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Old 11-04-2006, 07:41 AM   #16
FriedDuck
Why die all tensed up?
 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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When I've had to drill something precisely like this using a forstner bit made a huge difference. You'll get a very clean hole with little tear-out or deformation. (Yeah, I see the joke, it's just too easy.) I'd still back it with some wood, obviously...

--Jeff
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:16 AM   #17
Reformed DucFlogger
Inventor Of The Wheel Mk2
 
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Cutting Holes

A good way to cut nice crisp holes is to take copper plumbing pipe of the correct diameter, sharpen one end on a grinder and go to town against a hardwood block (harder the better as pine, etc might deform just enough to deform the back side of the hole.. Also, carpentry shops like www.leevalley.com or places who cater to folks who do heavy leather/saddle work will sell punch kits.
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Old 11-04-2006, 11:55 AM   #18
Beljum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu
Sometimes the sealers will make the gasket "walk". Not always, but I found that out the hard way once before a race....
Stu
This is true...altough I understand the desire to use sealer in this case (no pun intended!).
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Old 11-05-2006, 02:05 PM   #19
laramie LC4 OP
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Location: Tucson, Az
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well, i am cautiously optimistic.....

the engine is in the bike and runs. i had a few issues (all my own fault) that kept me from having it running yesterday. so this morning i got up (little girls sick, so i didnt ride today ) and started to fix my screw-up.

the good news is, the base gasket is working great! no leaks, no weeping, no nothing. it looks like it should hopefully hold for a while. or at least it better...

as for the head gasket, thats another issue. i used that super dupper, triple layered Cometics gasket again and im not quite sure what to think about it. at first i noticed a few small areas of weeping, this made me less than happy. i instantly started looking for the "for sale" sign to put on the bike. but i decided to give it chance and let the bike warm up, then cool down, then warm up, then cool down, then i went for a ride, and let it cool down again. each time the weeping got less and less, and now seems to have stopped all together. im not sure if this is a "cometic" thing or what, but it better hold! i dont smell any coolant being burnt so i dont think im getting anything blowing by in the engine. i also dont see any sign of coolant in the oil, so once again cross your fingers and wish me luck.

i think my plan is going to be, let the bike sit until the ride in Jan and then ride the piss out of it. if it makes it threw those 3 days, then ill keep it. if not, well......i think you know the answer.

laters,

laramie
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Old 11-05-2006, 05:06 PM   #20
Stu
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Head Gasket

Don't forget to retorque the head bolts especially now that it has been thru a few heating/cooling cycles. If everything is correctly torqued it should hold. BTW, I always purchase OEM gaskets and do not have difficulty.
Good luck and have fun on your Jan ride! (I hope I can come down for it....)
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Old 11-05-2006, 05:14 PM   #21
laramie LC4 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu
Don't forget to retorque the head bolts especially now that it has been thru a few heating/cooling cycles. If everything is correctly torqued it should hold.
easier said than done. there is no way to access 2 of the head bolts without removing the rocker cover, which is a pain in the arse.

i think its going to be OK, but i guess only time will tell. so ill cross my fingers and see what happens.

on another note, hopefully you can make it in Jan. it promises to be a wild ride with some pretty awesome terrain. much more technical than the last one. looks like there will be a good portion of single track every day. still not finalized but if i got anything to say about it (which i do, im trail bossing the thing) we will be doing some great high speed, watch your ass, cactus infested, single track. maybe even doing the national harescramble loop that i raced last Jan.

laters,

laramie :cheers:
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:25 PM   #22
bmwktmbill
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Coming to a KTM from a BMW airhead I wondered about retorquing the head. With BMW they suggest checking it with every valve set, I think we did it every 10K miles or so. I know it isn't the right way but we never loosened the head bolt nuts, just checked torque tightness. Occasionally one would take a little.
With a fresh motor, if it was me I would re tighten the ones I could get at at the very least and maybe bite the bullet and get at them all.

Another thing we did with Beemers after torquing the head on a rebuilt engine was to let it sit over night and check torque a second time in the morning. The bolts always took more...always.
And we never leaked, never.
Knock on wood.

Bill in Tomahawk, WI
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:03 AM   #23
meat popsicle
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photos... should I shut up yet?
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Old 11-30-2009, 02:11 PM   #24
warewolf
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Some further information...

Thanks Laramie, I read this with interest before tackling my own base gasket leak. Well, err, the bike's one See Fixing the 640 base gasket, and more...

Quote:
Originally Posted by laramie LC4
lets start with the metal one, part number 58630035200.

this one must be for the 625 or newer LC4's, because it doesnt fit either. well, let me clarify that, the gasket fits well, but doesnt have the proper holes for the metal dowels that hold the cylinder into the cases.
Okay, my bike is a 2005 Adventure (EU/AU). As you can see from the picture, it has small base dowels:



Here's the cylinder base, showing the stain from the OEM paper gasket - Part num *586.30.035.100, CYL. BASE GASKET 0,5MM 05 - including the area that split then leaked (circled).



And finally, here's the superseding metal base gasket - Part num 586.30.035.200 CYL. BASE GASKET 0,5MM M.SICKE - overlaid on the cylinder base. Pretty good match for a newer bike. This gasket has a "made in USA" sticker on the package, so is probably the Cometic gasket.



The KTM repair manual advises putting sealant around the camchain tunnel area.

Mine failed because the paper gasket walked out of the join, and split. Can't tell which order those two things happened! But I guess the metal gasket won't suffer the same type of failure.
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KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
The Stable

warewolf screwed with this post 04-21-2010 at 01:43 AM Reason: Smaller images, back-link.
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Old 11-30-2009, 03:15 PM   #25
laramie LC4 OP
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looking at the pics i would agree, that is a Cometic gasket. i wish i could get one to fit correctly because my paper one is already leaking again. next time i think the surfaces are going to have to be re-done to match them back up. this is frankly just ridiculous to have to replace such a basic, fundamental gasket so often. granted all it really does is make a mess and looks really bad. the oil loss is nominal and if you check often, isnt really a big deal. im just one of those people though that hate leaks. i think the only reason i havent torn it back apart again is that im sick and tired of dealing with it. its cheaper and easier for me to just wash the bike and pretend nothing is wrong.......

good luck with yours.

laramie
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Old 11-30-2009, 03:58 PM   #26
warewolf
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Ta.

Sounds like you might be best to make the metal gasket fit. Mine was a weep for quite a while, sometimes staying dry for a couple of days after a clean. Then it turned into a gusher in a handful of km.
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KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
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Old 11-30-2009, 04:41 PM   #27
D.T.
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Those MLS gaskets are the sh#t. I just replaced the base on my XT, used a Viton O-ring instead of the Buna-N stocker. Then I used anaerobic sealant on both sides of the fiber gasket to hold it in place. VERY thin on the sealant. Hopefully I will die before it leaks again. I did it on the cheap instead of the MLS gasket though.

The Cometic head gasket didn't fit quite right, so I trimmed it with a scissors. Saved $50 bucks though.

Man, I'm a hack!
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Old 11-30-2009, 05:29 PM   #28
cyclewizard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.T.
Those MLS gaskets are the sh#t. I just replaced the base on my XT, used a Viton O-ring instead of the Buna-N stocker. Then I used anaerobic sealant on both sides of the fiber gasket to hold it in place. VERY thin on the sealant. Hopefully I will die before it leaks again. I did it on the cheap instead of the MLS gasket though.

The Cometic head gasket didn't fit quite right, so I trimmed it with a scissors. Saved $50 bucks though.

Man, I'm a hack!
I hope that gasket never leaks, we will miss you around here D.T.
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