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Old 03-02-2011, 06:52 PM   #19246
brownie2
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Not much help here but on an empty system, push fluid up from the bottom using a large syringe. Attach the syringe with a small felx hose to the bleeder nipple. Just go slow until you get fluid in the res. and your done!!!!!!!!
If I were you, I would drain what I could and then push up from the bottom. Or you could just open the bleeder and the res.(yeah, I can't spell it) and let it sit while your doing other things. Just keep the reservoir(sp) topped up.
The less lever action the better on a dry or empty system.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:00 PM   #19247
Tukata
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Pull the caliper off the wheel without breaking the system.
check around the piston for any fluid...you may have messed up the o ring and it may be leaking.... or the master cylender may have a failing seal

money is on air though
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:05 PM   #19248
Willy-B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gallowbraid View Post
This released quite a few more bubbles...but still no go...pumped until there were no bubbles...closed the bleeder valve back up...still not even spongy...tried again...tapped on the line and any parts where I felt air could get trapped...sealed back up...still nothing...
And the sytem was good before you started???

Check and double check.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:22 PM   #19249
Brown Dog
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You CAN'T bleed air down hill [air rises] to the bleeder screw

Quote:
Originally Posted by brownie2
...
push fluid up from the bottom using a large syringe. Attach the syringe with a small felx hose to the bleeder nipple. Just go slow until you get fluid in the res. and your done!!!!!!!!
...
Follow Brownie2 [am i brownie1?] instructions [only way to bleed any system]
Just remember to tighten the bleeder screw BEFORE removing the hose .

Use a clear hose to where you can see the fluid flowing with NO bubbles

Use a clean rag to absorb the dirty fluid OUT of the Reservoir until CLEAN Fluid fills it up

I had to do this Repair to my Hyd Clutch, at the last Fuzzy Beaver Ride

Buy the Large Sirenge from a Feed & Seed Store. Farmers use em

.
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Brown Dog screwed with this post 03-02-2011 at 07:32 PM
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:23 PM   #19250
Al Tuna
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Pump hold lever in, open bleeder then close bleeder before releasing lever, add fluid if needed and repeat. over and over and over.... until the air is out and you have a solid lever.

Never release the lever or pump while the bleed valve is open.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:34 PM   #19251
Gallowbraid
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Thanks for the help fellas...figured it out...when I've done this in the past whatever bleeder valve I've dealt with I've just barely opened it...makes it easier to close without letting air in. Apparently on this KLR you have to open that sucker up all the way to get absolutely all the air out...did that and everything is working fine.

I guess it was holding back some of the air in the line not being wide open...huh...
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:40 PM   #19252
Brown Dog
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Talking Just Kiddn

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gallowbraid
...
on this KLR ...
I didnt know KLR's needed Brakes

Dag's said so
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:49 PM   #19253
Land
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gallowbraid View Post
Would have one, but the neighbor that I went to borrow it from has already loaned it out, hasn't gotten it back, and forgot who it went to...
Didja look in your garage for it?

Glad you got 'em bled. They do come in handy.

Chris
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:50 PM   #19254
tagalong
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Best way I've found

I tried the syringe from the bottom method to no avail.

What I finally found worked best was to attach a clear hose to the bleeder valve and raise it to a height just below the master cylinder. While holding the end of the hose high, I opened the bleeder to allow the system to gravity bleed. When you see the fluid level rise to the top of the hose and about to run over, close the bleeder. Do a regular "pump & bleed" to finish it off.
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:53 PM   #19255
Gallowbraid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Dog View Post
I didnt know KLR's needed Brakes

Dag's said so

Actually I carry two bricks tied to a rope in my milk crate panniers...when I want to stop I reach in and toss them behind me...the rope is tied off to the subframe...it takes some getting used to for the timing, but with a KLR you have to make sacrifices.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:38 AM   #19256
DirtDabber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gallowbraid View Post
...... but with a KLR you have to make sacrifices.


Image

Dating.

Friends.

.....


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Old 03-03-2011, 05:27 AM   #19257
phideaux
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Dog View Post
Follow Brownie2 [am i brownie1?] instructions [only way to bleed any system]
Just remember to tighten the bleeder screw BEFORE removing the hose .

Use a clear hose to where you can see the fluid flowing with NO bubbles

Use a clean rag to absorb the dirty fluid OUT of the Reservoir until CLEAN Fluid fills it up

I had to do this Repair to my Hyd Clutch, at the last Fuzzy Beaver Ride

Buy the Large Sirenge from a Feed & Seed Store. Farmers use em

.
.
.
What do you know about farmers?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Dog View Post
I didnt know KLR's needed Brakes

Dag's said so
Brakes? KLR's come with brakes?
Who'd a thunk it?
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:05 AM   #19258
Magnum1b
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Picked up an EVS jersey and knee/shin guards at CG for under $105 today. Wjen you get to be my age you need mo protection cause the old body doesn't heal as fast as it did when I was younger.
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Old 03-03-2011, 01:02 PM   #19259
klaviator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum1b View Post
Picked up an EVS jersey and knee/shin guards at CG for under $105 today. Wjen you get to be my age you need mo protection cause the old body doesn't heal as fast as it did when I was younger.
And you should Know!



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Old 03-03-2011, 01:54 PM   #19260
Magnum1b
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I cannot deny, however you should be kind to us elders. ; )
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