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Old 07-09-2008, 05:09 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigars&Scotch
What happens when you jump in cold water?


SHRINKAGE!!
Thats correct. Makes it easier for them to slip into place with a gentle tap. Then when they go to the ambient temp they are nice and tight.
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:29 PM   #152
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Thanks. Makes a lot of sense.

And the "frozen" or stiffer seal does not get twisted when being inserted into a tight cavity, right?
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:19 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r90cafe509
does anyone know how many watts a '74 r90/6 alternator can handle? not sure if this is tips and tricks
Maybe this helps: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/altcapability.htm
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:23 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FUTURE
Thats correct. Makes it easier for them to slip into place with a gentle tap. Then when they go to the ambient temp they are nice and tight.
Ignorance can be bliss..... I have been tearing down an old neglected 60/6 with my son. We pulled the tranny to inspect splines, and found a goopy gooky mess....rear main seal? So, dug in, got my parts along with advice that whilst I was in there I should replace the o-ring on the oil pump (which, in retrospect, had a nick in it and might have been the source of oil?). Anyway, the ignorance part had to do with not knowing that there is a special tool for installing the rear main seal. It is large, much larger than I expected. I tried tapping it in gently, but could not get it to start, so into the freezer went the big rear main seal.

Let it SHRINKAGE nicely, was able to get it started quite easily with the temp differential, and tapped it in round-and-round with a dowel. Seems fine now, time will tell whether my ignorance will come back to bite me.... But, the freezer trick did let me get on with my project! Wish I had a photo of the new seal, but here's one of the gooky mess (oil+clutch dust=gookstuff)
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Old 07-10-2008, 12:23 AM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opposedcyljunkie
Thanks. Makes a lot of sense.

And the "frozen" or stiffer seal does not get twisted when being inserted into a tight cavity, right?
You still have to be gentle when you are putting it so it wont twist. Cooling it down makes it shrink a very small amount and allows the seal to go in easier. Also us a small amount of oil on the mating surfaces of both the seal and where the seal is going into.
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:05 AM   #156
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/6 Headlight lens fallout: solved!

I've been re-doing my /6, and one of the things that had been puzzling me was a crack in the headlight lens, all the way across. It soon became apparent, as I re-wired, painted and reinstalled, that the little clippy thingy on the bottom that is supposed to hold the lens "on", is really a POS. I am used to my /2, which has a screw that holds two tabs together to hold the lens assembly on: absolutely a positive connection.

The headlight crack happened, I am sure, when the lens popped out and fell down onto the forks. And before I put my new $50 lens and gasket at risk, I needed to find a way to fix that sucka.... I tried drilling into the tab so that I could run a screw up into it, but you know what it's like trying to drill into spring metal... I thought maybe I could bend a paper clip to make a little gizmo to hold the two holes together, nah, mickey mouse.

So this was my solution: zip ties. Yep, high-tech airhead zip ties. I am sure that there are the Kevlar equivalent to zip ties for the airline industry (anybody have a zip tie that won't chafe through over time.....?) but for the time being, my Home Depot zip tie does the job: neat, effective.

Photo below is the routing of the zip tie. Notice the BMW color co-ordination, please
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:07 AM   #157
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And the finished product

Gently push together, pull zip tight, trim, and voila: problem solved.



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Old 07-26-2008, 08:45 PM   #158
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/6 headlight lens fallout

You're right - the spring clip headlight retainer is a POS. With alot of patience I was able to drill the spring clip to accept a 6/32 stainless steel machine screw. Once you have the spring clip drilled you line up the drilled hole with the slot in the headlight housing and enlarge the slot just slightly to accept the screw.
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Old 07-28-2008, 03:50 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spencnor
You're right - the spring clip headlight retainer is a POS. With alot of patience I was able to drill the spring clip to accept a 6/32 stainless steel machine screw. Once you have the spring clip drilled you line up the drilled hole with the slot in the headlight housing and enlarge the slot just slightly to accept the screw.
You have more patience, and a sharper drillbit, than I.... that is what I started out thinking I would do, but soon the thought of zipties came in, and that was that! But absolutely, something has to be done. I, and many others, can post a picture of a cracked lens, having fallen out on the road.
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Old 08-20-2008, 09:35 AM   #160
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Been monkeying with my '83 R65 for a while now. I guess everybody accumulates some little tips along the way.

Got so tired of having the seat slam down on my knuckles that I mounted a gas strut (the shortest one I could find was for a VW Scirocco trunk lid).

First time I removed the front engine cover the shop manual emphasized in BIG BLOCK LETTERS to remove battery connections or take extra special pains NOT to ground the diode board with the cover. All this because the damn thing is fully exposed from the factory! I attached a square of gasket/insulation on the board to shield the PC connections. What the hell was it left exposed for in the first place?

