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Old 06-29-2013, 08:11 AM   #5761
snooker
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Loveland, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post

You must have the shock offset away from the exhaust, due to the piggyback. BOTH on the lower and upper mounts (just rotate the eyelet until they align). That has to be your problem then. Yes it bottomed out still, I even worked with Ted Porter to try stiffer springs. Something was wrong with it from day 1 as my Yacugar is awesome now. Maybe I should put a nut on the lower bolt? kidding.

Still don't see your link to pics in that thread post. Doesn't matter if this fixes it!
So did this fix your offset problem with the Wilbers?????
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:17 AM   #5762
snooker
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Originally Posted by SchillerM View Post
You can order custom shocks from wilbers that lower the bike up to I think 75mm... Is it possible its a shorter than stock one? Relieve the weight off the rear wheel and measure eye-eye and that should tell you (forget stock off hand)

Matt
Yes the shock length is shorter (the internal rod is shorter and hence overall mounting length). There is a multiplying factor due to the geometry so if you reduce the shock length by X then the wheel travel reduces by X * Factor. I know for wheel travel the Factor is 3.44, and for measurements at the seat for seat height it is almost identical I have estimated (though it seems like it should be tiny bit less?)... Nonetheless, as an example a 10mm shorter shock results in (10mm * 3.44 = 34.4mm, or 1.35") shorter height at the wheel (and almost the same at the seat). This is all for the bike raised with the rear wheel off the ground. Don't forget your actual seat height depends on the sag, which is determined by the shock setup (spring rate, etc).

So with my estimates, if Wilbers says a shock lowers the seat height by 75mm then I think the shock is shorter by: 75mm / 3.44 = 21.8mm. You lose a lot of wheel travel of course so if you go off road you better stay on the mellow stuff (DAMHIK).

You can order custom shock builds with shorter rod lengths on other brands too. In the US, for Wilbers, HyperPro, and Yacugar I really like Ted Porter at Beemershop.com in Santa Cruz, CA... great service. His website is old, he is the sole US distributor for Yacugar as well, and I just switched from my Wilbers to a Yac and it works great - finally!

OK more info than you wanted to know but the point is... If you are serious about lowering (or raising or maximizing wheel travel and keeping the seat height at a reasonable level) and buying a new shock, you can specify the length you want up front when it is custom built initially, rather than spending more $$ later. See my website (in my sig) for some more ideas on length calculations on the X bikes.

There are a lot of Ohlins shock users on this thread, I'm sure they can be shortened as well but don't know who to recommend.
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snooker screwed with this post 06-29-2013 at 08:50 AM
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:21 PM   #5763
SchillerM
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Clutch

What does the clutch lever sensor do? Since adjustable levers seem to be difficult to find for clutch I was wondering about replacing the whole perch. That would mean no sensor though... But I am confused on what it would even do on such a "dumb" bike..

?

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Old 07-01-2013, 09:17 PM   #5764
tbarstow
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Location: Viva Lost Wages!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchillerM View Post
What does the clutch lever sensor do? Since adjustable levers seem to be difficult to find for clutch I was wondering about replacing the whole perch. That would mean no sensor though... But I am confused on what it would even do on such a "dumb" bike..

?

Matt
You won't be able to start the bike unless it is in neutral.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:19 PM   #5765
Erik RS
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But it's easily jumpered
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:34 PM   #5766
john_aero
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done bit work to bike last night

still cant sort out the headder hitting shock





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Old 07-02-2013, 12:05 AM   #5767
Pine Sol
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Location: in transit, without a destination...
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have been experimenting, wanted to lower my foot pegs, i stand 6'10", and standing on the pegs even with my bars raised 2" with Rox risers still wasnt enough.

first i installed scheffelmeiers' skid plate, as i needed to know, how far down i could go. i clamped a straight edge across the back of the skid plate and then measured how much more i could extend my hard parts, sketched out a design, first made it out of 10mm wood, and then when the design was good, i made them out of 10mm ali. for now, i just painted them back, but if they work out, will see about getting them anodized. i know the pics dont show, but the finished brackets are 1mm higher then the bottom of the skid plate





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Old 07-05-2013, 02:51 AM   #5768
Pine Sol
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spark plug cap?

hello,

i was in the garage tonight, trying to figure out how to pull the cap off of the spark plug. i figure there has to be a trick, better to ask a (what some might think is a) silly question, then to break something trying to find out..

and is there a trick to remove the outside plug? rather then pulling off the air box

thank you
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:47 PM   #5769
Akita Man
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Location: SE Wisconsin
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Considering a used low mile 650 xchallange I found.

I've owned an xr 650 r. Wisconsin is a difficult place to make a bike street legal...so I sold it. Loved it otherwise. Missed estart however.
I was considering a xr650l as they are plentiful in good used shape.

2 questions:
1. How is the xchallange for bigger riders (I am 6'4")?
2. How does the xchallange stack up against an xr650L?

