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Old 04-01-2009, 08:56 AM   #91
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisC
Another BST disciple tempted by the dark side...
actually, he's more of a high priest... but like Creeper, one of the few who go astray with eyes-wide-open and might actually need a bit more instantaneous throttle response.
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Old 04-01-2009, 11:43 AM   #92
losiu OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisC
Another BST disciple tempted by the dark side...
Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
actually, he's more of a high priest... but like Creeper, one of the few who go astray with eyes-wide-open and might actually need a bit more instantaneous throttle response.
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Old 04-01-2009, 02:55 PM   #93
1stworks
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Thumb Fcr 41

Installed sudco FCR 41 kit on 03 KTM 625 SXC.

WOW !!!

This bike rips...
This is my 2nd LC4 and i wish i would have done it to my 640 adv.
Much better...

This bike takes off angery fast!!!!

Its night and Day.

firstworks
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Old 04-01-2009, 11:20 PM   #94
losiu OP
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Location: POLAND
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Latest news:

The guy ended the auction 7 days before the end for reasons known to himself only.
I tried to contact him for the last 2 days but he obviously didn't care (did you noice how nicely I put it?)
Never put te phone number on the auction site and never answered my emails.

Is that lame or what?

Since there's nothing wrong with my BST, I'm going to enjoy wheelies with the CV carb on

Losiu
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:12 AM   #95
trent
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huh? I thought the SXC came with the FCR 41.

Quote:
Originally Posted by firstworks
Installed sudco FCR 41 kit on 03 KTM 625 SXC.

WOW !!!

This bike rips...
This is my 2nd LC4 and i wish i would have done it to my 640 adv.
Much better...

This bike takes off angery fast!!!!

Its night and Day.

firstworks
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:16 AM   #96
djchan
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The 2003 SXC came with the BST40. FCR in 2004.
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:19 AM   #97
trent
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Doh! yeah just saw that. Thanks for clearing that up.
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:36 PM   #98
GreyDawggg
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What to do???

How do I check my FCR41 carb and make sure it is tuned to its best capability? Its a little thirsty maybe running rich? I am a newbie and would really appreciate some helpful tips that someone like me that isnt a mechanic can follow.. Cheers

Graeme
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Old 09-05-2009, 07:01 PM   #99
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreyDawggg
How do I check my FCR41 carb and make sure it is tuned to its best capability? Its a little thirsty maybe running rich? I am a newbie and would really appreciate some helpful tips that someone like me that isnt a mechanic can follow.. Cheers

Graeme
http://www.thumperfaq.com/jetting.htm

This will get you going for jetting an FCR.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html

This one will get you going for a BST.

OR.....you could install one of these things and take all of the beginners luck and guesswork out of the equation once you realize what portion of the jetting circuits you're using given any particular throttle opening:

http://www.jet4power.com/xcart/home.php?cat=254

There are a few of us here that love our jet4power's on our bikes-me included. While there are critics of narrow band O2 sensors that believe the light show the jet4power displays, I can only venture to guess they've never used one.

When I first installed my jet4power it took all of an hour to get the BST on my 640A spot-on. Then after installing the FCR on the same bike it was a breeze as well.

Potatoho's vids-hope he doesn't mind since they'e already posted on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHzpbHBlYCs

Here's a real-time video using a power commander to tweak the A/F ratios and a real-time visual indication of the results shown by the jet4power.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZOC6h76lIc

Dirty
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Old 09-06-2009, 07:39 PM   #100
potatoho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
Here's a real-time video using a power commander to tweak the A/F ratios and a real-time visual indication of the results shown by the jet4power.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZOC6h76lIc
In the video I went down 5 clicks (ea click is 1% on the LCD unit) and then returned back up 5. So it started with a jet4power gauge readout of middle green & intermittent low green. 5% down was solid low green. So pretty much a solid light to adjacent solid light is about 5% mixture change, and then you can figure out less than 5% by watching the duty cycle between two adjacent lights.

I like to watch for deflections to see if the acceleration fuel is sufficient. When the readout stays put or climbs during acceleration, the bike is probably pulling very hard. Though sometimes it is nice to allow a little dip in AFR, make it a little softer and revvy.

It's also nice not to require a guesstimate of idle mixture, especially since the four strokes are so prone to stall. That Husky motor is somewhat mixture finicky, from what I gather is the high flow design. Either that or it is the nature of the EFI since it probably doesn't have that reserve cloud of air-fuel hanging out in the bore. When you starve it, it will fumble pretty badly under load.
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Old 09-06-2009, 08:26 PM   #101
dirty_sanchez
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How do you have the bike tuned-which lights for idle, interstate cruise, and hard acceleration now that you can compare it with the Power Commander?

Thanks,

Dirty
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:26 PM   #102
potatoho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
How do you have the bike tuned-which lights for idle, interstate cruise, and hard acceleration now that you can compare it with the Power Commander?
On the LC4, which didn't have EFI or Power Commander etc, I had it reading top green and I was satisfied. It was very risilient so you could put the reading just about anywhere and the motor would still run smooth.

