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Old 07-08-2010, 02:17 PM   #421
Flying-D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg
Couldn't really set the timing right.? Analog meter.? 6V bulb.? LED timing light... ?
It was OK...but not right. Loud....clacky.
So I went back to the old school timing device....
I somehow found a single sheet of tobacco product style rolling paper, no clue of how that was part of the collection.....
Stuck it between the points and twisted the plate...when they released the paper...the points were set.
I reused the paper to ease global warming....
The bike runs great!
So is the motor at TDC for this? How about a little more explanation?
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Old 07-10-2010, 05:17 PM   #422
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying-D
So is the motor at TDC for this? How about a little more explanation?
You set points with the rubbing block of the points on the top of one of the lobe on the points cam. This is where the points are fully open. You then set just exactly what "fully open" is with a feeler gauge.

The maximum amount (distance) the points open controls the amount of time the points are closed. The closed time is the dwell time...the duration that the points are conducting current and charging the coils. The entire point plate is rotated to control when the points open relative to crankshaft position---the timing. Changing the points gap changes the timing so you set the gap first then the timing second.

I gather the trick here was to leave the point gap alone, rotate the entire plate until the points closed enough to pinch the paper, then rotate it back until the points just released the paper and call it good. Essentially the timing was set to where the rubbing block on the points was just climbing the cam enough to open the points the thickness of the paper. The points were set directly relative to the camshaft, not the crank at all.

The points open and fire the plugs before the pistons come up on TDC. The faster the engine runs, the more before TDC you fire the plugs, that's the job of the advance mechanism. Setting the timing with the engine off (Static) you set to a certain number of degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTCC). You can to it with a static light (which indicates exactly when the points open) and adjust to the marks on the flywheel, or I guess you can use the rolling paper routine and get the same place.

Hey...if it runs good...

Plaka screwed with this post 07-10-2010 at 05:35 PM
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Old 07-10-2010, 06:38 PM   #423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
You set points ...
... and I thought Snowbum made it sound difficult ...
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:08 PM   #424
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zebedee
... and I thought Snowbum made it sound difficult ...
You set points with the rubbing block of the points on the top of one of the lobe on the points cam. This is where the points are fully open. You then set just exactly what "fully open" is with a feeler gauge.




The maximum amount (distance) the points open controls the amount of time the points are closed. The closed time is the dwell time...the duration that the points are conducting current and charging the coils!! The entire point plate is rotated to control when the points open relative to crankshaft position---the timing. Changing the points gap changes the timing so you set the gap first then the timing second.

I gather the trick here was to leave the point gap alone, rotate the entire plate until the points closed enough to pinch the paper, then rotate it back until the points just released the paper and call it good. Essentially the timing was set to where the rubbing block on the points was just climbing the cam enough to open the points the thickness of the paper. The points were set directly relative to the camshaft, not the crank at all.




The points open and fire the plugs before the pistons come up on TDC. The faster the engine runs, the more before TDC you fire the plugs, that's the job of the advance mechanism. Setting the timing with the engine off (Static) you set to a certain number of degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTCC). You can to it with a static light (which indicates exactly when the points open) and adjust to the marks on the flywheel, or I guess you can use the rolling paper routine and get the same place.

Hey...if it runs good...



BETTER?
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:20 PM   #425
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OMG. You ARE Snowbum!
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Old 07-12-2010, 07:11 PM   #426
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Originally Posted by Jasper ST4
OMG. You ARE Snowbum!
oh please
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Old 07-13-2010, 07:04 PM   #427
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You set the valves at "S".....
Get the points to 16.....
loosen the 2 screws on the points plate....
set the magneto mark, and the flywheel to "OT"...
...stick a rolling paper between the points.....
rotate points plate until rolling paper is released....
tighten shit up....roll something up.....ride.
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Old 07-13-2010, 09:25 PM   #428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg
You set the valves at "S".....
Get the points to 16.....
loosen the 2 screws on the points plate....
set the magneto mark, and the flywheel to "OT"...

I think you got it the other way around. Valves are set at "OT", and the points are set at "S"
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Old 07-14-2010, 09:01 AM   #429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opposedcyljunkie
I think you got it the other way around. Valves are set at "OT", and the points are set at "S"
You're right...my bad
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Old 07-14-2010, 09:14 AM   #430
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Forget the points and timing. Forget new batteries and tires. This is much more important.
I FIXED MY HANDGRIPS!!!!

Damn I wish I'd done this 39K miles ago. I don't know if this applies to any other airheads. Mine's an '82 R65. The grips, no mattter how well I cleaned them, always seemed to come undone and start to slide off the bars. I even tried some mild adhesive. In July, they just seem to get gooey inside all on their own and come unstuck again. I just got used to rotating them up tight at the next stop light and put it off for years. It was never dangerous. Just annoying.

Yesterday I finallly got serious and decided to put some friction tape under them. I spied some of that sticks-to-itself thick rubber electrical tape on my bench. It comes rolled with a plastic strip separating the layers.

I cut about a two ft section and wrapped the bar to within about an inch of the width of the grip progressively fattening the wrap toward the middle so that I had a profile exactly like the following.....


A friend in college had a Triumph that I'd borrow occasionally and I've always wondered why more bikes didn't have this rounded grip. I wear a size XXL glove, so maybe it's just me.

Anyway, the grips, naturally, would not go back on. Not for anything. That rubber tape is sticky stuff indeed. I grabbed a bottle of 99percent isopropyl alcohol and soaked everything good. Rubbing alcohol is a bit slippery, and its second mission in life, after killing germs, is evaporating away to nothing. Perfect. Grips went right on. Ten minutes later, they were pretty much permanently set. I'll have to cut them off to replace them. Slightly lumpier than the above, but I don't care. It's pretty impressive how much a little change like increasing the dia of the grip a little and adhering it rock solid to the bars can seem to improve things. One part reality and four parts perception perhaps, but a definite improvement in control on the road.

Now back to the regularly scheduled tuning tutorials... until my next manic, almost useful, insight strikes.

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Old 07-14-2010, 09:43 AM   #431
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I've always put grips on by spraying interior of grip with some acrylic quick-dry paint from rattle-can, and then slipping grip on before paint dries. While wet, it works to lube the grip and when dry it's very secure. YMMV...
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Old 07-14-2010, 09:44 AM   #432
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Yes yes... but, these go to ELEVEN!
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Old 07-14-2010, 05:47 PM   #433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimmeslack
I've always put grips on by spraying interior of grip with some acrylic quick-dry paint from rattle-can, and then slipping grip on before paint dries. While wet, it works to lube the grip and when dry it's very secure. YMMV...

Wife's hairspray works great too!
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Old 07-15-2010, 08:35 AM   #434
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Indeed. But.... nevermind
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Old 07-15-2010, 12:42 PM   #435
Mark Manley
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improved fuel consumption

I am not sure if this tips is elsewhere on this thread so apologies for the repeat if it is. I have found that after about 30,000 miles the choke discs in the carbs get slightly scored where they have been rotating on the body, I have lapped mine and find that I get another 2 or 3 mpg for no outlay.
I am lucky enough to have access to a lapping machine but am sure if you were to polish them with the finest grade wet and dry on a flat, that is ground surface or a surface table, it would have a similar effect.
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