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Old 08-22-2010, 04:10 PM   #466
Beemerboff
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I got one to dismantle a Yam DT1 , a long time ago. No other way to get that thing apart.
I like using a torque wrench, so all the fastners were replaced with allen head screws.
Never used it since.
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Old 08-24-2010, 11:25 AM   #467
Eduardo
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Airhead odometer/trip meter

I have a 1986 BMW R80RT and my odometer and trip meter stopped working on Sunday, and I need to know where to start my trouble shooting: The instrument panel, cable or ??? The speedometer and tach are just fine.
Help appreciated! Saludos
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531184
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Old 08-24-2010, 05:54 PM   #468
opposedcyljunkie
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Before anything, try pressing and playing around with the trip reset button. My odo and trip counter got stuck for a long time on a half-engaged reset button.
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:06 PM   #469
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If the reset button offers no satisfaction try this site, best I've seen on repairing a speedo http://www.airheads.org/content/view/160/98/
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:27 PM   #470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opposedcyljunkie
Before anything, try pressing and playing around with the trip reset button. My odo and trip counter got stuck for a long time on a half-engaged reset button.
There might be something to the reset button being the cause, because it quit 4 miles after re-setting when I filled up with gas. I'll try it. Thanks
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Escape the Tundra: Tenth winter in Mexico and Guatemala 2009/2010
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531184
Minnesota to Guatemala 2008/2009 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423949
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:35 PM   #471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RecycledRS
If the reset button offers no satisfaction try this site, best I've seen on repairing a speedo http://www.airheads.org/content/view/160/98/
Nice detailed site. If I do have to break the instrument panel open to fix it, I'll change the light bulb for the speedometer that has been burned out as long as the 5 years I've owned the bike, and was unwilling to mess with it over just a light. Thanks for the info.
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Escape the Tundra: Tenth winter in Mexico and Guatemala 2009/2010
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531184
Minnesota to Guatemala 2008/2009 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423949
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:41 PM   #472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svejkovat
Just noticed mention of a hammer impact driver in another thread. Brilliant tool.

Used to use mine often. It's still necessary occasionally for larger or more obdurate fasteners. But some time back I discovered the clutch on my cordless drill gives better control and allows more delicate finessing (less damage). A cordless impact tool, the new style they make for driving deck screws, might be even better, but the regular old standard clutch on your old faithful cordless drill works really well in reverse to impact screws out of corroded threadings. Set the clutch to light action and keep setting it tighter until you're good.
I use mine most often as an ordinary screwdriver. Can't remember the last time I hammered on it. It's very nice for airhead carb top screws when you don't want to pull the carb and block it up. The internal cam works in reverse--when you twist it some of the force translates into pushing inward on the fastener to keep the tip in engagement. It also has parallel tip strait slot screw tips rather than the crappy wedge tips found on ordinary screwdriver. I only use parallel tips unless I am working with wood screws and don't care.
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:46 PM   #473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eduardo
Nice detailed site. If I do have to break the instrument panel open to fix it, I'll change the light bulb for the speedometer that has been burned out as long as the 5 years I've owned the bike, and was unwilling to mess with it over just a light. Thanks for the info.
The copper on the printed board is fragile. Rock the bulb holder out very gently. if you have some bulb grease (special conductive stuff used to lube the threads on light bulbs) put a tiny amount on the bulb holder contacts. Then clean the copper strips with a fresh (soft) pencil eraser before putting the holder back.
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:59 PM   #474
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Good write up , but by 86 the bikes had a different gauge , and it looks like the only way in to them is to remove the bezel and glass. Does it unscrew or is it a destroy and replace job!

The trip on my G/S is acting up too, doesnt always work, and some times it rewinds the odo back 10,000 kms too .

I have a spare , but it is a angle drive and I think the GS one is straight- anyone know if the drive can be swapped over or if the angle drive can be made to fit.?
Or do I just fit an electronic set up and fix the dud tacho too. Moorespeed has a tsty looking set up----.
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Old 08-25-2010, 06:26 PM   #475
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Beemerboff, if yours is like my ST, you have to peel the aluminum bezel up from the back. Try to dredge up the threads relating to the group buy of odometer reset button grommets a couple of years ago.

The short version as posted in a couple of threads on here - put a sturdy hose clamp around the bezel and tighten snugly. This will keep the bezel round as you pry on it. Work around and around the back side in little steps prying up the edge a little at a time. This will avoid strretching the metal more than minimally. Lift off the glass and bezel.

Complete the needed work.

Reaassembly is the reverse. Tap the back of the bezel back over with a blunt drift working in little steps around and around the circumference with the clamp in place once more to keep the front side and outside edge straight and true.

Worked for me.
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:14 PM   #476
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And if you must replace the glass...

My speedo glass was shattered at one time. The dealer did not have a replacement part for this which makes sense since the unit was not designed to be serviced.

So I set out to find a non glare lens in the appropriate size. You'd think that would be no problem. I checked quite a few speedo repair shops and suppliers. Even marine supplies. Amazing. Nothing. I checked a few glass suppliers. Almost all 'anti glare' glass available is lightly frosted. It is meant to be used right on top of what is being viewed, such as artwork. In an instrument there is usually enough gap between the glass and the dial that frosted glass blurs the readout. BMW uses a beaded, or peened, surface to minimize glare but not blur the readout. Pretty slick. But nobody supplies this stuff.

I ended up getting glass domed lenses, in exactly the right diameter from an online clock repair site. The convex glass is functionally anti glare (it diffuses direct sunlight so that all you see is a little speck) and actually looks nicer than the original.
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:29 PM   #477
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That clock face tip is a great one!
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:20 PM   #478
Beemerboff
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Mark , thanks for the reply - I had feared that was the only way.
I have done it that way before , but not on a weathertight instrument , looks like I will just have to take a bit time and care.
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Old 08-26-2010, 02:50 PM   #479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
I use mine most often as an ordinary screwdriver. Can't remember the last time I hammered on it. It's very nice for airhead carb top screws when you don't want to pull the carb and block it up.
Speaking of those phillips screws on the top of Bing carbs, one of my favorite tips ever was to replace them with screws with an alan head. I've never had any trouble removing them since (I believe this originally came to me from from Keith Patchett).
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Old 08-27-2010, 06:04 AM   #480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishkens
Speaking of those phillips screws on the top of Bing carbs, one of my favorite tips ever was to replace them with screws with an alan head. I've never had any trouble removing them since (I believe this originally came to me from from Keith Patchett).
Works a treat. Cheap and easy. They seem fragile though, so I have antiseized mine (ss) to prevent them sticking and maybe snapping.
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