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Old 05-21-2013, 10:28 AM   #8866
Robidob
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Jacksonville, NC
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Bluhduh

Quote:
Originally Posted by nuggets View Post
New oil might help. It makes a difference in mine.
Going to give new oil and a filter a try and check the free play of the clutch, if that does not do the trick I am going to pull the clutch basket and take it to a machine shop have them mill out the rivets, install at least grade five bolts with permanent lock-tite and peen them, this should prevent any future problems with the clutch basket and since it seems like a defect in the design hopefully I wont ever have to worry about it again.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:22 AM   #8867
moterbiker
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Location: BOAF Caves, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robidob View Post
Going to give new oil and a filter a try and check the free play of the clutch, if that does not do the trick I am going to pull the clutch basket and take it to a machine shop have them mill out the rivets, install at least grade five bolts with permanent lock-tite and peen them, this should prevent any future problems with the clutch basket and since it seems like a defect in the design hopefully I wont ever have to worry about it again.
My basket was shot like this as well, I found a replacement on Ebay. The other issues can be the fingers on the basket are causing the plates to stick.
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:19 PM   #8868
Slojoe
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Albuquerque NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robidob View Post
Going to give new oil and a filter a try and check the free play of the clutch, if that does not do the trick I am going to pull the clutch basket and take it to a machine shop have them mill out the rivets, install at least grade five bolts with permanent lock-tite and peen them, this should prevent any future problems with the clutch basket and since it seems like a defect in the design hopefully I wont ever have to worry about it again.


Don’t waste you’re time trying to save an old clutch basket. The XT225 has a cushion drive hidden inside the clutch basket. The parts that wore out on mine were the plastic cushions between the drive gear and the basket. I would only buy a new basket to be sure of having good cushions in the Clutch basket. Here are some pictures.











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Old 05-21-2013, 05:44 PM   #8869
Robidob
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Thanks,
looks like you were working on doing exactly what I was thinking.
regards, Rob


Quote:
Originally Posted by Slojoe View Post


Don’t waste you’re time trying to save an old clutch basket. The XT225 has a cushion drive hidden inside the clutch basket. The parts that wore out on mine were the plastic cushions between the drive gear and the basket. I would only buy a new basket to be sure of having good cushions in the Clutch basket. Here are some pictures.











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Old 05-22-2013, 01:38 PM   #8870
rextec
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Location: Yucca Valley, CA
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Question uni filter

Im going to install a uni filter and was wondering if I would need a rejet with just this mod from your experiences ?
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:06 PM   #8871
GlennR
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Location: Boone,NC
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Originally Posted by rextec View Post
Im going to install a uni filter and was wondering if I would need a rejet with just this mod from your experiences ?

I don't think you'll need to rejet unless you open up the exhaust too.

I installed a Uni and my bike runs fine with the same jets.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:57 PM   #8872
rextec
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Location: Yucca Valley, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
I don't think you'll need to rejet unless you open up the exhaust too.

I installed a Uni and my bike runs fine with the same jets.
Thank you, kinda what i figured but i wanted someone with experience in the matter :).
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Old 05-23-2013, 03:45 AM   #8873
KamperBob
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Somewhere USA
Oddometer: 254
Finding neutral

My 2006 has >30k miles. Sometimes when stopped, idling it wants 1 or 2. When that does happen if I want neutral then I just start rolling slightly and it drops right in. For me oil doesn't seem to effect finding neutral much. It just makes shifting between gears a bit more audible. I noticed that early and chalked it up as normal personality. Half Pint is so rock solid I can't fault her!
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Old 05-23-2013, 08:32 AM   #8874
Reposado1800
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Location: 5th and Main
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One of my 8 gauge Buchanan spokes broke while tightening. Changing it involved pulling the tire, tube and 2 other spokes.
My son has been riding it to school everyday and I can say it is a formiddable commuter bike. Absolutely sips gas.
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:32 PM   #8875
rextec
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setting sag

Has anyone in here messed with the sag setting on thier XT??? If so do you have any tips? I found suspension travel specs for our bikes is 8.5" front and 7.5" rear. I found a pretty good post on another forum.... what do you guys think?


