ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-17-2007, 04:46 PM   #1
SUVslayer OP
Studly Adventurer
 
SUVslayer's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: south of stinkfoot
Oddometer: 718
Gotta remove the Neutral switch

As ridiculous as it sounds, I can't get the little plastic neutral switch out of its housing on the bottom of the transmission. I removed the exhaust to get better access, but still can't get it out. It spins, but won't budge in the downward direction. Do I have to remove the plug (thereby draining the oil) or is there some nifty trick to removing this thing?
SUVslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 05:25 PM   #2
Stagehand
+/- V TDSPP
 
Stagehand's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Shawangunks
Oddometer: 24,989
tip the bike upside down?

seriously-- i think the whole thing unscrews, and the oil comes out. Better to drain it first, out the real bung. Might as well get a tranny transfusion anyway. I've gotten to it without taking the engine mount spacer off, but it was a pain.

Did you get a new one yet? you'll see what the part to be replaced looks like.

J
__________________
Unintentional psychokinesis.
Stagehand is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 05:54 PM   #3
elmoreman
takin' a break, boss
 
elmoreman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Elmore, VT
Oddometer: 1,767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
tip the bike upside down?

seriously-- i think the whole thing unscrews, and the oil comes out. Better to drain it first, out the real bung. Might as well get a tranny transfusion anyway. I've gotten to it without taking the engine mount spacer off, but it was a pain.

Did you get a new one yet? you'll see what the part to be replaced looks like.

J
I dunno how you got it out leaving the spacer in. Seems physically impossible.

I posted this in the tips and tricks section above.
Here's Snowbum's take:
http://www.cdegroot.com/cgi-bin/mirr...tralswitch.htm

I hit the spacer with a drift, knocked it out, filed off the leading edge so it would go back in easier, and stuck it in the freezer like the man says. It wasn't pretty, but it worked. Annoying little dripper, that switch.
__________________
airhead aficionado
elmoreman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 07:13 AM   #4
Suppermotodd
Tag Thief
 
Suppermotodd's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Location: Snobnal Mountain, TN
Oddometer: 1,022
Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by SUVslayer
As ridiculous as it sounds, I can't get the little plastic neutral switch out of its housing on the bottom of the transmission. I removed the exhaust to get better access, but still can't get it out. It spins, but won't budge in the downward direction. Do I have to remove the plug (thereby draining the oil) or is there some nifty trick to removing this thing?
Pull the transmission put it on the bench and flip it over. Then remove the neautral switch. While your at it lube your splines chech your seals and drive shaft. This is also a good time to lube or replace your paraleaver bearings.
__________________
Man I'm broke as a stick! NoPC-Lance

http://www.motocompound.com
Suppermotodd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 08:30 AM   #5
SOLO LOBO
airhead or nothing
 
SOLO LOBO's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Shoreline, WA
Oddometer: 8,519
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suppermotodd
Pull the transmission put it on the bench and flip it over. Then remove the neautral switch. While your at it lube your splines chech your seals and drive shaft. This is also a good time to lube or replace your paraleaver bearings.
+1, thats how I did it
__________________
"punkrocks what it's all about" - J. Strummer



Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
SOLO LOBO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 08:43 AM   #6
SUVslayer OP
Studly Adventurer
 
SUVslayer's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: south of stinkfoot
Oddometer: 718
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suppermotodd
Pull the transmission put it on the bench and flip it over. Then remove the neautral switch. While your at it lube your splines chech your seals and drive shaft. This is also a good time to lube or replace your paraleaver bearings.

I guess I was looking for a way to remove it without pulling the tranny. One of the electrical connector tabs broke on it; I'm not servicing a leak or anything like that. But I think all this answers my question: it's just a hard pull, and I have to find a way to get the grip and leverage on it (still installed) to yank it.
SUVslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 08:47 AM   #7
Joerg
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joerg's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Lausanne, Switzerland
Oddometer: 1,352
Eek Ahem ...

Hi,
Quote:
Originally Posted by SUVslayer
As ridiculous as it sounds, I can't get the little plastic neutral switch out of its housing on the bottom of the transmission. I removed the exhaust to get better access, but still can't get it out. It spins, but won't budge in the downward direction.
After re-reading your posting for the 3rd time, a dim light in the back of my brain seems to tell me that the plastic insert of the neutral switch is spinning. This is not the part you want to remove anyway; what you want to get out of the gearbox is this (19-mm key):



Quote:
Originally Posted by SUVslayer
Do I have to remove the plug (thereby draining the oil) or is there some nifty trick to removing this thing?
The only "normal" way to change the neutral switch without draining the oil of the gearbox is to remove the gearbox from the bike.

