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Old 11-29-2006, 08:12 AM   #1
hcmiller92 OP
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DRZ400 (and 650) Alternator Output

I'm looking to buy another DS bike to use on woods roads and for winter use in the northeast. I've narrowed my choices down to the Suzuki DRZ400, or possibly, the 650. Almost ready to plunk my $$$ down and I got a cold shiver down my back: the one thing I forgot to question was the alternator output. I need to be able to power my Gerbing's jacket and gloves, and would also like to be able to power one extra set of running lights, a total of about 225 watts of extra draw.

My question is, what are the alternators of the 400 and 650 rated at? Are others using the bikes for these purposes and with heated gear and lights? I guess I'm a bit spoiled with my BMW's output at about 700 watts but really would like to go with either of these Suzukis for a street/trails bike.

Thank you for any feedback.
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Old 11-29-2006, 08:18 AM   #2
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I dunno what they put out, but you might look on the baja designs and e-line websites as they both make high output coils/stators for most off road bikes. Also note that both DR's require a lot less power to run the bike itself than a fuel injected street bike does (no fuel pump, ecu, injectors etc).


good luck
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Old 11-29-2006, 01:41 PM   #3
Django Loco
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The 2006 DR650 puts out only 200 watts. I can run my Gerbing (77 watts)
and heated grips (36 watts) if I don't leave the Gerbing full up all the time
(I use the Heat Troller) and switch off in towns and slow traffic. Otherwise it will drain the Batt after a day of riding. Don't know what your gloves draw.

Check out the KLR Stator thread. Its huge. They are doing a group buy from
Electrosport, getting higher output stators. Two are available, either
a 300 watt or 400 watt unit. Check their website, they also make an upgraded stator for the DR650 and probably the DRZ too. I don't know the specific output of the DRZ400 in stock form. Probably 200 watts also.

You can also have the stock stator rewound at a variety of specialist shops
like Ricky Stator for about $100. Its not a difficult thing to do. They can easily get 300 watts out of it without worrying about how if might affect the reg/rectifier or other components in the system.

I would run a very low draw driving light (halogen), maybe 35 watts max, and only on the left side (for left hand corners). The stock DR650 headlight is quite good. When conserving juice remember both the turn signals and brake lights draw a lot of current. For day time running I switch off my headlight (I installed a switch). That gives 55 free extra watts right there. No problems
whatsoever.

I may have my stator rewound or buy an Electrosport in the future but it looks like for 90% of my ridng I'm OK as is. Both are great bikes, the DR a bit
better on the highway and longer rides, the DRZ better in technical dirt.

Good luck!
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Old 11-29-2006, 05:14 PM   #4
hcmiller92 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Django Loco
The 2006 DR650 puts out only 200 watts. I can run my Gerbing (77 watts)
and heated grips (36 watts) if I don't leave the Gerbing full up all the time
(I use the Heat Troller) and switch off in towns and slow traffic. Otherwise it will drain the Batt after a day of riding. Don't know what your gloves draw.

Check out the KLR Stator thread. Its huge. They are doing a group buy from
Electrosport, getting higher output stators. Two are available, either
a 300 watt or 400 watt unit. Check their website, they also make an upgraded stator for the DR650 and probably the DRZ too. I don't know the specific output of the DRZ400 in stock form. Probably 200 watts also.

You can also have the stock stator rewound at a variety of specialist shops
like Ricky Stator for about $100. Its not a difficult thing to do. They can easily get 300 watts out of it without worrying about how if might affect the reg/rectifier or other components in the system.

I would run a very low draw driving light (halogen), maybe 35 watts max, and only on the left side (for left hand corners). The stock DR650 headlight is quite good. When conserving juice remember both the turn signals and brake lights draw a lot of current. For day time running I switch off my headlight (I installed a switch). That gives 55 free extra watts right there. No problems
whatsoever.

I may have my stator rewound or buy an Electrosport in the future but it looks like for 90% of my ridng I'm OK as is. Both are great bikes, the DR a bit
better on the highway and longer rides, the DRZ better in technical dirt.

Good luck!
Thanks so much for both responses!

Thanks so much for all the great info on the alternators of the DR and DRZ, and for the very practical ideas on how to maximize my utility. My Gerbing's, like yours, draws 77 watts and the gloves 36. I never have the controller set more than 2/3 of the way because it's just too hot for me. Most important, you've given me hope it can work out ok with good management technique and that I also have the option to rewind the stator. Also, I plug my batteries in every night.
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Old 11-29-2006, 06:16 PM   #5
Seth S
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The 200 model DRZ400E has a 200 watt output alternator and the 400k is supposed to be a 150 watt output. I have a 2001 and I assume it is the same. That puts the alternator amperage at 16.666 amps. You might be able to put in an adjustable voltage regulator for a little more amperage....but I dont know how the bike would handle that....works well on some cars.
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Old 11-29-2006, 08:27 PM   #6
funkydrum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Django Loco
Both are great bikes, the DR a bit
better on the highway and longer rides, the DRZ better in technical dirt.
Buy the bike that does what you want to ride. As mentioned, Baja Designs can rewind any of those stators.

