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Old 04-06-2014, 09:32 AM   #1
pvt joker OP
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Cucamonga
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New to me 2007 525 exc could use some suggestions

Picked up this 525 a couple weeks ago. It was horribly lean so I rejetted and mod'ed the acp and now it starts and runs a lot better. Still in the middle of changing out the leaky countershaft seal, and removing the smog valve & tubing.

I've got the suspension out being serviced and lowered a bit. Since I'm lowering the suspension, I should probably swap out the plastic skidplate for something a little sturdier. Is there a skidplate the protects well and still has access to change the oil?

Any other tips or suggestions for the bike are appreciated.





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Old 04-06-2014, 09:49 AM   #2
Foot dragger
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That seat is gonna be a killer cut down like that,they arent good stock really.

I would just ride it and see what you think it needs,Im doing the same to an 06 525 I just got plated. Lowering them has to be done right or can make em handle wonky.
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Old 04-07-2014, 06:43 PM   #3
ztrab
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kibble white

I have owed three 06 EXC's, still have two. When you wear the valves out - around 130 hours, you'll know because they sink so far into the seat you can no lodger adjust the rocker clearance, I'd replace them with KW stainless. I did it on both my current bikes and the interval is 4-5 K miles, pretty much like my ole XR 650 R. Makes a 2,000 mile baja ride a snap, one oil change and good to go. FWIW, when I send my head out, i put a new piston and rings while I had the motor apart - the builder said my motor look very good - I use Rotella diesel oil, change it every 500-500 miles, clean the stainless steel oil filters every other change, unless I'm in Baja, I'll stretch it to 1K - RFS motor is quite stout.
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Old 04-07-2014, 06:48 PM   #4
Foot dragger
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The valve replacement thing seems kinda variable,some guys go 400 hours,some go 130 hours,if the engine gets revved hard they wear quicker Ive heard.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:03 PM   #5
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
The valve replacement thing seems kinda variable,some guys go 400 hours,some go 130 hours,if the engine gets revved hard they wear quicker Ive heard.
Yup, it's definitely dependent on how hard the bike is run. 450 hrs on my last one, still had adjustment left but they were due.
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:55 PM   #6
Foot dragger
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Yup, it's definitely dependent on how hard the bike is run. 450 hrs on my last one, still had adjustment left but they were due.
Mine will last a while,every chance I get the 300 goes out but the 525 looks great sitting there.
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:51 PM   #7
DrKayak
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I run the Flatlands racing skid plate. Great protection but a bit of a pain to get off for oil changes. I run a cut down seat like that too for hard technical terrain where getting a foot down may be the difference in going over a cliff.
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:57 PM   #8
firecrotch
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My advice? Don't ever sell it like I did. I bought mine new and barely put 1000 miles on mine and sold it. I am still pissed I did that.
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Old 04-13-2014, 07:19 AM   #9
bryantjt
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I have an 06 450 EXC and it has an aluminum plate, I think it's an Enduro Engineering skid but I'm not sure, it was on it when I bought it. 2 bolts in the rear into the frame and 2 frame clips up front. It has holes to access the drain plug and the lower screen but it still makes a mess. I just drop the pan for an oil change, it makes it much cleaner and easier to tell if there is an oil leak vs. oil dripping off the pan.

How tall are you and how far are you lowering it? Mine is factory height and I'm 5'-6" with a 30" jeans inseam (actually a little long on me, probably more like 29-29.5") and I can either get one foot down or both toes. I'm also about 220 when in full ATGATT and my springs are heavier than stock, but one or 2 rates softer than I really should have. I'm only a casual rider though so I haven't upped the rates.


I would look at the plastic guard that wraps around the swingarm. At 2000 miles mine had eaten through and was starting to gouge the swingarm, even with factory 14/50 gearing. The chain rollers were also toast and just flopping on their shafts.

Make sure to look up proper chain tension settings as well, it will look like it should fall off when its set right since they have so much travel. If your shock is still off, set your chain tension, then run the swingarm through its stroke and look for tight spots.

Go easy on the oil screen bolts unless they have been upgraded to hex head as they are easy to over tighten and then split if they are still socket head.

If it has a non OEM front sprocket, even a new CS seal might leak due to the cupped washer not supplying enough pressure. I have a Dirt Tricks washer on back order at www.rockymountainatv.com which is supposed to help with this, as well as lasting longer than the OEM.


Keep an eye on the aluminum cage on the rear lower chain guide, mine got whacked by a rock and bent, forcing the guide into the chain. I ended up cutting the lower part of the frame out and just leaving the plastic and the plastic went back to shape on its own.


Since it is already so far apart you may as well drain the coolant and pull the radiators to do your first valve check/adjustment. That will give you lots of room to work. After the first one you can do it without taking the radiators off, just take out the bolts so you can push them out of the way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWS9RuEQzc8


When the valve adjuster gets to about 1 turn left (set proper clearance, then loosen until they lightly top out on the rocker) the valves are done. If you continue to run and adjust them beyond this point, the swivel cup on the adjuster won't have enough room to pivot and may pop off and end up causing major damage.

The oil sight glass is like a magic 8 ball, sometimes it reads, sometimes it doesn't. When changing the oil, just buy a measuring cup and fill it with the exact amount required. 1.2 LITERS if you change the filters too, or 1 LITER if you only drop the oil.


There is a wealth of info at www.ktmtalk.com if you join. If you use free e-mail (Hotmail, Gmail etc) you will have to contact the admin first or your registration will get bounced.
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Old 04-13-2014, 07:24 AM   #10
bryantjt
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I forgot to add that you should "work" the suspension adjusters regularly. Mine were seized when I bought it. Even if you have the settings totally dialed for you, run the clickers in and out to keep them free. My lower shock clicker had to be drilled out and the adjusting rod was toast. A typical $200 cleaning and rebuild turned into $460 due to needing new parts and the extra labor.
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:09 AM   #11
Foot dragger
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Originally Posted by firecrotch View Post
my advice? Don't ever sell it like i did. I bought mine new and barely put 1000 miles on mine and sold it. I am still pissed i did that.
+1.
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:46 PM   #12
pvt joker OP
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Thanks for the great advice and what to watch out for. I haven't checked the valves yet but I've gone through the carb, countershaft sprocket, cleaned up the rear fender/turnsignals and changed out the oil & checked all the screens. It starts and runs very now that I've got it jetted well, thanks to ridefreak.

I lowered the front 1" and the rear about 1.25" approximately. I'm 5'8" with about 29" inseam and it fits pretty good. Riding this weekend there were a couple times that the lower seat & bike were just what I need to keep upright. Its sitting pretty good right now and I may not need to mod the kickstand. I still need to dial in my sag and suspension settings. Haven't settled on a skidplate yet.

I like it even more than I thought I would and don't plan to sell it anytime soon.
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:37 PM   #13
RideFreak
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Glad to help!

I'm a big fan of the EE low/soft seats, I have them on 2 KTMs and they make all the difference when it comes to tough riding, they're still skinny like the stocker but the foam is better and they're a little more rounded. With the softer foam you sink in a little 3/4~1" so the seat height is lowered by about the same amount. Pretty cheap too!
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