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Old 05-27-2013, 09:59 PM   #8896
woofer2609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithert View Post
I got a set of hand and lever protectors that I'm looking at how to install on the XT225. The handlebars don't seem to have enough of an area free of wiring to install the support for the bar. How have you guys overcome this? Also the throttle sleeve is closed at the end. Do you have to cut the end off to allow the bar and support to be installed?

Also I got a new set of handgrips. They are longer than the throttle sleeve. I current have 4 quarters in them to take up the excess space. If I put the protectors on would I have to cut down the grips?
Hmmm, sounds like a good place to stash a few bucks
Hand and lever protectors say that they are an easy fit, but rarely, if ever, are they. It requires some cuttin' drilling, cussing, and sweating. It is possible to make room for the cables etc. What kind of protectors? Stock bars?
I used a wood spade to drill out the throttle tube, you could alternately use a hacksaw. Use scissors on the grips so they don't interfere with the lever protectors. Sand down the inside of the throttle tube at the end and check for free play to make sure it is not catching. I liberally apply Vaseline to the throttle side handlebar to keep things smooth, but that's personal preference.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:00 PM   #8897
woofer2609
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Originally Posted by lamotovita View Post
That's an interesting old link. I wonder if the guy getting 90mpg on his 225 with the small front wheel knew that his odometer isn't accurate anymore.
Never thought of that! Good observation! Think of the mileage with a 12" wheel.
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Old 05-28-2013, 05:56 AM   #8898
KamperBob
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Speedo calibration

Quote:
Originally Posted by lamotovita View Post
That's an interesting old link. I wonder if the guy getting 90mpg on his 225 with the small front wheel knew that his odometer isn't accurate anymore.
My speedo over reports by a few percent. So indicated 90-95 mpg is really more like 85-90 I'd say.YMMV :)
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:20 AM   #8899
Robidob
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Cool2

Here are some frequent questions I have been asked about my XT anyone who owns one knows the truth and will most likely find humor in my rant.

Will it do 70? yes it will, with high RPMs but the bike can take it. Would a set of sprockets help, yes.

Is it to small for me? most likely NO I am 6'2 and 190lbs and it still moves just fine with on it , ad bar risers and oversize pegs and a seat cushion to improve ergos.

I hear the suspension sucks does it? If you adjust the rear correctly and make sure there is actually air in your front side it will take anything except the motocross track or real serious high speed off road stuff if you go slow on the rough sections of trails you will never have any issues.

Isn't the XT a cheap bike? yes it has a low price tag but to be honest the only quality issue I have noticed it the spokes on the stock wheels and the seat is not great. I have rode way more expensive bikes that have seemed way cheaper. It is a simple bike but that is part of the allure for me, I have spent a ton of time in third world countries and I always pay attention to the bikes they ride there, Normally under 250cc simple construction and easy to work on. This is exactly what I like about the XT I can feel confident doing anything but the most elaborate maintenance with minimal tools and just my basic mechanical knowledge. These bikes are popular just about everywhere but the united states where our mindset seems bigger is better.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:33 AM   #8900
Robidob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithert View Post
I got a set of hand and lever protectors that I'm looking at how to install on the XT225. The handlebars don't seem to have enough of an area free of wiring to install the support for the bar. How have you guys overcome this? Also the throttle sleeve is closed at the end. Do you have to cut the end off to allow the bar and support to be installed?

Also I got a new set of handgrips. They are longer than the throttle sleeve. I current have 4 quarters in them to take up the excess space. If I put the protectors on would I have to cut down the grips?
I drill a pilot hole and then use a step drill bit to drill out the throttle tube use a dremel tool and a buffing pad to smooth everything out , I use a utility knife to cut the grips. One thing that will help you make room is getting a quality set of bar risers I used the ROX adjustable on mine 2" will work fine without needing longer cables and seemed to free up some room on mine I have 12v plug and a USB port wired in on mine and I have plenty of space. Make sure you lube up the throttle tube before putting it back together depending on the style of guard be careful not to over tighten the end bolts on your guards/bars or you risk flaring out your handle bars and causing additional friction on your throttle tube. Good luck , you will love them once you are done.
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:33 AM   #8901
Keithert
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Thanks Robidob and Woofer2609. Can either of you post a pic of your guards on your bike? I do have a set of risers on the bars currently.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:10 AM   #8902
Robidob
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http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/Ro...lideshow/XT225
here is a picture hope they help, mine are off brand guards but they work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithert View Post
Thanks Robidob and Woofer2609. Can either of you post a pic of your guards on your bike? I do have a set of risers on the bars currently.

