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Old 08-18-2010, 01:24 PM   #451
Sniper X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper ST4
I'm familiar with their alternative alternator. I'm not sure how the ignition thingy would work with the stock one though.

The Boyer does not need maintenance, it does not use the end of the cam for anything but solid mounting their hardware, no mechanical advance.
The Enduralast ignition works with a crank position sensor and a flying magnet set on a wheel, and a black box.
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:44 PM   #452
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Anyone have a set of Mikunis on their R100RS or other airhead?

Mine has them and I was wondering what the benifits are if any.
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:49 PM   #453
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Beater's got them on his r100/7. They work fine, about like the old ones. It has great throttle response and he said he's never had a bogging problem when he cracks open the throttle quickly. I tried to open the throttle fast to force it to bog and it never happened. He's never gone through any great elevation changes with it though.
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Old 08-18-2010, 02:02 PM   #454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
Beater's got them on his r100/7. They work fine, about like the old ones. It has great throttle response and he said he's never had a bogging problem when he cracks open the throttle quickly. I tried to open the throttle fast to force it to bog and it never happened. He's never gone through any great elevation changes with it though.
Cool, they are getting all set up for me so should be perfect. One thing I am good at is jetting if I need to make changes, and you all know how easy it is to make Mikuni jet changes on something with them hanging out in the air like they are on an Airhead!
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:33 PM   #455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper ST4
The Boyer and Dyna are aftermarket. I'm not familiar with the Enduralast.
There's also the Omega system, which also allows the points to stay insitu, just in case.
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:34 AM   #456
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I spoke to a guy who had fitted Mikunis to his 750 race bike - it won some championship in one of the convict states. Ecco or something.
On a full race motor he claimed he was able to get 6/7 horsepower more than Bings, but we can assume that his were correctly set up on a dyno.

He claimed that they came from a 400/ 440? Suzuki trail bike and were pretty spot on as found , with only main jet and needle position changes, but I dont suppose idle, slow or cold running bothered him much.

He still ran points too - no need for fancy ignition curves if you run at a minimum of 2000 revs above the point that the advance is all in .
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Old 08-19-2010, 08:14 AM   #457
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Originally Posted by boxerboy81
There's also the Omega system, which also allows the points to stay insitu, just in case.
So does the enduralast, which uses a crank trigger.
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:36 AM   #458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper X
So does the enduralast, which uses a crank trigger.
... and then there's Silent Hektik which runs directly from the crank.
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:17 PM   #459
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im getting a very small leak from i think the rear main seal about a penny size will it take out the clutch if driven that way ...1977...75/7
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Old 08-20-2010, 05:02 PM   #460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SO CAL CHARLIE
im getting a very small leak from i think the rear main seal about a penny size will it take out the clutch if driven that way ...1977...75/7
The rear main seal of what? And a penny sized what, and when?

Sounds like a great question for the airheads list.
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Old 08-20-2010, 10:46 PM   #461
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From memory the oil from the rear seal runs down and sits on top of the gearbox, and with the solid flywheel on the /7 it wont go straight on the clutch, but it will probabaly get there eventually.

It isnt going to get any better , so plan on fixing it sooner than later, and maybe change to the later breather at the same time.

It may also be coming from the oil pump cover, and some bikes had an O ring around the end of the crank somewhere so probably best to order from someone who knows all the bits you will need.

I was able to borrow a seal fitter from the guy who sold me all the bits and pieces, but I am not certain just how necessary they are.
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Old 08-21-2010, 05:19 AM   #462
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I put my main seal in with a wooden dowel. But that was before I learned it was rocket science. Guess I got lucky, no leaks, even with synthetic oil.
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Old 08-21-2010, 05:59 PM   #463
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Just noticed mention of a hammer impact driver in another thread. Brilliant tool.

Used to use mine often. It's still necessary occasionally for larger or more obdurate fasteners. But some time back I discovered the clutch on my cordless drill gives better control and allows more delicate finessing (less damage). A cordless impact tool, the new style they make for driving deck screws, might be even better, but the regular old standard clutch on your old faithful cordless drill works really well in reverse to impact screws out of corroded threadings. Set the clutch to light action and keep setting it tighter until you're good.
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Old 08-22-2010, 11:35 AM   #464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svejkovat
Just noticed mention of a hammer impact driver in another thread. Brilliant tool.

Used to use mine often. It's still necessary occasionally for larger or more obdurate fasteners. But some time back I discovered the clutch on my cordless drill gives better control and allows more delicate finessing (less damage). A cordless impact tool, the new style they make for driving deck screws, might be even better, but the regular old standard clutch on your old faithful cordless drill works really well in reverse to impact screws out of corroded threadings. Set the clutch to light action and keep setting it tighter until you're good.
Good advice on both tools. After depending on my impact driver for at least 30+ years, I believe you probably can't get an old school bike or any other old school "thing" totally apart without one.
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Old 08-22-2010, 02:23 PM   #465
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I just put some valve grinding thing on end of the screw driver, a hamer punch, and this is what give me best result.
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