When I started with the LC4 readings, the main issue the motor had was an extreme dip at off-idle. It dove below the greens for a brief position on the throttle, and that extreme caused the motor to stumble. This was because the needle was worn and it had to be run in the lower clip positions. With a new needle I could run at the proper clip and the off-idle mixture wouldn't dip. That's the critical issue for the BST is to make sure there isn't that off-idle dip because that's where the slide begins to move and it's so easy to have an imbalance at that point on the CV carb.

The other issue on the LC4 was an intermittent leak at the silencer joint. That caused fluctuating jet4power readings at certain speeds. It made the motor have a slight vibration rumble in the mid range. It was an aftermarket (ids2) joint which doesn't fit airtight. I sealed it up with high-temp silicone tape. Cleared up the errant readings and the motor, for the first time in fact, ran smoothly in the mid range. Quite a treat!

The PC is on the Husky. I made a few maps since for some reason the stock PC map was nonsensical. So I made a zero map and the first thing I did was normalize the mixture by doing roll-ons and checking for any weird jet4power lights. In fact on that bike there was a huge dip between 3500 and 5000. I made a zero map with that area corrected and this got rid of the goofy stumbles the motor had at certain rpms. This was all just normalizing it to the top green light, which required a +4% increase between 3500-5000.

That pretty much fixed the Husky. Was terrible prior to that. Big power hole. Then I just experimented a bit below 3500 and made some progressive maps (progressive from lean to rich below 3500) to try out during rides. So I had maps which were mid green below 3500 to give a bit softer off-idle, and some at top green to be more torquey.

The PC also has an accelerator pump emulator, which is configurable. Unfortunately not configurable via the LCD unit, so I had to connect it to a computer to change that setting. The a/p setting lets you increase the responsiveness of the system by temporarily increasing the fuel level based on throttle movement. Same as a mechanical unit but it's all software. The EFI computer obviously has some of this logic already, but I've felt it was rather muddy, and the PC a/p lets you make the power more crisp.

However the bike (Husky TE450) pisses me off because you cannot ever make it smooth without the counterbalancer, and if you make it above 7krpm you are just miserable. The LC4 was smooth as glass above that with my G1 cam.

Anyways, regarding lights. Another unexpected thing I noticed while using the PC. I did some highway runs and experimented a bit with running the mixture +/- on the Husky. I could move the mixture even -10% at 70 mph and honestly could not tell from seat of the pants. I really expected to be able to notice, such as maybe a tone change or an increase/decrease in rpm. Nope. The only thing which changed was the jet4power reading and a bit of change in ability to accelerate. In fact, I was pretty disappointed in that I could not "fix" everything by correcting the air-fuel. The air-fuel was only a factor, but not the solution to that Husky motor.
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Old 09-07-2009, 02:21 AM   #103
azzad
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I am using 1 of these http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm
good bit of kit; I am not using their display I built 1 myself for a fraction of the cost.

Dazza
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:57 PM   #104
potatoho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
When I first installed my jet4power it took all of an hour to get the BST on my 640A spot-on. Then after installing the FCR on the same bike it was a breeze as well.
Along this theme, I took my TE450 out today. I'd sorta shelved it for a year or so. I'm still messing with the "jetting".

It's not so much effort to get a proper air-fuel for each unloaded rpm. It's all the acceleration-driven mixtures that are what make one bike outperform. That's the special sauce of custom needles and of EFI maps. Correcting the air-fuel during acceleration.

What they do with the Power Commander (via tuning centers), is they create a column of trim values for each position of the throttle. With the use of a dyno, they constant position the throttle and assign a dyno load to bring the motor to the low rpm of a range, then they decrease the load until the motor accelerates to unloaded rpm. AFR trim values are calculated for every 250 rpms as the motor accelerates. They repeat this test for each throttle position column.

With these trim values, they are providing multiple air-fuel corrections for a given throttle position as the motor accelerates. With a proper map, the air-fuel dips which are seen during hard acceleration can be reduced.

I have heard some positive things about the new Power Commander V with the Auto Tune. Auto Tune is an optional wideband sensor, which when you enable a learning mode, will create trim values which correspond to the acceleration patterns you used during your ride. So in theory it can create a similar map to the dyno load technique, or perhaps it might even make a better one.

Still, I'm not sure if I will spend any more money on this TE. I already have to upgrade the ECU firmware, upgraded iBeat software, and now probably need to upgrade the Power Commander. Sheesh. EFI sux.
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Old 10-13-2009, 06:25 PM   #105
wind pusher
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BST off idel stumble

Hello Gents,

I have an 06 640A and have done all crepers mods.

The problem is the off idle stalling, the needle looked good. Can the air fuel screw cause this?

Please help!
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