Clean the oil jet for clutch lubrication.

[KDCanyonRanch]

Just checked mine and it had a flake of metal crap over it. Never knew, thanks for everyone's posts. Damn that hole is small!

Thanks

[rider914]

Removed and cleaned mine last night. Maybe never been done in over 30k miles. Clutch felt much better cold this morning, and better overall than it has in awhile. Fairly easy procedure (<20 minutes).

Cap and oil jet are hiding behind the c/s sprocket cover.


Sprocket cover, case guard, and clutch slave cyl out of the way.
Ready to remove oil jet cap.


Hi-tech oil jet removal tool.
Jet came out easily, maybe cause the engine was hot.


The clutch oil jet.


Jet seemed to be clogged with mud. Couldn't see any light thru it until poked with a toothbrush brisstle and blown out with carb cleaner.

-M

[cpmodem]

Nice photos rider. Great addition to the collective. A simple operation, butt one that's often overlooked.

[rider914]

Originally Posted by cpmodem

A simple operation, butt one that's often overlooked.

... and possible VERY important.
After cleaning the oil jet, I pulled the outer clutch cover and pressure cap to inspect the clutch booster ramps. They looked like hell. Could be the lack of lubrication contributes to booster wear. But this belongs in a different thread...

-M

[Nightstalker]

A picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks so much!!

tz

Originally Posted by rider914

Removed and cleaned mine last night. Maybe never been done in over 30k miles. Clutch felt much better cold this morning, and better overall than it has in awhile. Fairly easy procedure (<20 minutes).

-M

[gefr]

to 0.50 mm. At a thread describing improvements for the lc8s prepared for Paris-Dakkar race was mentioned boring the oil jets to 1.0mm. That sounds too wide for me but I have it bored to 0.50. Less prone to clogging I guess. Cheers.

[1stiski]

Originally Posted by claferal

My mechanic took a chewgum at the end of the screwdriver and catched the oil jet with it. Easy and effective

I took some sticky bearing grease, put it on a flat rod tip and took her out without issue. I used a good carb spray to clean it then, reinstalled, piece of cake

[RJO]

Decided to check my jet today........

17000miles and the clutch 'slipped' at first when cold. Checked the jet...BLOCKED.

Easily blown through and reassembled. Whole job in a cold and quite dark garage took 40 minutes. DO IT! The job is easy and serves to protect the clutch...

Roger.

[Head2Wind]

adding this to the list of to do on RootKiller's bike... and addition to mine and future services on other bikes. thanks for all the photos Rider.

Ken

[YOGOI]

Another happy de-clogged jet here.
Found some metal flake and a ball of brown goonk in mine.
I wonder how long its been clogged? probably just the last 40,000 miles or so.

[frank wheelbarrow]

What.. no pictures, no step by steps, well it is winter.

Originally Posted by YOGOI

Another happy de-clogged jet here.
Found some metal flake and a ball of brown goonk in mine.
I wonder how long its been clogged? probably just the last 40,000 miles or so.

[spafxer]

If so many oil jets are plugged, what are the chances they are plugged again in a short period of time.

I was wondering if the engine should be run for a very short time with the jet out, but the cap on, to flush any particles in the oil passageway.

Warning: this will lower oil pressure in engine so NO riding this way.

What do you think?

jim

[bobz]

since this plugged so easily the factory needs to come up with a little screen or filter that fits on top of the jet to catch any crap before it blocks that tiny orifice. every time I check it, it plugged. I also run the engine a few seconds with the jet out and then with the jet in and the plug out just to flush out any stuff hanging around. bobz

[cjracer]

I've not had any issues w/ mine. Check it every 10,000 miles.

[batoutoflahonda]

ok so I read this. Pulled mine at 13k. Not plugged.

Got to thinking about this little jet, considering the clutch is on the other side of the engine, this little jet can serve only to keep the bushing and seal wet that the rod passes thru, with out having excess oil pressure blow by the seal.

People experiencing clutch basket wear, well, welcome to KTM. I've had a few KTM dirt bikes, friends who have them. The fingers on the KTM clutch baskets are notorious for having the clutch disks wear groves in them. Best solution is to go with an after market basket, or grind the grooves smooth.

If the clutch grabs when the bike is cold that is normal as the oil is still thick. My '07 Honda CBR does it, my BMWs real wheel spins and they have a dry clutch. All my dirt bikes have done it.

And to all the KTM noobs. Back in the day, before the internet, when KTM was almost like a start up company in the US. Hell, I remember driving 3 hrs to a barn in the middle of BFE Indiana to get a piston and rings. I waited 5 months for a gasket set for a KTM 250EXC once.

Things are a little better. Two things.

1) If your dealer can't get parts. Find another dealer. Odds are the old KTM dealers have a savvy parts guy who KNOWS. (like the one in Hayward CA. [before it burnt] Rock on dude.)

2) Tell 'em to cancel the parts order. Order it yourself off the net, then hand it to them the next day on a platter. Trust me. I've played this game before with BMW. You'll be surprised how fast they get parts.

3) You CAN rebuild the engines with a grinder and an ACE Hardware.