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Old 03-14-2009, 08:43 PM   #31
bluegroove
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ahh but the 300 actually works the same way...and all it has is a clip. OK the amount of "float" is really non existant, but my point is that there's no pressure on it, just a good fit. it does sometimes weep a bit of oil but the sprocket stays on!!
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:55 PM   #32
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It's really best to replace the bolt and spring washer when you change countershaft sprockets. Sometimes I cheat and rebend the washer using a couple sockets and the hydraulic press, but the bolt/washer are relatively cheap - and it sucks to have to do what zerodog had to do and extract a chunk of busted bolt.
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Old 03-14-2009, 10:39 PM   #33
mikeprod92211
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I just went and drilled an angled hole in the CS bolt, and since my 17 tooth CS has little perimeter holes in it, I safety wired the bolt to the sprocket.
Bout a year ago I put in a new lock washer, lock tite and proper torque....
Found out a couple of weeks ago that I could loosen the bolt with my fingers....it loosened up. So a permanent fix now!
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Old 03-15-2009, 12:21 AM   #34
bluegroove
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that sounds good. But if there's enough force to loosen a properly torqued bolt, I think it eventually might break the wire... maybe
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Old 03-15-2009, 03:39 AM   #35
guns_equal_freedom
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Unpossible, it's not a KLR.
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Old 03-15-2009, 05:45 AM   #36
flux_capacitor
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I just replaced chain and sprockets on my bike about a month ago. I did not know then that the bolt and washer were consumables, but I quickly learned after my bike sprung a countershaft sprocket oil leak. Went to my dealer, he told me what the deal is, and I got the new washer and bolt (pre-loctited).

To me, this sounds like a case of the bolt never being renewed, and possible over-torquing of the bolt when it was last reused, which in theory would stretch the bolt just enough to weaken it.

They make torque wrenches for a reason fellas.
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Old 03-15-2009, 07:48 AM   #37
ChrisC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flux_capacitor
They make torque wrenches for a reason fellas.
Please explain?

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Old 03-15-2009, 09:07 AM   #38
J.W.Mudd
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Lost nuts

Drill & Wire is added insurance also
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Old 03-15-2009, 09:59 AM   #39
bluegroove
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mine was cleaned, loctited and torqued...but still loosened
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Old 03-15-2009, 10:06 AM   #40
overlandr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisC
Please explain?

Fixed just for the Ozzies.
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:01 PM   #41
mikeprod92211
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The reason I drilled and safety wired the bolt is it was properly torqued with a new crush washer... and it loosened anyways.
This way, with a hole cut in the cover to be able to see the bolt, I can easily see whether the wire is still in place. If so, everything is ok, if wire is cut, means the bolt has loosened enough, and needs to be re-tightened.
As you know, (according to many), the LC4 is like a paint shaker, so a little extra insurance is a good thing (for me anyways).
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:02 PM   #42
stephano
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I have never heard of this "counter shaft bolt problem" before. I even looked on a couple other KTM forums and nothing but here it seems that the darned things are popping off left and right and possibly breaking tie wires at that...

I replaced the o-ring seal for good measures once but never the bolt. Thuroughly cleaned the threads, always used a torque wrench too, and I cant even imagine the 35 lbs of torque being enough to stress out a bolt that thick to where shearing would ever happen...that is unless no torque wrench was used and 35 lbs turned into 55 or more. It doesn't take much to rack up the torque figures with a nice size wrench especially when the bolt tries to stop turning. So wondering here...if the bolt problem was such a "problem" then why didn't anyone mention getting a grade 8 bolt if the OEM one wasn't? Is the OEM bolt specific in anyway that wouldn't allow that?

Did anyone who had this problem consider the fact that maybe their rear tire alignment was off enough to cause the sprocket to put an unnecessary amount of load on the bolt and washer? What did the counter shaft sprocket look like after the failure?
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