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Old 07-20-2010, 09:12 PM   #436
RecycledRS
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My 82 RS has always been a hard starter and no amount of chock adjusting seemed to help. I checked all the normal chock assembly problems but could find nothing wrong. While viewing Motobins site, I found they listed a "Hints & Tips" page with one tip that seemed to describe my exact symptoms.

Quote "Cold Starting Problems can often be cured by replacing your old float chamber gaskets unless they provide a really air-tight seal around the choke fuel pick-up tube, the fuel level in the auxiliary chamber will not be raised, and the cold start mixture will not be further enriched during initial operation. The Auxiliary Carburettor itself can often become loose, so being by-passed and ineffective; the resultant air leak will also promote 'surging' at about 40 mph on a small throttle opening change the gasket every few years, and make sure the screws are really tight."

I checked the float bowl gaskets and found that they were indeed warped by the chock fuel pick-up! After replacing the gaskets, starting was dramatically improved and the surging described was gone.

http://www.motobins.co.uk/motobins-hints-and-tips.php
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Old 07-21-2010, 04:56 AM   #437
Jasper ST4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svejkovat
Forget the points and timing. Forget new batteries and tires. This is much more important.
I FIXED MY HANDGRIPS!!!!
I had those too, I believe they are for a slightly different bar size.

I used to always use gasoline, but now I use laquer thinner, I clean up the bar real well, drench the insides of the grips and on they go. I have to cut them off.
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:57 AM   #438
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RecycledRS
My 82 RS has always been a hard starter and no amount of chock adjusting seemed to help. I checked all the normal chock assembly problems but could find nothing wrong. While viewing Motobins site, I found they listed a "Hints & Tips" page with one tip that seemed to describe my exact symptoms.

Quote "Cold Starting Problems can often be cured by replacing your old float chamber gaskets unless they provide a really air-tight seal around the choke fuel pick-up tube, the fuel level in the auxiliary chamber will not be raised, and the cold start mixture will not be further enriched during initial operation. The Auxiliary Carburettor itself can often become loose, so being by-passed and ineffective; the resultant air leak will also promote 'surging' at about 40 mph on a small throttle opening change the gasket every few years, and make sure the screws are really tight."


I checked the float bowl gaskets and found that they were indeed warped by the chock fuel pick-up! After replacing the gaskets, starting was dramatically improved and the surging described was gone.

http://www.motobins.co.uk/motobins-hints-and-tips.php
I've been using the red silicone bowl gaskets from RealGaskets (?). They work great but they were a bit of a pain to install initially, had to put a couple dabs of goop on them to hold them in place. I expect them to last forever and not harden up like the cork gaskets.

You have to bee very careful with the gasket under the choke cover. It has a narrow spot that can get sucked in giving an air leak. I fine smear of silicone on the outside over the obvious place is good insurance.
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:57 PM   #439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
I've been using the red silicone bowl gaskets from RealGaskets (?). They work great but they were a bit of a pain to install initially, had to put a couple dabs of goop on them to hold them in place. I expect them to last forever and not harden up like the cork gaskets.

You have to bee very careful with the gasket under the choke cover. It has a narrow spot that can get sucked in giving an air leak. I fine smear of silicone on the outside over the obvious place is good insurance.
If the choke gasket is getting sucked in that is usually caused by a warped cover. on every carb build i do and have ever done in the past, I put those on my flat grantite plate with some 600 grit paper and wd40 and make them flat with a little elbow grease. a good flat glass or similar works fine too.
Often overlooked.
No need for glue.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:32 AM   #440
boxerboy81
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R100RS screen fasteners.

Those finicky, single use and expensive plastic rivets are a pita. I always have trouble with them and they're easy to bust.

I have successfully used an easy, cheap, reusable, fast to use and looks proper replacement.

The usual alternative to the oem rivet is a short bolt and nut. They also look good, but can take ages to fit/remove.

My technique uses what I call "xmas tree fasteners". They can be found (in Oz at least) in Car Parts places like SuperCheapAuto.

Here's a well used one.


Here's how they look once installed.


Here's the usual suspects


See the countersunk screw. Use it to flare the copper bush in situ, so that the dash fits snug to the fairing. Buy the size of xmas tree fastener that fits very snug into the bush. They're a push fit, take less than a minute to install into the whole screen, take's less than 2 minutes to remove the screen and can be replaced if they become loose. I've had one or two come loose in many years of use. No problem...the screen still stayed firm, no shaking whatsoever.

If they need replacing, they cost less than $10 and can be found locally. Too easy. I hope someone finds this a helpful minor mod.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:49 AM   #441
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On the /7 with the S screen I have used what used to be called numberplate bolts - black plastic dome head 6 mm bolt about 25 mm long with a white 10 mm plastic nut.

The nuts seem to be self locking so even finger tight they never seem to slacken off,and the dont fret of vibrate either.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:53 AM   #442
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The xmas tree ones just push thru, nothing holding them on the other side. That's why they need to be snug, and a firm push into the hole to install.

Removal involves holding the screen and carefully pushing the screen out so the fasteners back out of the hole. The only care to take is to avoid cracking the screen. It's easy enough.
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:17 PM   #443
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windscreen fasteners

Very nice tech tips. Thanks for those. The original bits are darned expensive (big surprise, eh?)
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:21 AM   #444
Sniper X
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ow bout a part number and place to buy, electronic ignition for a 1978 R100RS?
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:42 AM   #445
Jasper ST4
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Originally Posted by Sniper X
ow bout a part number and place to buy, electronic ignition for a 1978 R100RS?
That was before electronic ignition was available. I am using a Boyer myself, Dyna is the other favorite. I prefer the Boyers because they use an electronic advance and mine has stood the test of time, and miles.
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:52 AM   #446
Sniper X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper ST4
That was before electronic ignition was available. I am using a Boyer myself, Dyna is the other favorite. I prefer the Boyers because they use an electronic advance and mine has stood the test of time, and miles.
I know, I guess I wrote this wrong, should have asked, what AFTERMARKET eletronic ignition should I get? I see the Enduralast one allows use of the stock ignition as a backup if needed....which is totaly cool, but it costs $350.00!
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Old 08-18-2010, 09:01 AM   #447
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The Boyer and Dyna are aftermarket. I'm not familiar with the Enduralast. Are you sure that's just for the ignition?
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:00 PM   #448
Sniper X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper ST4
The Boyer and Dyna are aftermarket. I'm not familiar with the Enduralast. Are you sure that's just for the ignition?
yes, they sell an electronic ignition that works off the crank instead of the points cam and it provides two benifits, one is you keep the points intact and can go to that system in about a minute if the ignition fails, the other is it should last for ever and works off the crank so never needs maintainence like the otheres might because they work off the points cam. Als they make a coolio alternator, also expensive but it outs out like 45 watts. It puts out more at 1500rpm then the stocker puts out total.

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EnD..._p/edl-ign.htm
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:07 PM   #449
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I'm familiar with their alternative alternator. I'm not sure how the ignition thingy would work with the stock one though.

The Boyer does not need maintenance, it does not use the end of the cam for anything but solid mounting their hardware, no mechanical advance.
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:23 PM   #450
Sniper X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper ST4
I'm familiar with their alternative alternator. I'm not sure how the ignition thingy would work with the stock one though.

The Boyer does not need maintenance, it does not use the end of the cam for anything but solid mounting their hardware, no mechanical advance.
Que quanto es de Boyer Brandson?
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