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Old 06-23-2013, 09:03 AM   #9001
rextec
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Yucca Valley, CA
Oddometer: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by J5k View Post
I just installed an fmf as well. How did your install go? I had to drill out the hole on the muffler where it mounts under the seat. Not much drilling but had to drill none the less. Also, did you go with a quiet core? I'm looking at doing that but don't know the correct part number as google gives up a few different parts. There's a thread about it over at xt225.com but appears to be for an older style.
I had to drill out a bit as well, but i chose to drill out the frame mount instead of the muffler. Only had to drill out about 1mm or so. Im running it without the quiet core and just the spark arrestor. Have you rejetted yours? If so what did you use and what altitude are you at? Im at 3400' and I started with a 42.5 pilot and 130 main but found it wasn't as responsive as it should of been so i went with the stock 40 pilot and a 127.5 main runs great, no stumbles or hesitation and revs out smoothly. Should mention its pretty hot out here too around 95* since that effects jetting as well.
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Old 06-23-2013, 06:23 PM   #9002
J5k
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Greenfield Center, NY
Oddometer: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by rextec View Post
I had to drill out a bit as well, but i chose to drill out the frame mount instead of the muffler. Only had to drill out about 1mm or so. Im running it without the quiet core and just the spark arrestor. Have you rejetted yours? If so what did you use and what altitude are you at? Im at 3400' and I started with a 42.5 pilot and 130 main but found it wasn't as responsive as it should of been so i went with the stock 40 pilot and a 127.5 main runs great, no stumbles or hesitation and revs out smoothly. Should mention its pretty hot out here too around 95* since that effects jetting as well.
this is where I'm talking about having to drill. I figured I'd drill the muffler since the hole in the frame is threaded. I also used the original allen head bolt... If I ever want to go back to stock I can do so really easily. I assume you drilled out the threaded hole and just used a nut and bolt there?

As for jetting I went up a size or two on each last summer, as well as the 2.5 turns out on the air screw. I don't remember the exact numbers (highly possible I posted about it somewhere in this thread). I got out for my first real ride with the fmf today. While its definitely louder, the low end (the only end I use!) seems well improved. The throttle response definitely feels improved. The only way I can describe the stock response is "rubbery". I'm still trying to figure out what quiet core to grab.

I'm at about 1000ft elevation. About 85 and humid as hell today. The bike ran great. I'm going to throw a new plug in before my next ride and see where I'm at the next time out.

J5k screwed with this post 06-23-2013 at 06:27 PM Reason: editted to subscribe, damnit.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:40 PM   #9003
rextec
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Yucca Valley, CA
Oddometer: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by J5k View Post
this is where I'm talking about having to drill. I figured I'd drill the muffler since the hole in the frame is threaded. I also used the original allen head bolt... If I ever want to go back to stock I can do so really easily. I assume you drilled out the threaded hole and just used a nut and bolt there?

As for jetting I went up a size or two on each last summer, as well as the 2.5 turns out on the air screw. I don't remember the exact numbers (highly possible I posted about it somewhere in this thread). I got out for my first real ride with the fmf today. While its definitely louder, the low end (the only end I use!) seems well improved. The throttle response definitely feels improved. The only way I can describe the stock response is "rubbery". I'm still trying to figure out what quiet core to grab.

I'm at about 1000ft elevation. About 85 and humid as hell today. The bike ran great. I'm going to throw a new plug in before my next ride and see where I'm at the next time out.
I drilled the front mount, the unthreaded tab, just made it a little oblong so i could get that bolt started then got the rear on there and buttoned it all up. I also did the 3 turn mod on the pilot screw.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:25 AM   #9004
woofer2609
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Extreme Pacific SouthWest (of Canada)
Oddometer: 614
Why I love this bike

I hope this helps out some other rider at some point who is suddenly left without a speedometer.
I initially thought that my speedo cable was broken when I saw my speedo needle bounce around and then flatline at 0, (which happened when my speedo cable broke at 20,000km's) I ordered another one before investigating the root cause, so was rather surprised when I took off the old one to replace it and found that it was intact. I took the speedo drive off the hub, and immediately knew that something was off. It was a brown pasty slurry of water, dirt, and grease. Probably due to lots of riding in the rain, salted roads, and stuff like this:

