bracket somewhere...
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Old 03-19-2013, 04:07 PM   #4130
Grinnin
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Location: Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KamikazeKLR View Post
- I was just doing to buy a cheap 12v outlet and wire it myself.. what are the benefits of the panel kit? I'm interested.

- Sargent seats are pretty expensive and I'm building my own for about 50 :) My BF has a SS and it's nice, I'm just trying to cut down on costs.
Some people want a cover or waterproof cover on the outlet to keep water out because there are live electrical contacts inside. I just got one at the auto parts store and mounted it so that it cannot fill up with rain. It's always less than 15 volts which is not enough to conduct current through fresh water. The ones I have are made of stainless.

Good for you for modifying your own seat. I made a few small changes and it fits WAY better.
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Old 03-19-2013, 04:30 PM   #4131
ThomasVolomitz
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: NE Ohio
Oddometer: 4,323
Quote:
Originally Posted by KamikazeKLR View Post
Very nice, I like that!

Hey, is anybody having issues with the stock dash/speedometer thing bouncing around alot? I feel like it might bouce completely off on day. I'm not sure if there's something underneath that needs locktite or if I need to place an extra bracket somewhere...
Yes, my 2013 gauge cluster rattled like crazy when I first bought it. I thought it was the top end of the engine. After realizing what it was I tightened and locktighted all the bolts in the immediate vicinity and it still rattled.
Then I cut a small piece of radiator hose and slipped it underneath the cluster and it has been quiet since.
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:04 PM   #4132
dmottv
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: NH Seacoast
Oddometer: 389
Quote:
Originally Posted by KamikazeKLR View Post
Thanks for the suggestions. These are the reasons why I will or won't be chosing some

- Although having a pre-built alu dash would be easy, if I need to install something quickly, plastic is way easier to cut and manipulate than metal. Also, once I do the wheatwacker, I will have a lot more room around there so I want to make a huge dash.

- I was just doing to buy a cheap 12v outlet and wire it myself.. what are the benefits of the panel kit? I'm interested..

- I've found a throttle lock that I really like similar to the throttle boss so I'll compare the two and see which one I like best

- I've heard the opposite about the HT engine guards. the tubing is so much smaller and I've heard of them bending super easily. I was just gonna go to my welder and have some made. Maybe. We'll see. I have a GoPro so having a place to put it around there would be awsome.

- Sargent seats are pretty expensive and I'm building my own for about 50 :) My BF has a SS and it's nice, I'm just trying to cut down on costs.

I can't wait to do the wheatwacker mod though. I love the way it looks and it'll be so functional in many ways. do you have pics and tricks about how to do it? I've seen a couple pics but not many..
As far as the wheatwacker mod, I split the difference between the black screw and the bend in the plastic fairing, used a straight edge to mark a line parallel with and below the bend, then used a single armed hack saw blade holder and a fine tooth blade. That way I ended up with a flat edge on each side of the cut to attach the wedges, 5/8"+. Just take your time and make sure you don't cut anything else inside the fairing. I held back slightly from cutting all the way to the headlight so there was enough plastic to act as the hinge point. I then used some heavy cardboard and clamps to play with the angle (I ended up sloped back somewhat from vertical), then traced the approximate cut edge outline onto the cardboard from the inside, added the flat edge width dimension to each side, cut the cardboard, then test clamped it to the fairing. Once I had it right, I used the cardboard as a template and cut out the thickest plastic I could find, from a marine battery box I picked up at Walmart (Canadian Tire probably has something similar). Clamp the plastic wedges to the fairing, drill the mounting holes, attach the bolts and nuts, and you're done. I used stainless bolts, washers and nuts with nylon inserts. edit to add: I just measured the inside split, 1 1/2" at the rear. The wedges include 5/8" strong on each side of the split, so 1 1/2" + 5/8" strong on each side, about 2 7/8" at the rear and 1 1/4" strong at the front for the angle that I like. YMMV.