"I have come up with a formula that I use for setting the suspension up on my bikes. This info was collected the past few years from several different tuners and applied. I have broken this down into a formula using percentages of available travel so this will work on most any bike. (KTM PDS is slightly different but close). I thought I would share this knowledge with you.
Your shock spring preload should be less than 10mm on linkage suspension but not less than 5mm. You don't want to over preload a weak spring as you will just get a harsh ride that still will allow hard bottoming. I usually shoot for about 5mm preload on fork springs. If you have the right spring.
You can figure your correct sag numbers by using percentages. That way you can get the correct springs for you and your bike. Base these percentages on the available travel front and rear with a variance of + - 3 mm.
Front suspension static sag should be 14% ( available travel in mm X .14 = static sag in mm)
Front suspension rider sag should be 25% (X .25 = Rider sag)
Rear suspension static sag should be 11% of available travel (X .11 = static sag)
Rear suspension rider sag should be 34% of available travel (X .34 = rider sag)
Using these principles you can figure the correct sags for any bike and thus the correct springs without guessing and compromising.
Once you get the springs set correct you can get the forks and shock revalved if need be. I usually like to take 20-25% of the high speed compression out with the correct spring rates. I am an offroad racer / rider.
I usually leave rebound stock or change according to the replacement springs. I usually will change rebound one click per .2 kg. on rear shock. If I go up on spring rate say from a 5kg to a 5.8kg , I will go in 4 clicks. That is a good place to start. After setting rebound and spring sags (and getting correct spring rate installed). I find a G out or a ditch that I can jump into and expect to bottom front and rear at same time. I will back off compression till I am bottom softly front and rear. NOT DRIVING FOOTPEGS THROUGH YOUR FEET OR METAL TO METAL BOTTOMING.. Just bottoming softly. Then I go back in about 2 clicks to compensate for heated suspension. I then will ride extensively to see if I need to go in or out slightly to fine tune. Damping I find is a very personal thing it you take the time to dial it in. I like a plush and compliant suspension but not wallowy. Many times lately I find that I have to go down on fork springs and up on shock spring rates. I weigh 180-185lbs and ride a 2011 Husqvarna WR150. It came with .42kg fork springs. That is what my KTM 525 / 530 had in the front forks. For sure there is a big difference in weights. I tried .44kg on my 525 and the bike would not turn. The bike should settle into the corner front and rear when turning. My bike would not settle. The forks were way off static and rider sag. I was on the cusp whether to go to a .38kg or .40kg. If I were 10lbs lighter I could have used a .38kg. But as it stands the .40kg allowed my sag numbers to work perfectly. 40mm static and 75mm rider. With the correct sag rates the bike is not nearly as tall feeling. Much easier to throw a leg across. Turns perfectly and is very stable on straights. I am very happy with the results. Use the formula and you can get the perfect spring rates for you and your bike. Don't ride the bike till you are satisfied you have the correct spring rates as most shops will exchange unused springs for different rates. If you ride with them they will look used and can't be sold as new. I think you will be very happy with the results if you don't compromise."
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:30 AM   #8876
carlclaflin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuggets View Post
New oil might help. It makes a difference in mine.
i have a 94 with 12300+ miles, mine does the same thing. I do 70/30 (street/dirt, FS roads). Neutral seems hard to get into after some dirt riding only. Mostly when i'm stopped and want Neutral, i'm taking a break...getting water, a smoke or getting some feeling back to my ass, i'll just shut her off. then she just slides into neutral like normal and i'll dismount and take care of bussiness.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:09 AM   #8877
Robidob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlclaflin View Post
i have a 94 with 12300+ miles, mine does the same thing. I do 70/30 (street/dirt, FS roads). Neutral seems hard to get into after some dirt riding only. Mostly when i'm stopped and want Neutral, i'm taking a break...getting water, a smoke or getting some feeling back to my ass, i'll just shut her off. then she just slides into neutral like normal and i'll dismount and take care of bussiness.
beginning to think that this is just part of the character of this bike now that I see so many have the same issue.
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:02 PM   #8878
mr. matteeanne
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Location: Dualsport Paradise, Olympics
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Help!! I am replacing chain and sprockets, what is supposed to be holding on the front sprocket? The old one had two 10mm bolts but they did not appear to hold it on, it was wiggly loose when I took it off? arrgghhh!
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:49 PM   #8879
Adelphos
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Location: Nebraska or South Dakota depending on the season
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I trimmed my XT's front fender today


I drew in the new lines pretty similar to the old, but right how I wanted them:


Here's the rough cut before filing it down nice and smooth:


Stocker profile . . . derp:


Rough cut, before final shaping and filing:


I liked the stock shape and wanted to keep that widest point so I just bent some lines to make it work and look the way I pictured it in my head.

Here's the final product :
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:52 PM   #8880
Adelphos
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Location: Nebraska or South Dakota depending on the season
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Also, anyone have some leads as to where I can get a stock XT REAR wheel for cheap. They seems to be a bit overpriced everywhere I've looked. Looking for the stock 2.15x18" rear wheel. Thanks in advance for any leads.
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