Anyway, here is a photo of it after being cleaned out with compressed air, having the main shaft buffed, and the whole unit regreased. (I didn't get a "before" image. Just imagine it "dirtier")

You can see the top ring with 3 tabs. These make contact with the 3 tabs that are on the front wheel which subsequently drives the ring gear that turns the speedo cable. Make sure that the tabs are straight and haven't been bent. Mine were a little maligned. This 3 tabbed sprocket is held onto the housing shaft that the axle slides through by a circlip.
When the circlip and 3 tabbed sprocket are removed, you can see the ring gear and pinion that drives the speedo cable

The ring gear has 2 milled faces that the 3 tabbed sprocket mates with. When the 3 tabbed sprocket turns, it in turn turns the ring gear. Here are the two milled faces. Water contamination and surface rust is pretty evident. I was actually surprised it still mated with the pinion

I buffed the inside of the ring gear where it rotates on the shaft and liberally applied grease. This really smoothed out the operation! Here is a photo before slopping grease into the gears.

You can't see it here but there is a washer that slides over the shaft and sits between the ring gear and the housing body. Make sure this is where it sits, other wise your speedo will not work when you tighten your axle nut!
Mate the three tabbed sprocket with the ring gear, slide it over the shaft, and re-install the circlip.
Attach your speedo cable and try turning the three tabbed sprocket. It should easily rotate in the housing and you will see the speedo cable turning. I took the bike out for a spin and it works!
I love the fact that I could rebuild this unit and not have to replace it. This bike is just so durable, user serviceable, and more or less downright reliable that I don't think I will ever get rid of it. Parts costs seem reasonable, and with a few exceptions, it is assembled in a very logical manner.
The longer I have it, the more it reminds me of my 2004 2.3 liter, no air conditioning, 5spd manual Mazda b2300 with no power locks and roll up windows; There's not too much that can go wrong, and if it does, the average Joe/Jane with some mechanical aptitude can solve it. Sure it's not the fastest, prettiest, most capable tool, but with the right tires and operator it just works.
On the downside, I guess I have a spare speedo cable now
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Old 06-25-2013, 02:39 AM   #9005
carlclaflin
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Joined: May 2012
Location: North Idaho
Oddometer: 194
great info!

Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
I hope this helps out some other rider at some point who is suddenly left without a speedometer.
I initially thought that my speedo cable was broken when I saw my speedo needle bounce around and then flatline at 0, (which happened when my speedo cable broke at 20,000km's) I ordered another one before investigating the root cause, so was rather surprised when I took off the old one to replace it and found that it was intact. I took the speedo drive off the hub, and immediately knew that something was off. It was a brown pasty slurry of water, dirt, and grease. Probably due to lots of riding in the rain, salted roads, and stuff like this:

Anyway, here is a photo of it after being cleaned out with compressed air, having the main shaft buffed, and the whole unit regreased. (I didn't get a "before" image. Just imagine it "dirtier")

You can see the top ring with 3 tabs. These make contact with the 3 tabs that are on the front wheel which subsequently drives the ring gear that turns the speedo cable. Make sure that the tabs are straight and haven't been bent. Mine were a little maligned. This 3 tabbed sprocket is held onto the housing shaft that the axle slides through by a circlip.
When the circlip and 3 tabbed sprocket are removed, you can see the ring gear and pinion that drives the speedo cable

The ring gear has 2 milled faces that the 3 tabbed sprocket mates with. When the 3 tabbed sprocket turns, it in turn turns the ring gear. Here are the two milled faces. Water contamination and surface rust is pretty evident. I was actually surprised it still mated with the pinion

I buffed the inside of the ring gear where it rotates on the shaft and liberally applied grease. This really smoothed out the operation! Here is a photo before slopping grease into the gears.