FWIW, my stock DRZ-S was challenged pushing just my grip warmers...
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Old 11-30-2006, 09:19 PM   #7
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DRZ 400 stock is 180w, Moose aftermarket is 200W. Trust me I know. I run a 90/100 bulb with all the blinkers and tail light on my s/sm DRZ 450. No problems except the Regulator Rectifier wire. WHen you get a DRZ, that should be amongst the first mods...... Hardwire the RR wire and bypass the plug.
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Old 12-01-2006, 06:36 PM   #8
ny-wolcott
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According to my shop manual the DRZ400 output is 15 amps at 7,000 rpms. 15 x 12.5 volts = 187.5 watts at 7,000 rpms. You better figure half of that for average use, unless you always run at high revs.

Dick
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Old 12-01-2006, 08:48 PM   #9
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I was concerned about that, too; and solved the problem by adding a headlight override switch to turn the headlight off when using heated gear. Safety takes a backseat to warmth! So far, no problems with the charging system.
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:38 AM   #10
Fantastic Mister Fox
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I'm looking for an upgrade for the Stator on a DRZ 400 ny recomendations out there??

Thanks
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:33 AM   #11
HighwayChile
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ive heard heated grips on aluminum bars suck a lot of juice.
gerbings also makes heated boot liners that daw very little juice, those and gloves cover your biggest cold problem areas. I am about to order the boot liners they are cheap too.
a few yrs ago I asked gerbing to make liners they emailed back "we have socks, try those" told em, ever go on a ride over a couple days? good on em.

maybe one of you DRZ gurus can answer if there is a higher watt rewind available over the 200w moose , i ve never seen one, maybe there is. might be due to lack of space for additional winding?
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:04 PM   #12
Kommando
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Some of us DR owners have installed LED bulb-replacement modules. I run an LED tail/brake bulb-replacement with a 3-flash-then solid feature that saves about 20W when using the brake(s). This is in a Procycle-sourced DR250 housing, with an LED license-plate light, and complemented with 8" red LED strips on each side of my rear fender. I also replaced my dash illumination with LEDs, and I have 2 auxiliary lights installed that came with 55W H3 bulbs. They now have 1W H3 LED modules in them, so that when I finally install a switch I can turn off the 55W headlight during the day and still be quite visible. The auxiliary lights also give more of a profile from the front at night. I don't have people turning left in front of me, probably because I also employ lateral motion as I approach other vehicles.

Now...That's a savings of over 70W from stock, so far, if we're talking "sitting in traffic on the brakes" (over 50W if we're talking "off the brakes"), and the bike is more visible than stock. I'm also converting my front turn signals to function as marker lights, using LED 1157 replacements. Aerocycle has already done this, and his pics look really good. The LED 1157-replacements will use MAYBE 2W in the marker lights, so I'll still be way ahead of stock electrical efficiency...still around 50W savings, but with WAY better visibility. This 50W is more than enough to power heated gloves with a heat-troller, while a stock DR should be able to power a heated jacket liner on a 'troller.

Another trick being used for better juice is replacing the OEM reg/rect with an efficient MOSFET reg/rect from something like a Honda CBR of certain years.

Some people also use HID setups for their headlight. The HIDs are rated for 35W of usage once lit, but the ballast(s) may use enough wattage to make the power savings nil. The undisputed gain here is in lighting though. HIDs throw a LOT more light than the OEM 55W/60W H4 incandescent bulb. Many claim to have no need of a highbeam after switching to HIDs. With the headlight run on a relay, this could possibly be even brighter, as could even the OEM H4 bulb.

Another nice thing about the LED mods...I can sit on the side of a dark road and be lit up for over an hour without having to run my engine, and my DR will still start. I just turn my key to the "Park" position to light up the rear and sides, then switch on the auxiliary lights to light up the front. This can come in handy if somebody breaks down along a dark highway. Roadside-assistance can find you easily, passing vehicles can avoid you, and you can provide illumination for possible field-fixes.

The extreme ADVers may even be wiring in a dual-battery setup as I type this, what with the small/lightweight Lithium-Ion batteries available today.

I get my LEDs from here, BTW: www.superbrightleds.com, www.autozone.com, and/or www.advanceauto.com.
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