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Old 12-29-2011, 02:20 PM   #631
Redbean
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Trying to finish top end job on my '83 R100RT.

Bought a pair of used heads, had them checked out, new gaskets, rings etc, everything bolted up and ready for exhaust mount.

Noticed that the new to me heads have those air pollution inserts in the exhaust ports, ordered the plugs to replace the inserts and soaked the inserts in Kroil.

Can't get them out without using enough torque that I know it's going to strip the threads when they come out.

Any suggestions on a suitable cap to screw on to the inserts to seal them rather than trying to muscle them out without stripping the threads?
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:08 AM   #632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W8EJO View Post
For those needing a quick/dirty/inelegant replacement for your R75/7 R80 R80RT R100RS R100S R100CS R100RS R100R R100GS gas cap; NAPA Part # 703-1686 will fit for 8 bucks. They also have a locking version.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...=1&Dn=0&D=703-
1686&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

is it vented ? yep its ugly but a good fast replacement
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:12 AM   #633
coastranger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbean View Post
Trying to finish top end job on my '83 R100RT.

Bought a pair of used heads, had them checked out, new gaskets, rings etc, everything bolted up and ready for exhaust mount.

Noticed that the new to me heads have those air pollution inserts in the exhaust ports, ordered the plugs to replace the inserts and soaked the inserts in Kroil.

Can't get them out without using enough torque that I know it's going to strip the threads when they come out.

Any suggestions on a suitable cap to screw on to the inserts to seal them rather than trying to muscle them out without stripping the threads?

did you do a search, I just read this the a week ago at either this forum or BMWOA of someone with same issue and he/she lists what cap they found worked
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:28 AM   #634
Wirespokes
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Are you in europe? Can't tell where you're from...

Here in the states I've gotten brass plumbing caps that work. The size is close and so are the threads, though they're not metric - close enough they have a bit of an interference fit and don't fall off (the brass reforms fairly easily). I seem to recall them being 5/8". Any good hardware store has them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbean View Post
Any suggestions on a suitable cap to screw on to the inserts to seal them rather than trying to muscle them out without stripping the threads?
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:40 AM   #635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coastranger View Post
did you do a search, I just read this the a week ago at either this forum or BMWOA of someone with same issue and he/she lists what cap they found worked
Have been looking for some time now the cap should be 16mm X 1.5 thread pitch in brass, can't find them.
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:44 AM   #636
Redbean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes View Post
Are you in europe? Can't tell where you're from...

Here in the states I've gotten brass plumbing caps that work. The size is close and so are the threads, though they're not metric - close enough they have a bit of an interference fit and don't fall off (the brass reforms fairly easily). I seem to recall them being 5/8". Any good hardware store has them.
I am in Louisiana.

Thanks, I'll give them a try if I can find them
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:35 AM   #637
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Here's the thread you're looking for

I ordered Wirewrkr's new set for taking care of this problem. Will let you know how things work out with them. Read the whole thread for lots of good ideas. I couldn't get those pesky adapter inserts out initially either. I sprayed them with "Blaster" a couple of times. They went from being immovable to almost finger tight after 24 hours. Amazing stuff.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=750553




Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbean View Post
Have been looking for some time now the cap should be 16mm X 1.5 thread pitch in brass, can't find them.
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Old 12-31-2011, 08:30 AM   #638
Redbean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WU7X View Post
I ordered Wirewrkr's new set for taking care of this problem. Will let you know how things work out with them. Read the whole thread for lots of good ideas. I couldn't get those pesky adapter inserts out initially either. I sprayed them with "Blaster" a couple of times. They went from being immovable to almost finger tight after 24 hours. Amazing stuff.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=750553

Thanks!

I saved the link and off to the srore for some PB Blaster.
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:50 AM   #639
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They are oilhead sump plugs available at dealers. Use the same aluminum crush ring, some anti-seize, and the same torque as for the sump. It works every time.
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:55 PM   #640
Kai Ju
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Handlebar Alignment

I just posted this over in the Garage Section, but felt that it belongs here as well.
Easy way to get your bars back where they came from.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=759025
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:12 PM   #641
Kai Ju
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R90S Windshield Rivet Installation Tool

Anybody that has ever had the pleasure of installing the OEM rivets knows how much fun they can be.
Since I used to have to do this at work I quickly tired of first bending , then breaking the rivet while trying to push it in all the way.
Here is the tool I came up with. Sorry I can't show it in action but I don't have any of the rivets handy right now, or an R90S for that matter.
Anyway, the idea is to slide the rivet into place in the fairing, then place the tool over the exposed pin. Simply push the pin in until the tool stops flush with the now flush rivet. Make sure you're perpendicular to the rivet hole as you push the tool town.
Here are a couple of pics of the tool, made from one of those free screwdrivers, a ball point pen spring and a suitable piece of brass tubing.
The tubing slides up along the shank as you push the pin in and keeps the pin on the straight and narrow.
All you have to do is cut the shank the same length as the brass tubing with the spring compressed fully. Make sure that the exposed pin on the rivet fits into the tubing completely with the spring at full extension.
I hope this makes sense, if not I'll see if I can locate a rivet and do a show and tell.
Unless somebody in or near Long Beach CA needs to install some rivets in the near future



Brass tubing and spring next to screwdriver.



