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Old 05-22-2011, 07:16 AM   #211
Misery Goat
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fwiw, I've noticed since cleaning my jet the neutral light is harder to locate. No problem finding neutral but the light doesn't seem to always come on like it did.

Don't know if the clutch jet impacts the functionality of the neutral sensor or not. they seem like separate issues to me.
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Old 05-22-2011, 07:29 AM   #212
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Originally Posted by tomdubz View Post
Maybe I missed it but it's worth repeating. I'm a big fan of the shopvac crevice tool removal technique. Maybe it's not the most efficient but it's still fun.

take a 2' piece of fuel line and hold one end in the hose of your shop vac (sela the rest of the vac hose with your hand) stick the other end of the fuel line in the hole for the oil jet and the jet will stick to the end of the fuel line, works like a charm.
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:29 AM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Hills View Post
take a 2' piece of fuel line and hold one end in the hose of your shop vac (sela the rest of the vac hose with your hand) stick the other end of the fuel line in the hole for the oil jet and the jet will stick to the end of the fuel line, works like a charm.
Or just use your mouth and suck through it like you would a straw... Just as effective.. Without having all the hassle of getting the shop Vac. Out.
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:03 AM   #214
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Originally Posted by SFKLR View Post
The jet hole is so damn small, I can barely see through it. Seriously, I don't know if a human hair can get through there, let alone a guitar string. Since I could see light, I figured it was good, and I put it back in. Hope it's OK. NOt sure I did anything to help it. In fact, it appears I tweaked the copper slot a bit. At least i didn't torque the crap out of it going back in. Hope she shifts OK tomorrow.
Not to be a smart arse, but when you take it out you might want to clean it, rather than just look at it. Blow some carby cleaner or kerosine etc through it or a fine guitar string to make sure it's clear. You may have just been able to see through it, but it still could have been slightly clogged.
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:08 AM   #215
madbiker1
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Dell'orto Jet Sizing

OK, I did my jet yesterday. I had noticed a few months back that the shifting suddenly got notchier and wasn't butter smooth but had no idea why. I came across this thread a couple weeks back and decided to do it. I think it was plugged but I used a strand of electrical wire to clean it out. Sprayed it with carb cleaner and it seems to be fine. Reinstalled. I did struggle a bit to get the jet out of the hole but after finding one bobbipin, that was the answer - by far the easiest tool I found to use after trying a bunch.
I haven't taken the bike for a run to see if it makes a difference as it's still in pieces until the suspension gets back but I was mulling over the idea of getting a larger jet as I do a fair bit of slow speed clutch riding. I'd like to get a .040 and a .050 to experiment with and I don't want to drill. I was thinking about heading down to my local Lordco to see if I could get such a thing today - as I'm very impatient
On ebay, I saw two different sizes of 6413 Dell'orto main jets listed - one a 6mm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/dellorto-t...item5d2dd40c9a and one an 8mm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/dellorto-t...item20b7b416bc

Which do I want? And for a .040 and a .050, which Dell'orto number does it relate to?
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:19 AM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madbiker1 View Post
...
Which do I want? And for a .040 and a .050, which Dell'orto number does it relate to?
Look at this first:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=84

That specific issue is discussed in the HOW

"The oil jet selected by the engineers at Mattighofen for the 950/990 Adventure is a compromise based on the assumption that the bike will be used mainly on the street and gravel/dirt roads. If the bike is used hard (ie: slipping the clutch to manuver tight trails or get through rough terrain or deep sand, or racing conditions) the clutch jet size should be increased (.40 - .50mm) and possibly some modifications to the inner clutch hub made (AKA the Feliciani Mods) to accomodate the extra abuse. Don't go too big; unless you're racing the bike, the 1.0 mm size Feliciani talks about for desert racing is too big for non-racing use. Be advised that some "streetability" may be compromised even with the .40- .50mm sizes (ie: hard to find neutral, clunky shifting at slow speed, etc.). Best to start small and work your way up. Have a spare .030mm so you can go back down when you get too big."
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:36 AM   #217
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[QUOTE=AdvGa;16880838]Look at this first:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=84

That specific issue is discussed in the HOW [/QUOTE=AdvGa;16880838]


Sorry, when I said "what size do I want," I was referring to the head size of 6mm or 8mm. I want to try BOTH the .40 and the .50 hole size.
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Old 01-17-2012, 02:42 AM   #218
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Just wanted to say thanks for all the info here.
Was experiencing some hard upshifts, and the other day I couldn't
get it any higher then 3rd. At least I only had 10 miles to get home.

