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Old 09-07-2007, 02:16 PM   #121
petefromberkeley
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Location: Berkeley, CA
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If you are going into a water crossing, a problem is that you are almost always going down hill when you hit the water. The initial splash goes right into the air intake snorkles and soaks your air filter leaving you in a bad way (if you have a paper air filter it can collapse which is why dirt bike guys don't use them).

Take two half liter water bottles and cut the tops off of them and put them over the snorkes. The carbs get plenty of air, but that first big splash doesn't drown the bike.
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:38 AM   #122
Huzband
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Three are better than two

For those that use the double reserve trick, try this instead.

1) Run with only one petcock "ON"
2) When that one sputters, turn the other petcock to "ON" (1st reserve)
3) At the next sputter, turn the FIRST petcock to "Res" ( 2nd reserve)
4) Lastly, you turn the SECOND petcock to "Res" (3rd reserve)

Now, you must know, & THIS IS IMPORTANT, 3rd reserve isn't going to get you real far. About the best I ever did with my '75 R75 with a small tank, was about 10-12 miles. Much more than that, & you'll be draining pre-mix from the trials bike you're pulling on the trailer. (I'm not kidding.) DAMHIK.

Anyway, it's a great way to maximize your range, without wondering if you're about to run dry.
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Old 12-07-2007, 08:26 AM   #123
Grider Pirate
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Location: LV, NV
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K&N Filters - maybe 205

Quote:
Originally Posted by opposedcyljunkie
i just caught this comment on the k&n air filter. my 1-month old pd has, in fact, a k&n filter installed. should i lose it and why?

i'm still on the steep learning curve with my airhead and i noticed that my plugs are on the whitish side than i'd like. no amount of tweaking, cleaning, etc. on the carbs would make them the light coffee-brown color i want. the air filter is well-oiled (I made sure of that when i took delivery of the bike), and I still get this same, lean-burning color on my plugs. is the k&n too open? anyone know and can share any bad experiences in using them?
Jetting considerations aside, our motorpool gets oil analysis on every oil change. Someone once had the bright idea of saving money on air filters by going to the serviceable K&N's, the next cycle of oil analysis showed that silicates (grindy sandy bits) had skyrocketed. They went back to stock filters.
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Old 12-11-2007, 07:18 PM   #124
g r a n t
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other link

I apologize if this is a repeat in the forum (I couldn't get through allllll the appreciated tips), but for those who have not seen this link, it's a great resource for airheads www.boxerworks.com. I hope it is OK to post other sites here? Cheers.
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Old 12-11-2007, 07:25 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g r a n t
I apologize if this is a repeat in the forum (I couldn't get through allllll the appreciated tips), but for those who have not seen this link, it's a great resource for airheads www.boxerworks.com. I hope it is OK to post other sites here? Cheers.
Good deal, Grant. Matt is a nice guy.. I got a used left side handlebar clutch perch from him when I couldnt find one through other channels. He even sent me the little triangular bit that keep the thing from breaking in the first place.

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Old 01-09-2008, 02:21 PM   #126
motoboyvfr
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Greasy Nipple

Quote:
Originally Posted by petefromberkeley
I wrap that boot with electrical tape even if it is brand new. Why take chances? And you dont even realy see the electrical tape if you do a neat job.
I fill that nipple with Mobil 1 waterproof grease and wipe off the excess after pressing it into place. The grease preserves the rubber and keeps unwanted chesmo out of the tranny.
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Old 03-23-2008, 09:24 AM   #127
phactory
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Heh heh, he said nipple!!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoboyvfr
I fill that nipple with Mobil 1 waterproof grease and wipe off the excess after pressing it into place. The grease preserves the rubber and keeps unwanted chesmo out of the tranny.
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:22 PM   #128
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You Sled Dogs suck.





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Old 04-03-2008, 08:54 AM   #129
phactory
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WE NEVER SAID THAT WE DIDN'T SUCK!!!

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Old 04-06-2008, 04:51 AM   #130
Cigars&Scotch
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If you have an electric tach and it stops working, check your fuses first!!!

My tach on my PD just decided to stop working. After I ripped the dash apart and found nothing, I whipped out my trusty Simpson meter and found no voltage at the tach. Bike still ran so the coil and ignition was getting juice.

Replaced the second fuse, the 7.5 amp one and bingo, tach all better.
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Old 04-06-2008, 08:23 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodTill
If you have an electric tach and it stops working, check your fuses first!!!

My tach on my PD just decided to stop working. After I ripped the dash apart and found nothing, I whipped out my trusty Simpson meter and found no voltage at the tach. Bike still ran so the coil and ignition was getting juice.

Replaced the second fuse, the 7.5 amp one and bingo, tach all better.
cool! - but that always begs the question to me of why it blew in the first place
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:29 PM   #132
Wirespokes
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Something may have caused it to blow - but standard practice is to replace the fuse. If it then blows again, then find what's causing it. Fuses, like light bulbs, don't last forever and it's a good chance IT was the failure.
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:00 AM   #133
Cigars&Scotch
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It was the failure. When I put the battery box and fuse holder all back together after reinstalling my tranny, I had an issue with my power plug. So I took out the fuses to check them out. I must have had a bad 7.5 amp spare fuse in the rack and put that one back in instead of the good on.

When everything was buttoned up and I started the bike, that's when I noticed the tach was out. So of course since the bike was just in peices I started to back trace my steps but forgot about the fuse box issue.

I mean if the bike was running and everything else that I had check at that point worked, it was a little bit of head scratching.

Having spent 25 years in the phone company working in the field taught my a little about electrical trouble shooting. Took out the old trusty Simpson analog meter, you know the one with the big dial and hugh needle the has 10,000 numbers under it, yea I know how to read that thing.

I found out that I was getting a signal but no power to the tach, then I remembered about the fuse issue. I started to replace the 3 fuses in the holder and tach came back.

That 1.00 fuse saved me $267.oo for a new tach.
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Old 04-24-2008, 01:59 PM   #134
FUTURE
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I spent yesterday finding out how to and not to pull the front end down pn ,y R100LT. I had th replace both fork seals. First thing you do not need to spend $80 on a huge shifter to undo the top fork nuts. I bought one thinking I had to undo those nuts. Could not get them to move at all.

Found out you undo the fork sliders from the bottom via a hex bolt that is exposed after the axle is taken out. Drained the oil out of the forks. Then the sliders slip off. Which is how I was told it was done on another forum but didn't do this to start with.

Old seals came out real easy. New ones after a wee bit of time in the freezer were coaxed into place with a hammer and a small block of wood. I have 2 blocks of wood that I could not do with out. They are used for everything from holding wheels in place on the bike while taking the axle out to being used to knock things into place.

The handlebars had to be dropped out of the way to allow access to the hex bolt at the top of the forks. This then allows you pour the fork oil in.

Cleaned the fork legs up. Started to put it all back together. Got to refilling the forks and as I did this I noticed that oil was appearing on the concrete floor. The drain bolts had been already been put back in. The left one was leaking. Took the bolt out and found that some of the thread had been damaged. Found another bolt and not no drip.

Once everything was back together and I took the bike off the main stand straight away I noticed a difference. The front end felt so much firmer and didn’t droop so much with the weight of the fairing. Sitting on the bike the front end also feels much better.

The old oil that came out of a grey colour. The new oil that went in was a reddish clear in colour.
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Old 04-25-2008, 05:34 AM   #135
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I filled the LT up today with Unleaded. But it has 10% Ethanol in it. Is this ok to run in my BM?
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