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Old 01-16-2011, 06:54 PM   #511
Beemerboff
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Remember , the foot goes on the end of U at the end of the stand, not the short lever that is there to get the stand down from behind the exhaust, etc.

Makes a huge difference!
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:21 PM   #512
mark1305
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Yep, took me a while to learn that. Makes a world of difference.
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:31 PM   #513
CloudSurfer
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Leaking forks on an airhead

Just rebuild my forks on my R60/5. I replaced the copper washer inside the slider. I haven't had a chance to ride it in a month or so since the repair. I noticed the other day that the plastic dust covers are slightly leaking fork oil equally on each side. The dust covers appear to be full of oil. I used a modern fork oil (I'm too lazy to walk out to the garage in the cold to find what brand). Any ideas on how to fix it? I'm thinking about some gasket sealer underneath the bolts on the outside. I've heard that modern synthetic oils are too penetrative for the older style seals, etc, so I assume that this could be the problem as well. I'm all ears.
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Old 01-19-2011, 12:11 AM   #514
Caddy82rats
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Under the bolt you've got a aloy washer thiner than the old ones. If torke the bolt too much this leak.
I use a cooper washer inside the fork, an other under the bolt (buy it at shop working for hydraulics)
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:42 AM   #515
vegasrandall
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Muffler stains

Quote:
Originally Posted by camgregus View Post
yeah yeah yeah

I have never had a problem with the latches.

watch the straps.


I wrapped one of those on the muffler then lost it and I am lucky the only damage wast the stain on the pipe i havent scrubbed off.

The stain on me woulda been much worse....
Oven cleaner,apply, ride bike, splooge burns off!
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:45 AM   #516
Redbean
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I got some good used heads for my RT, the cylinders have been bead blasted so look nice.

Need to clean the heads before assembly and have been using gun cleaning brushes and WD40. So far, they are looking better but not quite as pretty as I want them. No better time to clean them when they are off the bike!

Any tips would be appreciated.
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Old 02-12-2011, 11:05 AM   #517
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbean View Post
I got some good used heads for my RT, the cylinders have been bead blasted so look nice.

Need to clean the heads before assembly and have been using gun cleaning brushes and WD40. So far, they are looking better but not quite as pretty as I want them. No better time to clean them when they are off the bike!

Any tips would be appreciated.
If the heads are apart, just glass bead them. If they aren't, keep scrubbing. Try Scotchbrite pads.
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:34 AM   #518
Beemerboff
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The green domestic Scotchbrite works OK, but the brown commercial abrasive grades work better .

I have only ever seen them in a industrial abrasive supply house but someone out there on the net must be selling the stuff.

Electro platers use belt polishers with belts made of it , so a platers supplier should have them too.
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Old 02-13-2011, 08:45 AM   #519
melville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerboff View Post
The green domestic Scotchbrite works OK, but the brown commercial abrasive grades work better .

I have only ever seen them in a industrial abrasive supply house but someone out there on the net must be selling the stuff.

Electro platers use belt polishers with belts made of it , so a platers supplier should have them too.
I've been able to get various grades of ScotchBrite at my local Ace hardware store (paint department). This one is sold as a "metal finishing" unit and it's a snug fit between the jug fins:



Also available are various grades on a number scale roughly equivalent to steel wool, where a #2 ScotchBrite is a little softer than #2 SW, but more abrasive than #1 SW.
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Old 02-13-2011, 09:08 AM   #520
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You can get that same Scotchbrite at O'Reilly auto parts, btw.
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:27 PM   #521
Redbean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka View Post
If the heads are apart, just glass bead them. If they aren't, keep scrubbing. Try Scotchbrite pads.
The heads still have the valves in them, using gun cleaning brushes and now using Scotchbrite pad for finishing. Cotton swabs and engine degreaser for those hard to reach areas.
They are looking pretty good now, not ready for the concourse but looking good.

The heads I'm cleaning were sold to me are supposed to have only 6K miles on them and judging by the amount of carbon build up on the valves etc. that looks about right. As they are from a '81 model they certainly have the "bad" valve seats. The heads they are replacing are 83' model and have about 150K miles on them. They had run out of valve adjustment and appear to be warped.

Should I try to remove the carbon deposits on the valves and the dome of the heads? If so, how is this done?

Thanks!
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Old 02-13-2011, 04:52 PM   #522
boxerboy81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbean View Post
Should I try to remove the carbon deposits on the valves and the dome of the heads? If so, how is this done?

Thanks!
Why not, as it's relatively easy with the bits off. Soak in undiluted simple green, it'll wipe off the following day.



..
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Old 02-14-2011, 02:04 AM   #523
Beemerboff
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I cant even get simple green at my local hardware store, never mind red Scotchbrite.

And they cant seem to get the prices right either, but funnily enough the mistakes are always in their favor.

I hope the new Woolies/ Lowes? stores give the business a bit of a shake up - they need it.
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Old 02-14-2011, 04:49 AM   #524
boxerboy81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerboff View Post
I cant even get simple green at my local hardware store, never mind red Scotchbrite.

And they cant seem to get the prices right either, but funnily enough the mistakes are always in their favor.

I hope the new Woolies/ Lowes? stores give the business a bit of a shake up - they need it.
Try Bunnings. They have Simple Green.



..
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:07 AM   #525
H96669
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ScotchBrite No 46, available at most restaurant equipment/janitorial supply stores.

Great on carbon and just the right thickness/grit to get in between them fins.

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