The panel kit is pretty cool, it has a waterproof hinged cover and a powerlet plug that snaps/threads together on each side of a panel. I bought a multi sized cone drill bit, drilled the aluminum dash to the right size, attached the panel kit plug in on each side, ran the wires back to the battery next to the frame under the removed gas tank, done. I think I bought the longer wire kit so I could run to the dash, instead of under the seat or somewhere closer to the battery. There's not much room in the battery compartment for extra wires, I probably should have installed an accessory fuse block and ran the wires to that. The powerlet plug is a better more secure design than say a cig lighter plug, you can get pigtail adapters to split to a powerlet and a cig plug, or whatever else you need to run your music, etc.

A couple more pics might help:





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'07 KLR650; '02 R1150RT-P; '01 R12C Montana; '00 KDX200;
Gone: '05 450EXC; '99 K12LTC; '94 KDX250; '92 R100GS; '77 R75/7; a few others...


dmottv screwed with this post 03-19-2013 at 05:43 PM
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:10 PM   #4133
dmottv
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: NH Seacoast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KamikazeKLR View Post
Hey, is anybody having issues with the stock dash/speedometer thing bouncing around alot? I feel like it might bouce completely off on day. I'm not sure if there's something underneath that needs locktite or if I need to place an extra bracket somewhere...
Yup, same with mine. I looked and couldn't figure out what was causing it, all the bolts, screws, and brackets seem tight.
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'07 KLR650; '02 R1150RT-P; '01 R12C Montana; '00 KDX200;
Gone: '05 450EXC; '99 K12LTC; '94 KDX250; '92 R100GS; '77 R75/7; a few others...

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Old 03-19-2013, 05:18 PM   #4134
Grinnin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmottv View Post
Yup, same with mine. I looked and couldn't figure out what was causing it, all the bolts, screws, and brackets seem tight.
The dash on the first-gen KLR is secured by bolts through rubber isolators plus a rubber tube around the ignition switch. Mine bounced around a moderate amount because the rubber tube around the ignition switch was shrunken and pushed out of place. I took off the dash, added a 2" section of bicycle inner tube on top of the Kawi rubber tube on the ignition switch, positioned it carefully, and reassembled.

The dash mount was acting like a 2-point mount when it should be a 3-point mount.
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:46 PM   #4135
dmottv
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Location: NH Seacoast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinnin View Post
The dash on the first-gen KLR is secured by bolts through rubber isolators plus a rubber tube around the ignition switch. Mine bounced around a moderate amount because the rubber tube around the ignition switch was shrunken and pushed out of place. I took off the dash, added a 2" section of bicycle inner tube on top of the Kawi rubber tube on the ignition switch, positioned it carefully, and reassembled.

The dash mount was acting like a 2-point mount when it should be a 3-point mount.
Cool, thanks, I'll check it out.
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'07 KLR650; '02 R1150RT-P; '01 R12C Montana; '00 KDX200;
Gone: '05 450EXC; '99 K12LTC; '94 KDX250; '92 R100GS; '77 R75/7; a few others...

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Old 03-19-2013, 06:22 PM   #4136
KustomizingKid
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Joined: Nov 2012
Location: Minneapolis
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So with spring coming I am itching to ride, and mod my KLR!

The KLR is almost too mod friendly.
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:43 PM   #4137
KustomizingKid
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Joined: Nov 2012
Location: Minneapolis
Oddometer: 670
I want to mount some sport bike wheels on my KLR, mainly. To save some money over supermoto wheels. Anybody here personally adapted some sport bikes wheels to a KLR?
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:02 PM   #4138
SkiBumBrian
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Redding, CA
Oddometer: 1,042
CBR250R alloys will work with just the fabbing of some spacers... I think if you google it you will find it. I'd not I will se if I can find it again. I'm thinking about a set too.....
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:14 PM   #4139
KustomizingKid
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The brand new one?
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:28 PM   #4140
SkiBumBrian
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Maybe, I bet they haven't changed but I read about it over a year ago. I bet the process and article were at least 2-3 years old. There is a package for sale for 39.99 or something like that. I found it googling about supermotoing a KLR.
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