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Old 04-20-2013, 10:06 AM   #4411
8lives
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Full and clean,full I think being more important than clean,if ya keep it full your probably also thinking"let me see when I last changed it"
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:32 AM   #4412
newcastleadam
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Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
Unless there has been a motor run on too little oil, I have yet to hear of or come across any oil related motor failures.

Use whatever oil makes you happy or whichever oil marketing blurb, internet expert says and you choose to believe. Change 'it' at regular intervals as Kawa suggests. Be happy.
This.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:40 PM   #4413
tommu56
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Added front tied downs to triple tree

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTE5NVgxNjAw/$(KGrHqNHJC8FCcONU1FQBQppH!q7)w~~60_1.JPG?set_id=8 80000500F

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=96363818195

fat fingered on a droid
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:28 AM   #4414
Tsotsie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommu56 View Post
Added front tied downs to triple tree

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTE5NVgxNjAw/$(KGrHqNHJC8FCcONU1FQBQppH!q7)w~~60_1.JPG?set_id=8 80000500F

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=96363818195

fat fingered on a droid

One the very few occasions that I tow, I strap the front wheel down over the EM fork brace. The bike is then free to use its own suspension.

The concern with high up is that the suspension is decompressed and that can lead to seal issues if too far.
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:05 AM   #4415
tommu56
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Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
One the very few occasions that I tow, I strap the front wheel down over the EM fork brace. The bike is then free to use its own suspension.

The concern with high up is that the suspension is decompressed and that can lead to seal issues if too far.
I have a block that I wedge in between the wheel and triple tree to prevent shock from bottoming out haven't had any problems so far in 3 years.

tom
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:43 AM   #4416
8lives
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I too use the block when trailering,not sure where the block is cause I don't trailer much,but any old 2x4 cut to length will do and your seals will thank you!
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:56 AM   #4417
OKlr
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i've never needed a block, but can see how it would be better than nothing. i do think that with propper strapping tecnique you don't need one. Plus i have heavier prings in the klr.
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Old 04-22-2013, 11:42 AM   #4418
bomber60015
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Gents

I’ve got an 05 KLR 650, purchased third hand.

The electrical system had been extensively modified by one of the previous owners (likely the first, who also did the Doo and other rational mods). Among said mods were replacing the factory fuses with mini blade type fuses mounted on the lil plastic cover to the left of the carb.
Stator and Regulator are stock.

In an attempt to free up some electrons for heated gear use, I replaced the wire in the circuitry between the Voltage Regulator output and the battery. Originally, the circuit ran from the Regulator output, through one of the new fuses, forward to the relays and such mounted under the right hand side of the tank, and back to the positive terminal of the battery.

In stock condition, I saw, at max, 13.8v at the battery (headlight on). With my Gerbings heated liner on, there was 12.1v, sometimes 11.8v. Too low.
I replaced he wire from the Regulator output to the batter with a straight run of 10 gauge wire (with a maxi blade 20a fuse installed in the circuit).
Sure enough, I can now run the bike with my heated liner on, and the battery is seeing 13.8 to 14.2v (at 3k RPM and above).

However, when I turn the heated liner off, the voltage goes to 15.1v – too high.


All voltage readings were obtained with an inexpensive on-board voltage meter (from Sanjoe here on the board) and verified with a decent DVM.

Any ideas?
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Old 04-22-2013, 01:23 PM   #4419
OKlr
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some sort of resistor?
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Old 04-22-2013, 01:36 PM   #4420
bomber60015
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Originally Posted by OKlr View Post
some sort of resistor?
I thought about the same, but realized that, at 15.1 volts, the regulator MAY be toast . . . . . . I don't think it should be putting out that much voltage.

I am concerned as this toast status, if true, happened immediately upon my making a simple mod that shoulda helped things . . . .. I know, famous last words ;-}
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bomber60015 screwed with this post 04-22-2013 at 01:43 PM
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Old 04-22-2013, 01:54 PM   #4421
Wansfel
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Clymer's lists 15.1 as the high side of ok, but that high could boil the battery. Resistor is the same as the extra wire loss, so no gain there, however a properly placed and sized diode could work. In the forward current (conducting) mode, a diode will provide about .25 volt drop while still providing full current. Used to do this in solar/battery systems years ago to drop the charge voltage while retaining full current capability.
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Old 04-22-2013, 02:10 PM   #4422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wansfel View Post
Clymer's lists 15.1 as the high side of ok, but that high could boil the battery. Resistor is the same as the extra wire loss, so no gain there, however a properly placed and sized diode could work. In the forward current (conducting) mode, a diode will provide about .25 volt drop while still providing full current. Used to do this in solar/battery systems years ago to drop the charge voltage while retaining full current capability.
My '01 usually runs at 14.0 to 14.3, but if I ride all day it'll go up to 14.8. Too high for my tastes, but it is a "normally functioning" regulator. Yes, it means checking electrolyte levels often and it's too high for some sealed batteries.

When people say diode they usually mean a silicon diode that will have a voltage drop of .6 to .7 when forward biased. Shotky and germanium diodes are .2 to .3 but you'll have to look for them specifically.

Since a diode will reduce the voltage all the time, I don't think it's the fix you want.

Not that I know what the real fix is. The way I read the original description you've added a 10g wire parallel to the white wire from the RR to the bat. (?) Doesnt look like it should cause a problem.

How's the ground? (When in doubt, always ask about the ground.)
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Old 04-22-2013, 02:21 PM   #4423
bomber60015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinnin View Post
The way I read the original description you've added a 10g wire parallel to the white wire from the RR to the bat. (?) Doesnt look like it should cause a problem.

How's the ground? (When in doubt, always ask about the ground.)
pretty much, yessir -- I WILL check all grounds . . . the laws of electrical troublehsooting to say:

1 -- it's the last thing you touched.

2 -- it's a ground.
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Old 04-22-2013, 02:32 PM   #4424
Wansfel
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[QUOTE=Grinnin;21244196]....When people say diode they usually mean a silicon diode that will have a voltage drop of .6 to .7 when forward biased. Shotky and germanium diodes are .2 to .3 but you'll have to look for them specifically.

Since a diode will reduce the voltage all the time, I don't think it's the fix you want....QUOTE]

Your right about the voltage drops (.6 - .7). I was running on old memory. And while a diode (or even two in parallel front to back for current both directions) will drop the voltage, It will drop the same amount across the whole rpm range. Say you have 12.5 volts at 2,000 rpm normally, it could drop it 12 volts - below a minimum charge level. Depends on what is most important to you. Over charge at higher rpm or low rpm charging.

I see there are MOSFET R/Rs advertised which may work better than the KLR shunt type.
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Old 04-22-2013, 02:38 PM   #4425
RustySpokes
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Leave the vest plugged in and turned on all the time, use it to keep your lunch warm if your not wearing it.
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