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Old 01-30-2009, 03:58 AM   #241
Sucks2drive
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homerj
Lace replacement cables along side the current cables and zip tie them together. Cover the ends with duct tape. If a cable snaps mid ride you just have to swap the ends and you're back on the road.
Im gonna agree....and add to your tip.

Wrap the ends of the cables in Saran wrap FIRST! this stops the adhesive from the duct tape gumming up the cable when it gets old and heated by say the weather or the engine. I speak from personal frustrating experience here!

as another tip also...... when removing old cable to fit a new one. tie some really strong cord ( paracord is what i used) to the old cable and then gently feed old cable out...... to replace new cable attach the cord to nipple .. and pull through. this way the routing will always be correct! (damhik)
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Old 02-07-2009, 08:54 PM   #242
bgoodsoil
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The bottom left bolt that holds the gearbox on my G/S has an allens head. My allens wrench bottoms out on the shift lever and it's hard to get out. Replaced it with 13mm hex head and keep a 13mm ratcheting box end on the bike. Replaced the airbox bolts with 13mm also, that ratcheting box end makes them a heckuva lot easier to get out too. In fact, replace every 8mm bolt you can with a 13mm and it'll make life easier.

5/8" Nylon plugs at the local hardware store are a perfect fit to plug the emissions plumbing holes in the airbox.

If you install the Enduralast alternator you won't have a diode board in your alternator cover anymore. Put a tupperware box in there and stash parts in it.
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:40 PM   #243
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Charging light

Quote:
Originally Posted by yamadude
so I recently started on an r80gs project and I seem to recall something about the charging light being an issue... like if the bulb goes out it doesn't charge. Is this true and if so how can it be fixed? I was thinking of putting a volt meter on can I just eliminate the light?
Yes, that's right. The bulb is crucial to the standard charging circuit; I've heard of some people fitting a suitable resistor in its place, but then you'd have no warning light on start up....I've never had one fail though
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:36 AM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamadude
so I recently started on an r80gs project and I seem to recall something about the charging light being an issue... like if the bulb goes out it doesn't charge. Is this true and if so how can it be fixed? I was thinking of putting a volt meter on can I just eliminate the light?
Motorrad Elektrik has exactly the fix for that. Something like $3.50 only.
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:32 PM   #245
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Use a 1watt 330 ohm resister in parallel with the lamp. You will still have all the functions of the lamp and still generate if the lamp fails.
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:59 AM   #246
TopDogDave
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making the brake pedal bigger for use with enduro boots

When using enduro boots on long offroad trips I found it virtually impossible to use the rear brake pedal since the boot cannot flex forward against the carb inlet manifolds - so cannot depress the pedal enough.

To get around this I fabricated an outwards extension to the pedal so I can actuate it duck-foot fashion outside of the carb area.

Works well and can be bolted off if required later.







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Old 02-20-2009, 08:47 PM   #247
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did he say EZ Pull Throttle springs?

well, I'm back flogging my springs for Airheads with Bing CV carbs.
Makes long distance easy, and finessing the front brake through turns a gas.
Lots of Airheads use 'em, cause they work real good.
www.bmwthrottlesprings.com
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Old 02-21-2009, 02:09 AM   #248
TopDogDave
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+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by channelcat
well, I'm back flogging my springs for Airheads with Bing CV carbs.
Makes long distance easy, and finessing the front brake through turns a gas.
Lots of Airheads use 'em, cause they work real good.
www.bmwthrottlesprings.com
I have these springs and they're brilliant on long rides over dirt where you don't want a fixed 'cruise control' thingy....anytime else for that matter....TDD
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Old 03-14-2009, 07:33 PM   #249
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Enduralast Alternator Question:

Where'd you guys hang the regulator/rectifier unit on your R100GS?

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Old 03-14-2009, 07:58 PM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by channelcat
well, I'm back flogging my springs for Airheads with Bing CV carbs.
Makes long distance easy, and finessing the front brake through turns a gas.
Lots of Airheads use 'em, cause they work real good.
www.bmwthrottlesprings.com
For cryin' out loud, buy his springs. They really are great.
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:39 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce
Enduralast Alternator Question:

Where'd you guys hang the regulator/rectifier unit on your R100GS?

i bolted it on an aluminum plate and straped the plate against the battery (i have an Odyssey PC-680 though which is slightly higher but half the size in width)
hope this help
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Old 03-15-2009, 06:56 PM   #252
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Over here in Oz where it can get real hot they can be a problem unless they can be mounted out in the wind somewhere - they produce a bit of heat themselves and dont like getting too hot.

They are troublesome on VFRs and hard to relocate- I have mine fixed to a heatsink with conductive paste , and have a big PC cooling fan blowing over it, which has solved the problem.
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:07 AM   #253
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If you guys blow a charging light on a GS, you can sub in one of the other dashboard lights temporarily (I like the high beam option the best,) to keep your system charging. Dont think too much about the wattage
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:22 AM   #254
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I dont want to start a fire in this thread.

I dont want to start a fire in this thread but I want more giddy-up for my R80 G/S PD.

I know extracting significant extra HP out of these things aint easy.

I'm thinking if there was one engine mod I want to do it would be this.

I know its a bit exy.

What have been peoples experience with the Siebenrock power up kits for the R80 G/S?

I'm thinking of just doing this one engine mod.

Am I on the right track?

Do they deliver the extra performace as claimed?
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Old 03-22-2009, 04:39 AM   #255
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Everything i have read suggests that they perform as advertised.

I bored my R75/7 out to 900 , and if it makes anything like the difference that that made it would be the best bang for the buck you will get.

The claim that it is plug and play stacks up too - I didnt have to change anything else when I bored the 750 - the carburation etc was fine.
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