Robidob screwed with this post 05-28-2013 at 10:15 AM
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:22 AM   #8903
Keithert
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Hmm, the pics are not showing up.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:25 AM   #8904
Robidob
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Lemme try it again
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithert View Post
Hmm, the pics are not showing up.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:50 AM   #8905
Keithert
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Thanks ,that worked. I was cheap and bought the version that only has the metal, not the plastic deflectors. Mostly to protect the levers.
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Keithert screwed with this post 05-28-2013 at 12:01 PM
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:27 PM   #8906
MasterChief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J5k View Post
Cool, looks like the pro-circuit is a bit cheaper than fmf and has different tips you can use to tune to your liking. Are you running a quiet tip of any sort?
Yes, I am running the quiet tip and spark aresstor.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:39 PM   #8907
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Anyone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rextec View Post
Has anyone in here messed with the sag setting on thier XT??? If so do you have any tips? I found suspension travel specs for our bikes is 8.5" front and 7.5" rear. I found a pretty good post on another forum.... what do you guys think?


"I have come up with a formula that I use for setting the suspension up on my bikes. This info was collected the past few years from several different tuners and applied. I have broken this down into a formula using percentages of available travel so this will work on most any bike. (KTM PDS is slightly different but close). I thought I would share this knowledge with you.
Your shock spring preload should be less than 10mm on linkage suspension but not less than 5mm. You don't want to over preload a weak spring as you will just get a harsh ride that still will allow hard bottoming. I usually shoot for about 5mm preload on fork springs. If you have the right spring.
You can figure your correct sag numbers by using percentages. That way you can get the correct springs for you and your bike. Base these percentages on the available travel front and rear with a variance of + - 3 mm.
Front suspension static sag should be 14% ( available travel in mm X .14 = static sag in mm)
Front suspension rider sag should be 25% (X .25 = Rider sag)
Rear suspension static sag should be 11% of available travel (X .11 = static sag)
Rear suspension rider sag should be 34% of available travel (X .34 = rider sag)
Using these principles you can figure the correct sags for any bike and thus the correct springs without guessing and compromising.
Once you get the springs set correct you can get the forks and shock revalved if need be. I usually like to take 20-25% of the high speed compression out with the correct spring rates. I am an offroad racer / rider.
I usually leave rebound stock or change according to the replacement springs. I usually will change rebound one click per .2 kg. on rear shock. If I go up on spring rate say from a 5kg to a 5.8kg , I will go in 4 clicks. That is a good place to start. After setting rebound and spring sags (and getting correct spring rate installed). I find a G out or a ditch that I can jump into and expect to bottom front and rear at same time. I will back off compression till I am bottom softly front and rear. NOT DRIVING FOOTPEGS THROUGH YOUR FEET OR METAL TO METAL BOTTOMING.. Just bottoming softly. Then I go back in about 2 clicks to compensate for heated suspension. I then will ride extensively to see if I need to go in or out slightly to fine tune. Damping I find is a very personal thing it you take the time to dial it in. I like a plush and compliant suspension but not wallowy. Many times lately I find that I have to go down on fork springs and up on shock spring rates. I weigh 180-185lbs and ride a 2011 Husqvarna WR150. It came with .42kg fork springs. That is what my KTM 525 / 530 had in the front forks. For sure there is a big difference in weights. I tried .44kg on my 525 and the bike would not turn. The bike should settle into the corner front and rear when turning. My bike would not settle. The forks were way off static and rider sag. I was on the cusp whether to go to a .38kg or .40kg. If I were 10lbs lighter I could have used a .38kg. But as it stands the .40kg allowed my sag numbers to work perfectly. 40mm static and 75mm rider. With the correct sag rates the bike is not nearly as tall feeling. Much easier to throw a leg across. Turns perfectly and is very stable on straights. I am very happy with the results. Use the formula and you can get the perfect spring rates for you and your bike. Don't ride the bike till you are satisfied you have the correct spring rates as most shops will exchange unused springs for different rates. If you ride with them they will look used and can't be sold as new. I think you will be very happy with the results if you don't compromise."
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:22 PM   #8908
Adelphos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
You be looking for a "rim", not a wheel What spokes are you planning on using?
Try searching for just the rim on ebay
I came across this interesting thread as well:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/244...onversion-pic/
somewhere in there someone mentions a TW200 front wheel. This might be an option as well, no?
I'm a truck guy. The wheel is the metal part and the tire is the rubber part ha

Quote:
Originally Posted by lamotovita View Post
That's an interesting old link. I wonder if the guy getting 90mpg on his 225 with the small front wheel knew that his odometer isn't accurate anymore.
there are many people who have done that conversion and I have PM'd him personally on TacomaWorld about buying some parts off him. He seems very detail oriented and thorough. I highly doubt he doesn't know that his speedo is inaccurate. He rides a DRZ400SM now. I'm looking at keeping the XT and picking up a V Strom rather than ditch this faithful little guy
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Old 05-28-2013, 05:12 PM   #8909
Robidob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithert View Post
Thanks ,that worked. I was cheap and bought the version that only has the metal, not the plastic deflectors. Mostly to protect the levers.
Mine have an aluminum bar inside of the plastic that allows you to bend them a little bit if you need to.
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:35 AM   #8910
killurtv
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Location: central oregon
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2007 xt225 wont start

Hello,
I have a friend that recently bought an 2007 xt225. The starter relay just clicks rapidly when attempting to start it. A new relay was installed, but still nothing. It does on rare occasion turn over, but then goes right back to clicking away.

Any advise will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.
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