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Old 06-08-2009, 06:58 AM   #286
MIOB
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Question: My airhead likes to mark his territory. The main reason is some oil getting past the pushrodtubes. I know that it's easy to make a tool to press the tubes a bit further into the engine without having to take the cylinderheads off, but I've never seen any pictures of such a tool. Anyone here who has a picture?
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:21 PM   #287
RandyB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baldwithglasses
Buy a second Airhead so you'll have a backup to ride if the first breaks. Also, you can wrench on one while riding the other. If you're super lucky, you can wrench on both at the same time!
I'm in that situation right now. We have different definitions of luck.
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Old 06-08-2009, 05:32 PM   #288
outfit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIOB
Question: My airhead likes to mark his territory. The main reason is some oil getting past the pushrodtubes. I know that it's easy to make a tool to press the tubes a bit further into the engine without having to take the cylinderheads off, but I've never seen any pictures of such a tool. Anyone here who has a picture?
You really dont want to push the tube's down any further. Infact if you use the tool it will move the ring and not the tube. The ring is a press fit and you may damage the tube, also when you come to replace the pushrod tube rubber's they will have too much pressure on them which will result in them splitting.

Just swap them out for new one's, it's not a big deal.
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:42 PM   #289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outfit
You really dont want to push the tube's down any further. Infact if you use the tool it will move the ring and not the tube. The ring is a press fit and you may damage the tube, also when you come to replace the pushrod tube rubber's they will have too much pressure on them which will result in them splitting.

Just swap them out for new one's, it's not a big deal.

Hola, +1, Here's a quote from Snowbum's website, and I've seen this other places lately too.
" Do NOT try to adjust the collars on the 1981 and later pushrod tubes...they are brazed in place. It is unclear to me exactly when the brazing first began; I believe it was phased-in during the 1981 production year. Some literature will state that it was from the 1981 change to Nikasil cylinders. If you have earlier adjustable ones, you could back them off a bit before assembling the cylinders to the block, and adjust them after you are all done. Frankly, I feel these should not be touched at all unless grossly wrong; and setting them too tight to the seals is hard on the seals, particularly the /5 types. The WORST thing you can do would be to bang on them and damage or, WORSE, move the tubes. If you insist, there is a BMW tool ....HOWEVER, a very simple tool from a piece of old electrical conduit can be used to work on the collars. See any Clymer's or Haynes for the sketch....but, again, I feel you should leave the movable version of the collars alone, unless grossly at the wrong depth. The collar ring is about 5 mm below the cylinder base seating plane surface at the highest point. One thing you sure want to do is avoid ever having to replace a pushrod tube, as the process and special tool needed is unpleasant, and you surely will ruin some new tubes in the learning process; and the aftermarket stainless steel ones are the way to go. You need a well-fitting mandrel. Seibenrock makes one, I think. "
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Old 06-09-2009, 12:56 AM   #290
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Ok, that's a big suprise to me. I read about it on several webpages and nowhere anything like this was mentioned. But replacing the tubes isn't a very big deal?

I'll have to get myself a copy of haynes....
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Old 06-09-2009, 04:47 AM   #291
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I'm doing some pushrod seals right now and the tubes were all kittywampus; some were proud of the cylinder/head surface, and two had loose collars. The right side cylinder wasn't leaking at the seals and appeared to be about right, so set up the left side to match. Had to heat the head and drift the pushrod tube back into the head with a suitably sized socket.

The two loose collars got cleaned and soldered - hope the solder is enough to hold. I'd hope that 300F wouldn't be enough to loosen, but don't really recall what temp solder flows. And the melting temp is different for the different alloys. I'm guessing 400-450F.

So that Snowbum exerpt is very timely, but still a little confusing on placement of the collar. The way I made sense of it, is to place the cylinder on the table, cylinder base up. Consider the plane of the cylinder base; the collar should be about 5mm away, and below that plane, at the nearest point. I'll have to take a look tomorrow to see if that is, in fact, the way it should be.