Same weight similar geometry. Air vs liquid cooled newer components on the BMW by 20 years

The bike I found has 5500 miles and is asking $5600. Very clean no Carole's. non abs.
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:26 PM   #5770
August West
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pine Sol View Post
hello,

i was in the garage tonight, trying to figure out how to pull the cap off of the spark plug. i figure there has to be a trick, better to ask a (what some might think is a) silly question, then to break something trying to find out..

and is there a trick to remove the outside plug? rather then pulling off the air box

thank you
You can buy a puller from a dealer. The caps are the coils and, apparently, can be damaged if removed incorrectly. This would be quite costly.
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:04 PM   #5771
tbarstow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akita Man View Post
I've owned an xr 650 r. Wisconsin is a difficult place to make a bike street legal...so I sold it. Loved it otherwise. Missed estart however.
I was considering a xr650l as they are plentiful in good used shape.

2 questions:
1. How is the xchallange for bigger riders (I am 6'4")?
2. How does the xchallange stack up against an xr650L?

Same weight similar geometry. Air vs liquid cooled newer components on the BMW by 20 years

The bike I found has 5500 miles and is asking $5600. Very clean no Carole's. non abs.
It will blow the XR away. It is a tall bike, so it should fit you well.
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:40 AM   #5772
MizzouRider
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Location: Fly over zone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akita Man View Post
I've owned an xr 650 r. Wisconsin is a difficult place to make a bike street legal...so I sold it. Loved it otherwise. Missed estart however.
I was considering a xr650l as they are plentiful in good used shape.

2 questions:
1. How is the xchallange for bigger riders (I am 6'4")?
2. How does the xchallange stack up against an xr650L?

Same weight similar geometry. Air vs liquid cooled newer components on the BMW by 20 years

The bike I found has 5500 miles and is asking $5600. Very clean no Carole's. non abs.
I'm 6'5" and love it. I have a ohlin shock on the back that adds to its height. Perfect for me. The distance from seat to footpegs seems long, so your knees aren't too bent either. (Good for a old guy.) seat concepts can change the seat over to something you can sit on all day for minimal $$ and quick turn around. I also added a X-Tank, gives it X2 the range..
I may have spent a bit less than $5600, but its been a few years. Not sure how many of them are up for sale though..
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:37 PM   #5773
2wheeldog
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More on the TT tank

I just put on about 2000k on XC after a couple of years of other bikes. tons of fun!
Put some serious wear on a pair of michelin T63s. both surprisingly good on pavement, the front not so good on gravel trying to have fun.

I wish that I thought of doing a Doc Watson on my XC. Some of the issues to deal with if you opt for the approved method: figuring out how much fuel is left when the reserve light is on. I think its maybe its a half-tank warning. Otherwise you can close off the valves and carry 10K of gas on your front wheel. Not happy with the handling of that, so I leave them open. 2: Its a huge hassle. Don't even use the crappy hose that comes with the tank.

If the Doc's method works like my Safari tank on the 450, all the fuel in the aux tank is gone when the fuel light comes on.


New tangent: Anyone found Silicone rad hoses?
Anyone have a radiator hose fail?





Quote:
Originally Posted by DrWatson View Post
if you haven't already mounted the TT tank to your bike, don't pipe it the TT way (drilling holes in the original tank etc). Instead run the TT tank to a T piece (mine has quick disconnects near the front and accessible, then a T piece sitting above the oil filter area out of the way, this then goes though a size converter and into the original tank air intake. works great.

this way if you hole a tank, you dont loose all the fuel. just turn the tap off on the holed side. it also sucks all the fule through as it goes to the rear making the weight stay low and rearward as it goes.

reserve will be either the same or more depending on the stop/starts etc. going from memory, i think i have got up to about 90km on reserver but normally it is 50km on the original tank.

If you want to have a deliberate larger reserve, then leave one of the TT taps shut. as long as it doesnt tip over you should get a decent bit of the lobe holding fuel depending on terrain/bumps.
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Old 08-26-2013, 12:54 PM   #5774
transworld
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Clutch problem?

Hello,
I have been trying to troubleshoot a loss of power when my 2009 xcountry gets hot.
I commute on the bike, and in the hot summer, after being stuck in traffic for a while, the bike always starts acting up. No power, delay in acceleration.
I now suspect a dragging clutch, which is kind of early since I have only 10,000 miles on the bike.

Now, since last week, i have a metallic humming noise on acceleration that started last time i had the loss of power symptoms. Noise disappear when i pull the clutch lever. Difficult to say where it comes from while riding.
I guess my question is, would it be possible the noise would come from the clutch?
The oil I have been using is Castrol 4T 10w40 (http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9484300/)
Let me know what you think, thanks!
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:08 PM   #5775
slide
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I think you mean a slipping clutch where the entire power of the engine isn't transmitted to the rear wheel. If so, you should sense the engine is revving too fast for any road speed achieved.
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