You can't see it here but there is a washer that slides over the shaft and sits between the ring gear and the housing body. Make sure this is where it sits, other wise your speedo will not work when you tighten your axle nut!
Mate the three tabbed sprocket with the ring gear, slide it over the shaft, and re-install the circlip.
Attach your speedo cable and try turning the three tabbed sprocket. It should easily rotate in the housing and you will see the speedo cable turning. I took the bike out for a spin and it works!
I love the fact that I could rebuild this unit and not have to replace it. This bike is just so durable, user serviceable, and more or less downright reliable that I don't think I will ever get rid of it. Parts costs seem reasonable, and with a few exceptions, it is assembled in a very logical manner.
The longer I have it, the more it reminds me of my 2004 2.3 liter, no air conditioning, 5spd manual Mazda b2300 with no power locks and roll up windows; There's not too much that can go wrong, and if it does, the average Joe/Jane with some mechanical aptitude can solve it. Sure it's not the fastest, prettiest, most capable tool, but with the right tires and operator it just works.
On the downside, I guess I have a spare speedo cable now

Great info, awesome pics. this looks like a good one day job to do when it's rainy out and don't feel like getting wet.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:50 PM   #9006
deodom
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Ft. Pierce, FL
Oddometer: 80
Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by woofer2609 View Post
I hope this helps out some other rider at some point who is suddenly left without a speedometer.
I initially thought that my speedo cable was broken when I saw my speedo needle bounce around and then flatline at 0, (which happened when my speedo cable broke at 20,000km's) I ordered another one before investigating the root cause, so was rather surprised when I took off the old one to replace it and found that it was intact. I took the speedo drive off the hub, and immediately knew that something was off. It was a brown pasty slurry of water, dirt, and grease. Probably due to lots of riding in the rain, salted roads, and stuff.
The longer I have it, the more it reminds me of my 2004 2.3 liter, no air conditioning, 5spd manual Mazda b2300 with no power locks and roll up windows; There's not too much that can go wrong, and if it does, the average Joe/Jane with some mechanical aptitude can solve it. Sure it's not the fastest, prettiest, most capable tool, but with the right tires and operator it just works.
On the downside, I guess I have a spare speedo cable now
Riding in that kind of mud will kill just about anything. When mine quit once, it had just come unscrewed from the speedo.
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Old 07-03-2013, 04:05 PM   #9007
uniberp
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Elmhurst, IL
Oddometer: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by SantaFeTrailer View Post
My report on the $35 rack from American Manufacturing.
Saw this posting a little too late. I like that Am mfg rack, but can't find it.

Does it really have the character of this, though?
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:40 PM   #9008
alonzo
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Northwest Ozarks
Oddometer: 404
the 0.060" difference

Some time back I put a 42.5 pilot and 130 main jet, did the Z1 mod and removed the snorkle on my XT. It was an improvement over stock but never was quite right. Low end was pretty good but at higher rpm's or more load it just felt flat. And, it also stumbled a fair amount at higher rpms too.

I had been thinking of shimming the needle for some time now and now have finally done it. First a .030" shim (piece of major credit card) and there was a big improvement. But, still, just a little flat near the top. So today I added another .028" (different credit card) for a total of about .058" (~1.5mm.)

All I can say is: Wow! Wow! and Wow! I finally found out where all the XT's power was hiding.

There's still a bit of spit/stumble near the top though. Could this be due to incorrect float level? Or, do I need yet more shim (guess that's easy enough to find out, eh??)

Also, it's off the choke from a cold start much earlier now. A big plus.

I'd be interested in hearing other's experience with shimming the needle.

My XT's still not a freeway bike (but I did hit 74 mph (gps) on a slight incline today, but I think 65 mph is a more realistic top speed.

Now that the XT is running so sweet maybe I'll sell my DR650 (did I really say that?? Well hush my mouth!)

-- alonzo
__________________
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1978 BMW R80/7
2009 BMW F650GS (do you think a new BMW every 30 years is too much?)