So after searching around I thought the worst, damaged shift roller wall.
But after running some fine wire through the oil jet and adding a 1/2 quart,
its shifts great now. My sight glass was reading correct level, until I cleaned
the jet, then it needed about a 1/2 quart to get to max at temp. Seems like
I was starving my trans of oil.

I recommend this for anyone experiencing hard shifting.
From now on that thing gets reamed every oil change.
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Old 01-19-2012, 03:03 AM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtypumpkin View Post
Just wanted to say thanks for all the info here.
Was experiencing some hard upshifts, and the other day I couldn't
get it any higher then 3rd. At least I only had 10 miles to get home.

So after searching around I thought the worst, damaged shift roller wall.
But after running some fine wire through the oil jet and adding a 1/2 quart,
its shifts great now. My sight glass was reading correct level, until I cleaned
the jet, then it needed about a 1/2 quart to get to max at temp. Seems like
I was starving my trans of oil.

I recommend this for anyone experiencing hard shifting.
From now on that thing gets reamed every oil change.
Sorry mate It just does not work the way you are describing it..... And the clutch jet does not lube the transmission. It looks like you were low on oil. It must be an SE thing as the ADV would not suffer this....................................... ....... It still does not make sense tho as the oil level would be controlled by the return pump. When the motor sits it will fill with excess oil from the tank because of the lack of a check valve. When the motor is started the return pump will return the excess oil to the tank. It's return to the motor must be controlled by the incoming pump. A dry sump motor does not depend on oil level in the tank..... in fact it would make no difference whether that tank is 1.5Lt or 3.5Lt as the level of oil in the transmission is controlled by the return oil pump.

If you are due to do a waterpump soon, I would advise you look below the clutch at the round thing with pins through it...... and check that the pins are all in place as that could relate to your 3rd gear problem.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:20 AM   #220
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Is there supposed to be a bolt "cap" that has to be removed before accessing the jet? I went to check the oil jet today and there was nothing covering the hole. I tried inserting a small screw driver but couldn't feel any "slot" to grab to unscrew it. I also tried shooting some WD40 in the hole in case it was full of crud. No luck.

Any ideas?
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:27 AM   #221
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#27 should be covering the jet (#29). If not and you don't have oil spewing all over the place,, you have other problem.

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Old 03-08-2012, 09:34 AM   #222
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Originally Posted by Boatman View Post
#27 should be covering the jet (#29). If not and you don't have oil spewing all over the place,, you have other problem.

Well THAT'S no good. What do you think my plan of attach should be here?

I noticed that area was pretty dirty because it was covered in some oil but I assumed it was just road grime and chain lube. Perhaps the jet is clogged up and not able spew it's blood everywhere.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:24 PM   #223
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Originally Posted by stevodadevo View Post
Well THAT'S no good. What do you think my plan of attach should be here?

I noticed that area was pretty dirty because it was covered in some oil but I assumed it was just road grime and chain lube. Perhaps the jet is clogged up and not able spew it's blood everywhere.

That cap is a socket head (allen),,,, are you sure that's not what you are observing??

If it's that caked up around there, you need to really clean up that area before removing the cap anyway.

If the jet was that clogged, you would have toasted the clutch long ago.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:50 PM   #224
stevodadevo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatman View Post
That cap is a socket head (allen),,,, are you sure that's not what you are observing??

If it's that caked up around there, you need to really clean up that area before removing the cap anyway.

If the jet was that clogged, you would have toasted the clutch long ago.
Looking at that picture, that cap bolt is not there. Unless I'm misunderstanding how the oil jet works, wouldn't there be oil shooting out of the hole without the bolt?

stevodadevo screwed with this post 03-08-2012 at 01:18 PM
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:20 PM   #225
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[QUOTE=stevodadevo;18168702]Looking at that picture, that cap bolt is not there. Unless I'm misunderstanding how the oil jet works, wouldn't there be oil shooting out of the hole without the bolt?[quote]

There is full oil pressure there. Without the bolt, the oil engine oil would probably drained in about 2 minutes.

IIRC, Oil comes in through a port just below the cap. Then it goes down through the jet and through the clutch pushrod to the other side of the engine.

Can you post a pic?
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