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Old 12-18-2014, 09:25 AM   #1
akpasta OP
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Poor Running After Rain- R100/7

Hello folks,

I fired up my 76' R100/7 this morning for the first time in a couple days after neglecting it in the rain for a couple days, which has never caused a problem in the past but ah well. It was kind of popping a bit on the way to work, which is sorta common when warming up, but seemed to pop too long, as if I was running out of gas at the main setting on the petcock. I flipped to reserve and about a mile later it won't make any power. Still idles, still runs, but something off. I parked outside of work and starting pulling the plug leads to narrow it down and it's something in the right side cylinder; it just chokes and sputters off.

Based on that I'm going to say it's probably not wet points or something, as that would affect BOTH cylinders (right?). I would think any electrical problem would affect both cylinders (right?).

My guess is fuel. Sometimes if I switch to reserve too late a carb will suck up some debris from the petcock and run funny, so that's the first thing I'm going to check; a clogged jet. Also will pull the plugs, which sometimes can reveal some info-- dark/wet and it's spark, light/dry and it's gas.

I just wanna get out there and see what info you have about common problems that can happen with an airhead that was left to sit in the rain for a bit too long. What would water in the gas do? I would guess it would effect both sides, but who knows.

Anyways, thanks!

In celebration of my first ride since the storm, I took this video of the bike warming up, guess my celebration was a bit premature, haha.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:32 AM   #2
SOLO LOBO
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Start by dumping the fuel (and perhaps water) out of your float bowls and test again.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:33 AM   #3
Rob Farmer
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Pull the float bowl and look for ghostly water bubbles in there. They are prone to getting water in the tank if the seals worn. I drain my tanks once a year.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:40 AM   #4
disston
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A few months ago I had problems with the O-rings going bad on the idle jets and idle mix jets because I had carelessly sprayed carb cleaner on them. It is funny that when an idle jet O-ring went bad the bike idled fine but lost power above idle.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:43 AM   #5
akpasta OP
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Thanks for the advice. I was going to dump the bowls anyways, to check the jets. I just didn't have time arriving to work. It's probably not an o-ring, they're less than a year old.

Question re: water in fuel/bowls. Will the water burn off if the bike runs long enough? I guess depending on how much water is in the tank, I may have to totally drain the tank in order to ride home, correct?

I'll have a look on my lunch break!

Thanks guys.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:00 AM   #6
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Also, look at the coils for cracks. I had a situation once (twice, actually) where I ran the bike, got her good and warm, then shut her down in VERY moist conditions. Water was sucked into the cooling coils, and disrupted the connection. Once the coils dried out, she ran perfectly.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:01 AM   #7
akpasta OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beater View Post
Also, look at the coils for cracks. I had a situation once (twice, actually) where I ran the bike, got her good and warm, then shut her down in VERY moist conditions. Water was sucked into the cooling coils, and disrupted the connection. Once the coils dried out, she ran perfectly.
Thanks. That's prob second on the list. I shut the bike down in very dry conditions and haven't ridden it in the rain. I'm confused what you mean by "cooling coils," can you explain?
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:11 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akpasta View Post
Thanks. That's prob second on the list. I shut the bike down in very dry conditions and haven't ridden it in the rain. I'm confused what you mean by "cooling coils," can you explain?
When the bike is running, the coils get hot. And when hot, they expand ... when they expand, they suck in whatever is at the crack ... and if you were riding in rain, or extremely moist conditions, that could be water. The water generally doesn't affect it running when it was introduced hot, as it is vapor (a gas). When you turn the bike off, the coils cool ... and the space within the coil that was taken by the air and water contracts. The air gets pushed out first as it is much less dense. The water can condense and disrupt your electrical path.

So it's not really about where the bike 'stops' ... it's more about what it ran through on the ride. This is easy to test though. Pull the plug, and keep it attached to the lead wire, and lay it on the cylinder, and check for spark. It should be a bright orange / yellow spark. Both times, I had a very weak spark .... it was a pail blue or none-at-all.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:13 AM   #9
akpasta OP
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Wicked

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beater View Post
When the bike is running, the coils get hot. And when hot, they expand ... when they expand, they suck in whatever is at the crack ... and if you were riding in rain, or extremely moist conditions, that could be water. The water generally doesn't affect it running when it was introduced hot, as it is vapor (a gas). When you turn the bike off, the coils cool ... and the space within the coil that was taken by the air and water contracts. The air gets pushed out first as it is much less dense. The water can condense and disrupt your electrical path.

So it's not really about where the bike 'stops' ... it's more about what it ran through on the ride. This is easy to test though. Pull the plug, and keep it attached to the lead wire, and lay it on the cylinder, and check for spark. It should be a bright orange / yellow spark. Both times, I had a very weak spark .... it was a pail blue or none-at-all.
Thank you! I will check spark too of course. This bike is 90,000 old. So some things like coils for instance, could be wearing.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:14 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akpasta View Post
Thanks for the advice. I was going to dump the bowls anyways, to check the jets. I just didn't have time arriving to work. It's probably not an o-ring, they're less than a year old.

Question re: water in fuel/bowls. Will the water burn off if the bike runs long enough? I guess depending on how much water is in the tank, I may have to totally drain the tank in order to ride home, correct?

I'll have a look on my lunch break!

Thanks guys.
When you pop off the bowls, take a look. Water forms lenses in the bottom of the bowl which are pretty easily seen
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your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:16 AM   #11
kballowe
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I've had this happen on my R75/5.

What works (for me) is to pull the plug wires and spray contact cleaner, gun scrubber, tri-chlor, (whatever you got that evaporates fast) and make sure that everything is dried out.

Personally, I think mine would actually run on diesel fuel
so I'm going with "electrical problem"
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:34 AM   #12
DustyOne
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it is electrical
I would look towards that as your first choice

pull & clean the plug connectors, the coil connectors...wipe and dry the coils and plug wires & all caps while also inspecting for cracks/damage or needing replacements.
Make all of the necessary parts replacements
And laying the coils out in the sun to dry out will also help

There are several threads pertaining to this type of event on this forum, so do a search and you will find some options to address the cracked casing/wet coil thing.

It happens to a lot of us......EVEN us here out in sunny/dry Arizona too
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Old 12-18-2014, 10:46 AM   #13
B_C_Ries
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Most likely cause is water at the bottom of the float bowls. This has happened to me before and I think that is why Bing makes the float bowls so easy to remove.
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:01 AM   #14
ME 109
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I'm thinking water in the bowl/s too. I get water in my tank from just washing it, and the water quickly makes its way to the carb.
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:08 AM   #15
CafeDude
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What's the condition of the plug wire? Any cracks in the insulation? Try spraying it with a silicone based spray....or WD40 if you have nothing else. See what that does.
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