If this was mentioned I missed it, but a standard round automotive halogen lamp fits the headlight assembly perfectly once the three glass alignment tabs are ground off of the body. It just replaces all of the OEM innards and the original harness (happily) plugs right in.

Bike is so tough on batteries that I did two little fixes. There's now an NAPA 1.5A trickle charger popriveted to the top of the air cleaner. Has a six inch pigtail that I just plug in occasionally if I'm not giving the charging system adequate workout (too many short hops). I also wanted to completely eliminate any possibility of passive grounds when shut off so I installed a battery disconnect under the tank. I got mine from a boat store. Just a high amp rotary switch with a removable red plastic key. It's an additionally safety for theft as well. Even if someone knew how to hotwire this bike, they'd not likely ever find the main switch under the tank.

One of my favorite 'tips' is the use of black thermal shrink tubing. I liked the look of the cloth reinforced gas lines but not the way they frayed at the ends. An inch of shrink tubing on the ends before assembly finishes them off cleanly. It's been there for five years. This stuff is VERY chemical resistant.

Where the throttle and choke lines enter the top of the carb has always been weak point. It's almost impossibe for them not to strain here. A few layers of shrink tubing of progressively longer pieces makes an unbeatable strain relief here.

I was going to replace my spark plug wires a few years back just to improve the looks. They were horrifically expensive. I went back to the electronics supply house in town and got a couple of yards of heavy wall shrink tube with internal adhesive. This stuff is REALLY good for any applications that you'd like to keep moisture free. I slid it over the wires (get a size that is no more than twice the size of what you're covering... typical ratios on this stuff are 50percent shrinkage. Special types can shrink more than that, but specialty categories of this type of stuff can be very pricey). Put a bend in the leads that roughly conforms to the shape/bend required between the coil and spark plug and heat it down with a hot air gun. It's much better than new and looks fantastic.

There are a few other spots on the bike that take this treatment well. It's amazing how much it contributes to both the reliability and looks.

Replaced the shift linkage with stainless steel threaded rod and ball socket rod ends. I don't know how many other BMWs had the astonishingly cheesy little bent rod that mine had hiding within the little rubber accordion boot, but this was a huge imrovement. Original broke at 18K and when I got the boot off I was pretty angry that a bike so prized for it's reliability would have skimped here. I also redrilled the connection on the ear of the engine side shift half way between the original and the center point (shortened the shift travel) Maybe my bike shifts easier than others, but I saw no good reason whatsoever for having to move my boot so many damn inches to change gears. Much improved.

Hmm, so many little things, but I'm probably abusing the space here by now.

The glass lens broke on my speedo and I discovered that the antiglare stuff they use is (unless this has changed recently) just not available in the US. The only anti glare I could find was lightly frosted and looked like hell. BMW uses a light pebbling on the surface instead of frosting. I finally found my way to a clock/watch repair who had a good selection of convex clock lenses (essentially anti glare) and a pair were exactly the right diameter. Not safety glass, but they've been there for over five years now. They look much cooler than the originals in fact.

Must be some more little tips, but I'll be civil here and save em for later.
GREAT forum you guys!

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Old 08-20-2008, 05:28 PM   #161
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Thank you, BIKERLT. That was a good bunch of stuff. I first saw the bit about the shrinkwrap on the fuel lines over on BMWOA, but had not seen the iteration for strain relief... good one!

I had speculated that a standard automotive headlight might work, glad to see it confirmed.

Do you have any photos of your details that you could post? I keep an archive of "good ideas" photos, and would love to see yours.

Tanksagain
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Old 08-21-2008, 05:09 AM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerlt
Been monkeying with my '83 R65 for a while now. I guess everybody accumulates some little tips along the way...


...Hmm, so many little things, but I'm probably abusing the space here by now.

Awesome tips! More!

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Old 08-21-2008, 05:16 AM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerlt
............
The glass lens broke on my speedo and I discovered that the antiglare stuff they use is (unless this has changed recently) just not available in the US. The only anti glare I could find was lightly frosted and looked like hell. BMW uses a light pebbling on the surface instead of frosting. I finally found my way to a clock/watch repair who had a good selection of convex clock lenses (essentially anti glare) and a pair were exactly the right diameter. Not safety glass, but they've been there for over five years now. They look much cooler than the originals in fact.
Great tips. Thanks.

How did you replace the lens? Any links with more info?
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Old 08-21-2008, 05:58 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerlt
... Hmm, so many little things, but I'm probably abusing the space here by now.
If this is abuse, then bring it on ... please

Cheers

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Old 08-21-2008, 07:18 AM   #165
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Thanks for that encouragement. I'll blow the dust off of my digital camera and try to post some pics.
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