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Old 12-26-2006, 11:39 AM   #61
markgsnw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe
Listen -take your head out of your arse, and read the the thread.

The link i use isn't the same as the BMW cat code plug, or why would i have taken it out and used the link i made - think about it. Whats the point .
The only reason for showing you the picture of the bmw plug was to save you people money. Just use the links to whatever plug you want to use, and don't waste your money buying the bmw plug. Because all the cat code plugs, no matter what configuration are just links as in the picture.


This guy you talk about (me) runs his own independant BMW repair business, and has done for over 20 years. So i must be doing something right. How you doing shite for brains

dude, all I'm after is what map you're calling up by jumping the two connectors.


my background: a computer guy who blew up a lot of IC's and PROMs in engineering school. That experience makes me understandably cautious about jumping any two leads on a circuit.


my bike had no jumper from the factory and my understanding has been that no jumper is the richest/least restrictive mapping (to simplify a complex subject).


so again, what I'm asking is: what map does jumping these two connectors enable?


A bit of background #2: in the 90's I owned a Honda, someone had the bright idea of drilling out the end plate in the silencer for better sound and performance. A dozen people in the group tried it before reporting back that it made the bike sound like a lawn mower and run like crap. And it was irreversable, so they had to go out and buy new silencers.


So a bit of caution isn't a bad thing.


I don't have my head up my ass any further than normal, I'm just asking a logical question that has not been answered in the thread. If you don't know, that's fine.
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Old 12-27-2006, 10:37 AM   #62
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here's a similar thread on the UK site. Seems like this isn't a universal "works better" mod, more like "may or may not."
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Old 12-31-2006, 08:03 AM   #63
rattlecan
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My 01 GS

I gotta say, I've tried everything else recommended on this board and this is the first thing tha't s stopped pinging between 4 and 5K. The right side knock has all but disappeared also. It's a little cold these days, but still seems to be running better than ever with this mod.

Thanks Steptoe.
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Old 12-31-2006, 10:08 AM   #64
markgsnw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rattlecan
if you can't tell from the picture, i'd leave your bike alone.

+1

If you can't tell by the guys history that he knows what he's talking about or can't trust information given by the knowledgable guys on this forum, why ask questions? I'd be dead in the water if it weren't for guys like him.

why ask questions? yes, that's the right approach. never ask questions.
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Old 12-31-2006, 09:04 PM   #65
bacon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbemotumbo
I'll jump in here if I may. The noted setting makes it just a bit richer across the curve. This also corresponds to that chart from the bbpower settings for slight perf mods. I verified this by plug reading. Stock (and good state of tune otherwise), plugs were dry & white. Linked as above and in the midst of a ride, the plugs were a very light tan, dry. Post mod idle is also notably richer and very smooth. Great off idle transition. No surging anywhere.

This tells me the increased richness is slight and should not gob things up over time. Also, I think my bike could be a tad more rich without detriment. My only concern is that when the temps go up, my pinking may come back to some degree unless I can richen it up a bit more. Might have to experiment with some other links, as noted in prev posts. I'll worry over it when the time comes. This change is indeed a big improvement.

Edit - and to Bacon's question. No cat code plug is the richest setting of all. Don't know what to tell you if it's still lean.
Thank you that is exactly what I need to know.
Thanks Again
Tim
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Old 01-01-2007, 03:24 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rattlecan
I gotta say, I've tried everything else recommended on this board and this is the first thing tha't s stopped pinging between 4 and 5K. The right side knock has all but disappeared also. It's a little cold these days, but still seems to be running better than ever with this mod.

Thanks Steptoe.
Bob,
Make me a jumper and call when its ready.
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Old 01-01-2007, 05:10 PM   #67
rattlecan
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Time to break out the GS's and terrorize the high desert! Just unplug the yellow thingy and toss it. If it still pings, call 911.
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Old 01-01-2007, 09:51 PM   #68
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911
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Old 04-02-2008, 09:14 AM   #69
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe
How you guys managed to land on the moon i'll never know
Over here in the colonies, we're pretty smart blokes....we were able to land on the moon Without your help, thank you.

Now, let's talk about Lucas Electrics, BSA, Triumph, Norton, Amal carbs and the others....

Changing dashpot oil?.......ridiculous!
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:57 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbemotumbo
I've done alot of digging, and there seems to be no real listing of BMWs maps buried in the motronic. I can tell you steptoes mod transformed my 03 GSA. They don't ALL do that anymore!

I found a product that some UK GSers have used (bbpower chip), and the instruction sheet seems to indicate several different settings possible via jumper, but I haven't tried em, so can't be sure. Makes me wonder if the product is mostly just a jumper too! Once I saw the steptoe mod worked so well I quit thinking about it. here is the info for those who wish to pursue it.
So, what does removing it all together do? Can I use a jumper to increase fuel delivery instead of removing all together? I wonder which one advances the timing the most in addition to adding the most fuel?

Chris
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Old 06-02-2008, 11:10 AM   #71
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k, just observed mine and the plug isn't there, so am I right to assume that in order for me to fix the surging, I still need additional fuel and would require a power commander, techlusion, rhinewest, etc to make it work right?

Chris
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Old 08-29-2008, 04:49 PM   #72
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My understanding is; That no cat code plug runs the engine on the base line map. It is not necessarily the richest map, just the one stored in the computer for the base line. It takes 02 sensor inputs and matches them up to the pre-programmed map for fuel/air and timing. If you use a cat code plug or jumper then you are changing base line maps to one the other 8 maps that are, richer, leaner, have changed timing etc.
If you run a cat code plug and power commander, then you are running a preprogrammed (cat code controlled) map when you are not under acceleration (closed loop, i.e. data is coming from the computer) when under acceleration then you are using the power commander map to enrich or lean the mixture. While the timing curve is still controlled by the selected map.
The techlusion 259 unit alters the signal coming from the 02 sensor and enriches and leans the mixture by lying to the computer, which is still using the selected map. Thus the jumpers or cat code plug will alter the whole profile for the techlusion and alter only the closed loop portion of the map for the power commander.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, I really want to understand this 100%

The question then is, which of the 8 available maps (accessible by jumper or cat code settings) is best for your bike and it's configuration?
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Old 08-29-2008, 09:41 PM   #73
johnjen
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One of the reasons we wrote OVAD (and the other related writeups) was to help with 'driveability' issues. When all of the adjustments that affect the breathing of the engine are tweaked, matched and optimized, the tendency to ping is reduced.

An example of this can be demonstrated by the fact that my engine (50K+ miles) is and has been running at near max advance all of it's life. The only pinging I have experienced was at altitude (≈2000+ ft), in the heat (100+), on a grade, in hot pursuit. When I downshifted the pinging ceased.

It is possible to 'tune out' the tendency to ping without having to resort to aftermarket engine modifications, but it does require careful and deliberate attention to details.

JJ
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:44 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltar
As a 1984 Electrical Engineer graduate (with honors I may add) from Texas A&M University I can, with qualifications, state that is a pretty crappy design for a relay.
As a ME from ASU (Go Sundevils), I can say that the relay in question is not a NO or NC type but an AC design, (always closed) and is extremely reliable inasmuch as there are no moving parts (TAMU indeed!).
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:48 PM   #75
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While this is rather old information, the late Rob Lentini provided insight into the MAPs in our BMWs.

http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads...ng-fixes.shtml
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