But after doing this job I certainly agree with SBum: Don't try to adjust the collars on the pushrod tube seals!
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Old 06-09-2009, 04:49 AM   #292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIOB
Ok, that's a big suprise to me. I read about it on several webpages and nowhere anything like this was mentioned. But replacing the tubes isn't a very big deal?

I'll have to get myself a copy of haynes....
Replacing the pushrod tubes is a big deal (read the last part in Snowbum's quote posted above) - replacing the pushrod seals is not such a big deal.
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Old 06-09-2009, 12:18 PM   #293
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Great tutorial on PRT seals

Hola, I found this website: http://www.pbase.com/dqmohan/prtseals on replacing the PRT seals, it includes step by step photos and info.

The site shows how to do a complete, bullet proof method, but I am considering only pulling the head out enough to replace the seals, check the gaskets and o-rings, and if okay, replace the PRT seals and putting it back together. This method would be only if the gaskets and o-rings were good. Otherwise, the full method entails, taking out the wrist pin, to avoid pulling out the piston from the head, and many other details. Another method is to pull the piston from the cylinder head intact and use large hose clamps to ease it back in place afterwards.

The whole job, no matter what method a person uses is rift with "no screw up" details, as you will see when you wade through all the data. I don't have an exhaust nut wrench to start with, but will go to my local BMW shop and have them loosen them for me and continue from there, because the exhaust nuts are another "touchy" deal, as it's a couple hundred bucks to re-machine stripped threads in the head. Bueno suerte (good luck) Saludos, Eduardo
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Old 06-09-2009, 01:49 PM   #294
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Thank you very much for that link Eduardo, great site!!

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Old 06-09-2009, 02:00 PM   #295
RandyB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIOB
Question: My airhead likes to mark his territory. The main reason is some oil getting past the pushrodtubes.
Are you running synthetic oil?
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Old 06-10-2009, 06:52 AM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eduardo
I don't have an exhaust nut wrench to start with, but will go to my local BMW shop and have them loosen them for me and continue from there, because the exhaust nuts are another "touchy" deal, as it's a couple hundred bucks to re-machine stripped threads in the head. Bueno suerte (good luck) Saludos, Eduardo
You should pick up one of those wrenches. Each season you should anti-sieze the threads. Lots of people have them for sale, JTWind on this site sells them too.
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Old 06-10-2009, 08:51 AM   #297
Eduardo
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Originally Posted by elmoreman
You should pick up one of those wrenches. Each season you should anti-sieze the threads. Lots of people have them for sale, JTWind on this site sells them too.
Hola, Yep, I should have one, but this actually is the first time, with PRT seals, that I've even thought of disturbing the exhaust. I'll probably machine one out, and add it to my pile of jigs and gadgets I've made to make things easier. Thanks for the link to Northwoods. Saludos, Eduardo
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:17 PM   #298
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External fuse panel

One of the LESS brilliant ideas for the R90S was the fuse panel INSIDE the headlight bucket.I know people use to relocate them and in fact there may have been a kit at one time.Any one remember these or got any good suggestions.I just had to pull mine down and may as well take care of it NOW!
Thanks!
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Old 06-16-2009, 04:27 PM   #299
outfit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asphalt Outlaw Hero
One of the LESS brilliant ideas for the R90S was the fuse panel INSIDE the headlight bucket.I know people use to relocate them and in fact there may have been a kit at one time.Any one remember these or got any good suggestions.I just had to pull mine down and may as well take care of it NOW!
Thanks!
I'm useing this - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DURITE-BLADE-F...3A2%7C294%3A30

I'm sure you'll have somthing similar State Side. Radio Shack maybe?
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Old 06-17-2009, 02:36 PM   #300
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BMW connecting rods and bearing shells?

I have a clanking engine that I believe is due to bad connecting rod bearing shells

My question is .... drum roll

Can I replace the shells without taking engine out of frame? I am supposing that the journals of the crankshaft are good ....

Where can I get the tool to remove connecting rod bolts or at least what is the size I need ?

thanks and wish me luck !!

Fraser in Toronto
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