Official Nighthawk thread - Page 228

The Kurgan · 06-12-2012, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longboardr

Posted my '99 Nighthawk 750 for sale here

Now that's a bargain. Beautiful bike. She will sell quickly I'm sure.

onewheeltwo · 06-12-2012, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drdubb

I've done the repair. You need good eyesight b/c that spring is small and a very fine tipped soldering iron. I found that laying a washer on the spring while soldering helped.

I've attempted the repair. My eyes are getting older, and the tip I had could've been finer. Fail.

You'd also need a third hand to make it less frustrating

onewheeltwo · 06-12-2012, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tourniquet

speaking of too tight

Seriously?

Bnick3 · 06-12-2012, 06:35 PM

Those cases look great, now you will come across the OEM ones. My first street bike ride was on one just like this, but blue. Beautiful bike!

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtackett

After years of searching for OEM hard cases for my Nighthawk S, I gave up and bought some top loading universal cases and made the mounting brackets.

Tourniquet · 06-18-2012, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Kurgan

I don't hear mine contact the rotor, though it did on some of my previous motorcycles. Personally, I would replace the pads regardless and inspect the rotor to ensure there are no irregularities. While you're at it, add a stainless line -- an easy way to get more out of the front brake.

I took the top off the bake master cylinder to check the fluid and it seemed to stop the rubbing for a day - but it came back.

I have heard a few people mention the braided line as a good upgrade - what kit did you use?

The Kurgan · 06-19-2012, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tourniquet

I took the top off the bake master cylinder to check the fluid and it seemed to stop the rubbing for a day - but it came back.

I have heard a few people mention the braided line as a good upgrade - what kit did you use?

Spiegler now makes them. The difference will be marginal, but every bit helps!
I would suspect that a rotor upgrade in conjunction with a SS brake line will make a noticeable improvement.

http://nighthawk-forums.com/brakes-t...-03-nighthawk/

drdubb · 06-21-2012, 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tourniquet

I took the top off the bake master cylinder to check the fluid and it seemed to stop the rubbing for a day - but it came back.

I have heard a few people mention the braided line as a good upgrade - what kit did you use?

I got mine from cycle brakes.com. Phone them to make aure you get the correct length.

Tourniquet · 06-21-2012, 09:07 AM

Thanks - I think I will order the spiegler one.

cats · 06-23-2012, 09:36 PM

My new-to-me NH ready for my weekend trip:

Here it is "nekkid"::

CL77 · 06-25-2012, 06:07 AM

Troubleshooting question...

So I'm out in the sticks yesterday, noodling around and I started to get a vibration at
about 60 mph or over...it's not the forks or the front end and does not seem to be
a stability issue. I could feel it in my helmet. Everything below 60 is good.

Engine pulls strong.

I wonder if a wheel weight came off the back tire. I eyeballed it and couldn't see anything
that was different. The rear wheel does not seem loose.

This is the first time that it happened. I stayed off the interstates on the way back home
and had no trouble going under 60.

Any help would be appreciated.

The Kurgan · 06-25-2012, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CL77

Troubleshooting question...

So I'm out in the sticks yesterday, noodling around and I started to get a vibration at
about 60 mph or over...it's not the forks or the front end and does not seem to be
a stability issue. I could feel it in my helmet. Everything below 60 is good.

Engine pulls strong.

I wonder if a wheel weight came off the back tire. I eyeballed it and couldn't see anything
that was different. The rear wheel does not seem loose.

This is the first time that it happened. I stayed off the interstates on the way back home
and had no trouble going under 60.

Any help would be appreciated.

I would immediately inspect the chain, sprockets, rear tire alignment.

CL77 · 06-25-2012, 07:42 AM

Good point. I did have a new chain put on about 300 miles ago.
It could need to be adjusted...

Tourniquet · 06-25-2012, 07:01 PM

If you could feel it in your helmet it would seem to be rear suspension / chain and drive like mentioned. Of course it could just be the helmet at 60 mph...

I have a clicking sound that seems to be coming from the front right cylinder. Maybe a lifter or a valve seat? I should post a youtube video of the sound - its pretty constant with RPM until higher rev's then I can't hear it anymore.

CL77 · 06-26-2012, 05:56 AM

Thanks. I don't have the mechanical expertise that many have here, but I know that the
first thing to look at is what has changed.

The only thing was the new chain. Same helmet, same everything else. So I'll start with
that and then move to suspension, rear tire, etc.

tlm · 06-28-2012, 06:06 AM

First post.............2001 purchased new, 54,000 trouble free miles. Mods are National Cycle W/S, bar risers, lowered footpegs, Progressive rear shocks, modified rack to accomodate Givi box. Best stock seat ever made!

06-23-2012, 09:36 PM	#3414
cats n00b Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Raleighwood, NC Oddometer: 6	My new-to-me NH ready for my weekend trip: Here it is "nekkid":: cats screwed with this post 06-27-2012 at 07:34 PM

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06-21-2012, 09:07 AM	#3413
Tourniquet Adventurer Joined: Aug 2011 Location: NYC Oddometer: 65	Thanks - I think I will order the spiegler one.

06-25-2012, 06:07 AM	#3415
CL77 Adventurer Joined: Feb 2006 Oddometer: 75	Troubleshooting question... So I'm out in the sticks yesterday, noodling around and I started to get a vibration at about 60 mph or over...it's not the forks or the front end and does not seem to be a stability issue. I could feel it in my helmet. Everything below 60 is good. Engine pulls strong. I wonder if a wheel weight came off the back tire. I eyeballed it and couldn't see anything that was different. The rear wheel does not seem loose. This is the first time that it happened. I stayed off the interstates on the way back home and had no trouble going under 60. Any help would be appreciated.

06-25-2012, 07:42 AM	#3417
CL77 Adventurer Joined: Feb 2006 Oddometer: 75	Good point. I did have a new chain put on about 300 miles ago. It could need to be adjusted...

06-25-2012, 07:01 PM	#3418
Tourniquet Adventurer Joined: Aug 2011 Location: NYC Oddometer: 65	If you could feel it in your helmet it would seem to be rear suspension / chain and drive like mentioned. Of course it could just be the helmet at 60 mph... I have a clicking sound that seems to be coming from the front right cylinder. Maybe a lifter or a valve seat? I should post a youtube video of the sound - its pretty constant with RPM until higher rev's then I can't hear it anymore.

06-26-2012, 05:56 AM	#3419
CL77 Adventurer Joined: Feb 2006 Oddometer: 75	Thanks. I don't have the mechanical expertise that many have here, but I know that the first thing to look at is what has changed. The only thing was the new chain. Same helmet, same everything else. So I'll start with that and then move to suspension, rear tire, etc.

06-28-2012, 06:06 AM	#3420
tlm Adventurer Joined: Jun 2012 Location: Sunny San Diego Oddometer: 20	First post.............2001 purchased new, 54,000 trouble free miles. Mods are National Cycle W/S, bar risers, lowered footpegs, Progressive rear shocks, modified rack to accomodate Givi box. Best stock seat ever made!