2006 Yamaha XT225
1970 Triumph Bonneville T120R

"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has limits."
Ąsǝʞıq ʇɹıp ɟo ɟɟo ʎɐʇs pןnoɥs noʎ ǝqʎɐɯ uǝɥʇ sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:23 PM   #9009
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,936
Quote:
Originally Posted by alonzo View Post
..........................
I had been thinking of shimming the needle for some time now and now have finally done it. First a .030" shim (piece of major credit card) and there was a big improvement. But, still, just a little flat near the top. So today I added another .028" (different credit card) for a total of about .058" (~1.5mm.).
I think that gasoline will eat your credit cards. Just like my ex-wife.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alonzo View Post
I'd be interested in hearing other's experience with shimming the needle.
Shimming the needle works for many carbed bikes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alonzo View Post
Now that the XT is running so sweet maybe I'll sell my DR650 (did I really say that?? Well hush my mouth!)

-- alonzo
WHUT???
__________________
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2013 WR250R

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:35 AM   #9010
jspringator
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Versailles, KY
Oddometer: 353
Quote:
Originally Posted by alonzo View Post
Some time back I put a 42.5 pilot and 130 main jet, did the Z1 mod and removed the snorkle on my XT. It was an improvement over stock but never was quite right. Low end was pretty good but at higher rpm's or more load it just felt flat. And, it also stumbled a fair amount at higher rpms too.

I had been thinking of shimming the needle for some time now and now have finally done it. First a .030" shim (piece of major credit card) and there was a big improvement. But, still, just a little flat near the top. So today I added another .028" (different credit card) for a total of about .058" (~1.5mm.)

All I can say is: Wow! Wow! and Wow! I finally found out where all the XT's power was hiding.

There's still a bit of spit/stumble near the top though. Could this be due to incorrect float level? Or, do I need yet more shim (guess that's easy enough to find out, eh??)

Also, it's off the choke from a cold start much earlier now. A big plus.

I'd be interested in hearing other's experience with shimming the needle.

My XT's still not a freeway bike (but I did hit 74 mph (gps) on a slight incline today, but I think 65 mph is a more realistic top speed.

Now that the XT is running so sweet maybe I'll sell my DR650 (did I really say that?? Well hush my mouth!)

-- alonzo
What is your altitude? I'm at 800 feet and I use the bike mainly for beach vacations. I'm wondering how your mods would work at 1,000 feet and below.

I just removed my snorkle last week and will try drilling my muffler today.
__________________
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2000 ST1100 ABS
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:43 AM   #9011
GlennR
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Boone,NC
Oddometer: 1,841
More power would be great, but my XT runs so well now I'd be afraid to screw with anything. I need to race somebody who's shimmed their needle & see if they can beat my "little champ" before clipping the credit cards.

Mine already hits 82 mph "indicated" on the flats. I need new brake pads before trying a downhill speed run!!
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:44 AM   #9012
uniberp
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Elmhurst, IL
Oddometer: 28
"I think that gasoline will eat your credit cards. Just like my ex-wife. "

"Shimming the needle works for many carbed bikes."

I suspect that means uses more gas, richer?
A 20% drop in XT gas mileage is still good mileage. More heat too.
More power less life, broke stuff aside.
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'80 CT110

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Old 07-04-2013, 06:50 AM   #9013
jspringator
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Versailles, KY
Oddometer: 353
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennR View Post
More power would be great, but my XT runs so well now I'd be afraid to screw with anything. I need to race somebody who's shimmed their needle & see if they can beat my "little champ" before clipping the credit cards.

Mine already hits 82 mph "indicated" on the flats. I need new brake pads before trying a downhill speed run!!
Have you made any mods to yours?
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2000 ST1100 ABS
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:28 AM   #9014
GlennR
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Boone,NC
Oddometer: 1,841
I've only done the 2.5 turns out of the pilot jet adjustment screw & drilled out the baffle plate (I drilled it about 4-5 times with a 1/2" drill because I didn't have a hole saw that would reach deep enough).

I did add the big foot pegs & higher handlebars, but those don't make it faster. They are great for off-road handling.
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:32 AM   #9015
J5k
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Greenfield Center, NY
Oddometer: 53
I swapped out the front signal lights today for some smaller and brighter ones. I should've taken a pic when I had one old and one new on, but I didn't. Anyway, the results.
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