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Old 06-06-2003, 01:25 PM   #1
Clark OP
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Location: Milford, NJ
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How do you make the stoplight cycle?

I just hate setting at a red stoplight, with no cars ahead/behind and have the light not cycle to green, because my bike hasn't trigered the system.

I will just run the light, provided I'm not going to get run over.

Is there any trick to get the light to go green?

Clark
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Old 06-06-2003, 01:35 PM   #2
arethustra
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There's a green light trigger for the bike...I believe they have it at A&S Cycles or Sierra BMW...Hope that helps...
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Old 06-06-2003, 01:37 PM   #3
kehale
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I usually run it after waiting for a bit. I feel guilty, but these are the lights that will NEVER change for me.
I even try manually putting my center stand down to touch the ground near the wires...no go.
-T
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Old 06-06-2003, 01:49 PM   #4
arethustra
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Quote:
Said arethustra:
There's a green light trigger for the bike...I believe they have it at A&S Cycles or Sierra BMW...Hope that helps...
Oops! They had it at CycleGadgets.com, not A&S or Sierra here's the link: Green Light Trigger Hope that helps - Think it might be cheaper at Whitehorse Press...Look around before you but...

-Todd
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Old 06-06-2003, 01:50 PM   #5
dapolrbear
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In California, I believe it is leagal to run it after a considerable amount of time has passed and it has not changed, and when it is safe to do so.

I remember reading it somewhere......
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Old 06-06-2003, 02:12 PM   #6
SteveAZ
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Those green light thingys - let's say I'm a skeptic.

There's some lights near me that those things doubtful would help with even if they aren't snake oil. With he 1100, they sense me when I'm moving; I can see the walk signal change, but then it doesn't realize I'm still there and just ignores me after that. The car works correct and the KLR won't even do the initial trip.

I have some big, very powerful magnets I might just play around with for fun, but I just think magnets on your bike is a vain attempt.


Many jurisdictions consider them a "malfunctioning traffic control device" when they don't trip for you meaning you are suppose to deal with them as a one way stop sign. I just blow them. I've been pulled over twice for it and was pretty rude to the cops about it and haven't received any tickets, just a "calm down a bit please".
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Old 06-06-2003, 02:18 PM   #7
kevbo
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Aluminum wheels appear as a shorted turn which amounts
to "negitive iron" to the detectors. With not too much iron on the GS to compensate, I have found a number of lights which can't see me.

How to maximize your detector signiture at no cost:

Look for the loop cuts in the pavement.

They are arrainged in a long figure-8 pattern.

Pull up with wheels on the center of the 8, yup, right in
the oil stripe. Sorry about that. Catch bike on right leg (Which is opposite what I normally do)

Catch the center stand with your toe, and hold it down
with one leg resting on each loop of the 8.

I know of one light for sure that this makes the difference....It is on my daily commute, and if I am there off peak (no car to help me) then it will not trigger until I drop the stand.

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Old 06-06-2003, 02:25 PM   #8
RubberDown
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I've tried the Green Light Trigger thingy on a K75 and my 1150GS without any help. I'm sure they'd work on certain types of lights, but they don't do shit on the ones near me. I've called the local streets department and complained on a few occasions and was told they'd take a look at the lights and check the sensitivity settings. After the adjustments failed to make improvements, I called again and was told that they could adjust the lights where they would even pick up a bicycle but they'd start getting false readings for traffic passing thru the lights that would trigger it to change when no one was even waiting at the light.

Eric
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Old 06-06-2003, 02:38 PM   #9
K2R
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In Tennessee this passed General Assembly

FYI Tennessee recently passed a law that allows motorcyclists to run automated traffic signals that don't change after a reasonable wait. I've always done this anyway, but now its legal.
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Old 06-06-2003, 02:42 PM   #10
RockyRaccoon
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You can achieve the same or better effect as one of those store-bought green light triggers by attaching a decent-sized magnet or piece of iron to the bottom of your bike someplace.
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Old 06-06-2003, 03:10 PM   #11
mleir
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MN has also passed a run the red light law now too.
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Old 06-06-2003, 04:48 PM   #12
DakotaDakar
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I've had the Green Light Trigger magnets on three different bikes. Finally concluded they don't do anything. (OK, so I'm a slow learner.)
Dd
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Old 06-06-2003, 05:32 PM   #13
zouch
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i wouldn't expect a magnet as weak as those Green Light Triggers to work from as far away as they'd be on the bottom of our GSs... you might have better luck with a real magnet (like one out of an old hard drive), but IIRC, a magnets effectiveness decreases exponentially as distance from the measuring point is increased and i wouldn't expect much from them anyway.

frankly, i like Kevbos method best; get some steel down near the loops to be 'sensed' by the detector loops. might work even better to put some magnets on that stand to disrupt the flux of the sensor even further, eh?

trivia; here in Kalifornia, some municipalities actually carry around an old cruiser bicycle in the truck that's used to adjust the loops in order to get the sensitivity high enough to pick up a bicycle. (doesn't help much for my aluminum or carbon fiber MTBs, but i appreciate the effort anyway...) :):
with that in mind, i have no idea what the guys that were talking to Eric/RubberDown were talking about,... cross-traffic setting off the detectors; indeed!

more trivia; all the loops i see here in the Bay Area are either square with diagonal cross-hatching or pure circles; no figure 8s.

motor cops i've discussed this issue with have had some interesting and varying input; i've been told that if a light didn't change for me i should just make a right turn (from the left lane, no less!) and make a U-turn to come back. other's have told me that they understand, and that i should just wait a "few cycles" of the light and then go carefully.

when bicycling, i've found that if the sensor didn't pick me up (on my steel bikes) i could lay the bike down so that the top tube of the bike was parallel to the edge loop of the sensor and that would almost always work. considering that most of those bikes only contained about 4 lbs of steel total, it kinda' points to the fact that proximity to the sensor loop makes a great difference; that's why i like kevbos method so much.

DPBear; if you could find some CVC section that supports what you think you remember reading and then share it with us, that would be greatly appreciated.

DD; woulnd't call that "slow learner" let's call it 'determined and faithful'... :):


cheers!
e
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Old 06-06-2003, 05:43 PM   #14
frewhl
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lots of new lights

our city has just installed all new lights on the maine drag.
poles and underground conduit so far.
all are supposed to be connected together for flow of traffic.
the individual "smart lights" already installed here do not work well for me.
we had a big dumb city planner for so long,he has now moved on to a much smaller town (poor them).I rember him talking up this project long ago.I hope his mark is not on it.
I do hope they use the LED type lights.I am color vision deficient and those show up very well.
about smart lights,i find more people running these because they are so quick to turn yellow if the second car is not tailgating.
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Old 06-06-2003, 07:16 PM   #15
Snail-Darter
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Magnetic flux meets electrical hoop.
1) magnet needs to be moving to generate the pulse needed.
2) I believe E/M forces drop off as 1/(distance)^2 so the closer to the ground the better. This isn't so good for the GS which sits up pretty high.

I have obtained a magnet from some old semiconductor manufacturing equipment - its about 1/2 x 3/4 x 1.5". You can't pull the damm thing straight off once its on steel - you have to slide it off.
I've got it on the cross bar of my centerstand above my pennytech alum skidplate - so far I haven't missed any lights (but I still need to check one which used to give me trouble)
If that light works then I'll be a believer. If it doesn't work the first time I'll try pushing the centerstand down while I come up to the stop.

Before I'd buy a greenlight I'd find some geek electronics/hobby website and pick something else up for about $2.00. No SPAM intended but a couple of these might do the trick glued to the skidplate.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bi...-73&type=store
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