Brass tubing and spring on the screwdriver.



Brass tubing and spring fully compressed, showing the shank.

Kai Ju screwed with this post 01-24-2012 at 07:49 PM
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:05 PM   #642
Redbean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
Anybody that has ever had the pleasure of installing the OEM rivets knows how much fun they can be.
Since I used to have to do this at work I quickly tired of first bending , then breaking the rivet while trying to push it in all the way.
Here is the tool I came up with. Sorry I can't show it in action but I don't have any of the rivets handy right now, or an R90S for that matter.
Anyway, the idea is to slide the rivet into place in the fairing, then place the tool over the exposed pin. Simply push the pin in until the tool stops flush with the now flush rivet. Make sure you're perpendicular to the rivet hole as you push the tool town.
Here are a couple of pics of the tool, made from one of those free screwdrivers, a ball point pen spring and a suitable piece of brass tubing.
The tubing slides up along the shank as you push the pin in and keeps the pin on the straight and narrow.
All you have to do is cut the shank the same length as the brass tubing with the spring compressed fully. Make sure that the exposed pin on the rivet fits into the tubing completely with the spring at full extension.
I hope this makes sense, if not I'll see if I can locate a rivet and do a show and tell.
Unless somebody in or near Long Beach CA needs to install some rivets in the near future



Brass tubing and spring next to screwdriver.



Brass tubing and spring on the screwdriver.



Brass tubing and spring fully compressed, showing the shank.
Timely post for me anyway, as I have my top end job completed and my RT is running pretty well now.

My next step is to install new (to me) forward fairing bracket and dashboard. The dashboard appears to be riveted to the fairing or something. Don't know as I have not removed enough to see exactly how all that is put together.

Love to see your tool in action.

Redbean screwed with this post 01-28-2012 at 08:27 PM
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:28 PM   #643
Kai Ju
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbean View Post
Timely post for me anyway, as I have my top end job completed and my RT is running pretty well now.

My next step is to install new (to me) forward fairing bracket and dashboard. The dashboard appears to be riveted to the fairing or something. Don't know as I have not removed enough to see exactly how all that is put together.

Love to see your tool in action.
There are two types of rivets. The copper rivets that hold the dash to the fairing, and the plastic ones that hold the windscreen to the fairing by going through the copper ones, IIRC.
The tool is for the plastic ones. BMW has a special tool for the copper rivets, which I sadly do not have, sorry.
The tool consists of two anvils, one of which supports the shaped portion of the rivet while the other side screws down onto the unshaped portion, shaping it in the process. When it's properly shaped it looks like one of those grommets used to secure tarps with and holds the dash to the fairing.
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:21 AM   #644
boxerboy81
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Here are the usual options for the R100RS fairing. I'm unsure if this applies at all to the RT.



#1 is my preferred option. Cheap, 30 second install and removal, reusuable, sturdy and they do the job looking like they should be there. They're an autoupholstery fastener available from car shops and just push straight in. I've used them for years.

#2 is a common choice. Nut and bolt. Tedious, takes forever to install/remove, can crack the screen, but doesn't need the copper rivets.

#3 is oem. Tedious little sucker unless you really know how, or have the right tool. Not cheap for what they are, and from BMW dealers/suppliers only I'm guessing.

The copper rivet can be installed and flared on the bike using a countersunk bolt/nut like shown. Easy as pie.
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:02 AM   #645
Zodiac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxerboy81 View Post
Here are the usual options for the R100RS fairing. I'm unsure if this applies at all to the RT.



#1 is my preferred option. Cheap, 30 second install and removal, reusuable, sturdy and they do the job looking like they should be there. They're an autoupholstery fastener available from car shops and just push straight in. I've used them for years.

#2 is a common choice. Nut and bolt. Tedious, takes forever to install/remove, can crack the screen, but doesn't need the copper rivets.

#3 is oem. Tedious little sucker unless you really know how, or have the right tool. Not cheap for what they are, and from BMW dealers/suppliers only I'm guessing.

The copper rivet can be installed and flared on the bike using a countersunk bolt/nut like shown. Easy as pie.
the stock rivets are crap. I used same exact (looking) rivets from McMaster Carr catalog, about a 1/3 of price of stock, and 10x easier to use with a simple rivet gun.

part # 90219A330 http://www.mcmaster.com/ pack of 20 4$

(thanks Rapid Dog)
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