The easiest way way to change the neutral switch is to drain the oil of the gearbox into a container (before removing the switch ):


Btw, you did not say what bike you are talking about, but I have the impression it's an airhead GS ... and no, relying on us to look up this information in your profile is not an option
__________________
Greetings from Lausanne,

- Joerg


--
1990 BMW R80GS and K100LT
Jörg's Motorcycle Pages - pfranc of Switzerland
Joerg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 08:52 AM   #8
SUVslayer OP
Studly Adventurer
 
SUVslayer's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: south of stinkfoot
Oddometer: 718
You Rock

(And yes, '93 GS)
I had been lead to believe you could remove the plastic cap without removing the metal plug, but from your picture it looks like it all goes together. It looks like I'll be dumping the oil!
thanks!
SUVslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 09:56 AM   #9
benway
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Oddometer: 312
do take note that in the photo the spacer for the engine mount has been removed to access the neutral switch-- and the engine is supported.

also there are 2 kinds of switch so test yours first to see which one it is and then make sure you get the same kind from the dealer. ie which way it closes-- button in/out

hope that makes sense.
benway is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 10:07 AM   #10
Joerg
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joerg's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Lausanne, Switzerland
Oddometer: 1,352
Hi,
Quote:
Originally Posted by benway
do take note that in the photo the spacer for the engine mount has been removed to access the neutral switch-- and the engine is supported.
Yep. You want to use a car lift ot something similar for that. Here is the picture "before":



Quote:
Originally Posted by benway
also there are 2 kinds of switch so test yours first to see which one it is and then make sure you get the same kind from the dealer. ie which way it closes-- button in/out
According to my dealership, all airheads post /7 should be fine with p/n 61 31 1 243 097. Plus the washer. Cost is about 35 EUR or 50 CHF, I've paid just a fortnight ago (for the switch, not just the washer )

Detailed instructions, for those who bother: http://homepage.sunrise.ch/mysunrise...gearbox_switch
__________________
Greetings from Lausanne,

- Joerg


--
1990 BMW R80GS and K100LT
Jörg's Motorcycle Pages - pfranc of Switzerland
Joerg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 12:32 PM   #11
Hennepinboy
Have battery will travel.
 
Hennepinboy's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Minnetonka Minnesota
Oddometer: 444


Pull the transmission, it's easyer then removing the rear engine mount, I don't care what anyone else says, it just easyer. Anyway your splines probably need lubing and if your engine looks anything like this one you have some oil leaks to repair.
Hennepinboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 01:30 PM   #12
Joerg
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joerg's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Lausanne, Switzerland
Oddometer: 1,352
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hennepinboy
and if your engine looks anything like this one you have some oil leaks to repair.
Not "some" ... just one. Said leaking neutral switch.
__________________
Greetings from Lausanne,

- Joerg


--
1990 BMW R80GS and K100LT
Jörg's Motorcycle Pages - pfranc of Switzerland
Joerg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 04:27 PM   #13
Cpt. Ron
Advrider #128
 
Cpt. Ron's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Sacramento, CA
Oddometer: 2,983
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suppermotodd
Pull the transmission put it on the bench and flip it over. Then remove the neautral switch. While your at it lube your splines chech your seals and drive shaft. This is also a good time to lube or replace your paraleaver bearings.
Paralever or swingarm bearings?
__________________
Cpt. Ron

"I don't know what you do, but I know what I do, and I don't do that." --Uncle Doug, R.I.P.
"Without the possibility of death, adventure is not possible"--Reinhold Messner
Cpt. Ron is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 04:32 PM   #14
Cpt. Ron
Advrider #128
 
Cpt. Ron's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2001
Location: Sacramento, CA
Oddometer: 2,983
Be cautious with the new neutral switches. I found out the hard way that I needed to use a second sealing washer to get the proper function. The experts on the airheads list confirmed that the new switches appear to have some quality issues with the depth of the plunger and it's effective range.

You don't want to find this out after you've buttoned it all up. Test the function of the switch before reinstalling the tranny (or replacing the cross-member).

If you do this by removing the gearbox, having the airbox out is also an easy time to remove the starter if you think it will need any service, too.
__________________
Cpt. Ron

"I don't know what you do, but I know what I do, and I don't do that." --Uncle Doug, R.I.P.
"Without the possibility of death, adventure is not possible"--Reinhold Messner
Cpt. Ron is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 06:43 PM   #15
elmoreman
takin' a break, boss
 
elmoreman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Elmore, VT
Oddometer: 1,767
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt. Ron
Be cautious with the new neutral switches. I found out the hard way that I needed to use a second sealing washer to get the proper function. The experts on the airheads list confirmed that the new switches appear to have some quality issues with the depth of the plunger and it's effective range.

You don't want to find this out after you've buttoned it all up. Test the function of the switch before reinstalling the tranny (or replacing the cross-member).

If you do this by removing the gearbox, having the airbox out is also an easy time to remove the starter if you think it will need any service, too.
Right on. Since you're draining the tranny fluid anyway, you might want to put in a new shift seal as well. They both went on my bike at the same time.

.02
__________________
airhead aficionado
elmoreman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 12:14 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014