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Old 11-18-2009, 06:24 PM   #31
thechickencow
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I'm looking at this as a winter project for my 03, but am a pretty big n00b with electrics.

First off, thanks for the writeup. My questions are after this amount of time, woudl you still recommend the same parts (centech, ballasts, etc?) Also, is it possible to link or give me specific model numbers for the ballasts and lights?
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:51 PM   #32
dirty_sanchez OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thechickencow
I'm looking at this as a winter project for my 03, but am a pretty big n00b with electrics.

First off, thanks for the writeup. My questions are after this amount of time, woudl you still recommend the same parts (centech, ballasts, etc?) Also, is it possible to link or give me specific model numbers for the ballasts and lights?
Yep, all of the same thing.

I sold the '03 only to pick up an '07. I did the very same upgrade to the new bike.

I used the slimline ballast HID rig this time around and added two more of the same kind of switches for a total of 4 across the dash. One of the unused switches will be for a radiator fan switch and another for a visionX LED light if I ever get around to it.

To source a HID setup for your bike, get on Ebay and search for "H1 HID slimline" and pick the price that's right for you.

I did use 6k color temperature bulbs on the '03, but opted for the 4k to 5k bulbs this time around to have less of that arrest me please bluish tinge to the light quality.

Jeeves says bulbs in the 4k to 5k range give more lumens. The jury is still out though.

Dirty
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Old 11-18-2009, 10:06 PM   #33
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
...

Jeeves says bulbs in the 4k to 5k range give more lumens. The jury is still out though.

Dirty
Heya Dirty,

HERE is a discussion of the HID "color temps" and HIDs in general. Seems fairly well balanced from my perspecitive (i.e. well qualified statements).
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Old 11-19-2009, 05:38 PM   #34
thechickencow
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Thanks for getting back, dirty.

The kits seem to range around $60? Centech around $50? Seems cheaper than I thought it would be.

Tips on where to source the switches? I'll probably wire up for grip heaters although I need to buy them still to install at the same time.
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:49 PM   #35
Loadedagain
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for the count... i got a kit for my truck (f350) with the ultra slim ballasts. it has been in about 8 months and is holding up well. in canada we have daytime running lights so they're on all the time! great light. 6000k if i merember correctly.
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Old 11-19-2009, 07:24 PM   #36
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Get the switches, rubber switch boots, and relays, and a few 4 foot sections of suitable diameter shrink wrap from an industrial electronics supply house.

You'll need 3 relays under the dash to control the headlights/combinations, another mounted under the seat with a mounting tab with a short wood screw through the rear fender. This is the relay that will kill the power to the centech once you turn the key off. If you want to be ready for the just-in-case, mount another not wired to anything to serve as a spare also mounted under the seat.

The relays mounted under the seat have the little mounting tabs and are screwed in place right behind the cross piece on the sub-frame the seat bolt passes through.

Go ahead and do the grips at the same time since every thing will already be apart.

We have a Ralph's Electronics here in town, a national chain. Yellow pages are your friend.

Make sure to have plenty of zip-ties, 4" and 6 to 8" lengths. Liberal use of these things will keep bundled wires together, keep wires from bouncing around, and thanks to reduced bouncing/vibrations the wires should be less likely to become chafed or abraded.

Get your spiral wire wrap to neaten things and protect from abrasion/chafing from Home Depot or Lowe's in the Cable TV/Wiring aisle.

I opted for the centech over the fuzeblock for a few reasons.
Centech is smaller.
Centech is less expensive.
It uses the standard sized automotive blade style fuses available at any quickie mart, walmart, napa, etc.
It does what I need it to do.

While the fuzeblock is larger it does have a relay mounted onto the unit. But if the relay craps out you can't just pop it out and replace it. The relay is hard mounted into the unit-a non-replacable item from what I understand.

The fuzeblock is nifty though because it uses the mini-fuses, the position of the fuses can also be changed to make them switched (controlled by the hard mounted relay) or constant ON. This feature along with the hard mounted relay eliminates all of the other relays I described above.

Dirty
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dirty_sanchez screwed with this post 11-19-2009 at 07:39 PM
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:21 PM   #37
bmwktmbill
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Dirty,
Getting ready for another big trip and need to do at least one HID light. My concern is power usage as I ride with a heated vest and grips full on at night sometimes. In my experience that means only one headlight can burn at a time but can I trust the lights to switch from low to high and back without a blackout period?
Is HID bright enough that I don't need a High beam? I would be OK with one halogen and one HID.

During daylight riding, especially outside North America I usually turn my lights off and run on the parking bulb.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.
thanks. bill
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:24 AM   #38
dirty_sanchez OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill
Dirty,
Getting ready for another big trip and need to do at least one HID light. My concern is power usage as I ride with a heated vest and grips full on at night sometimes. In my experience that means only one headlight can burn at a time but can I trust the lights to switch from low to high and back without a blackout period?
Is HID bright enough that I don't need a High beam? I would be OK with one halogen and one HID.

During daylight riding, especially outside North America I usually turn my lights off and run on the parking bulb.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.
thanks. bill
The blackout period with the digital slim-line ballasts I have mounted on the '07 compared to the thicker non slim-line ballasts that were mounted on the '03 is not near as long.

The blackout with the slim-line is 3 to 5 seconds tops where the thicker ballasts might be 5 to 10 seconds.

Another thing I noticed with the digital slim-line ballasts is that there is no ever so faint electrical hum when you turn the ligts on without the engine running. This isn't something good, or bad, it is just an observation.

To work around the blackout period and keep it virtually non-existant I learned to switch to high beam every 5 to 10 minutes to keep the ballasts charged/warmed up if you will.

Think of the ballasts as a capacitor that slowly leaks their charge if they're not energized every so often.

By toggling back and forth from low to high beam here and there, keeping the high beam ballast charged up, either light is full instant full bright at the flick of a switch.

I've never really considered the blackout period a problem since I learned to work around the issue.

Given the rather limited amount of electricity the 640A makes, installing HID on both headlights along with swapping out all other filament bulbs on the bike is a must-do in my book.

I have a datel volt meter installed on the '03, and then moved it to the '07 when I bought the new bike.

On the '07, the datel seems to indicate this bike has a bit more available electricity than the '03. I can run both lights on with grips on high and still maintain the charging volts at mid to high-13v. I can run one of the headlights, grips on high, and Gerbings jacket at roughly 1/3 on the dial, and still maintain low to mid 13v.

This past August when work sent me out to participate in the Sturgis bike rally/Pirate Festival, I welcomed having both lights on with grips on high every night when I made the 45 minute ride up Vanocker Canyon to the house we rented.

The HID just for the low beam is more than acceptable and makes for a night and day difference when compared to the stock H1 55w filament bulb.

Dirty
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dirty_sanchez screwed with this post 11-22-2009 at 07:40 AM
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:27 PM   #39
bmwktmbill
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Hi Dirty,
Thanks for the post, guess I will go with two Hids and use the high beam sparingly but set it up so both come on at once in high beam mode.

That would give great emergency light and I have toggle on the low beam ground wire so I can shut it down if necessary, running the high beam alone.

That would also give the option of an on board set of spares so that I could rob the high beam system in case I have a low beam system component failure.

Where do you recommend getting the slimline ballasts and bulbs for best quality and price??
I appreciate your work.
Bill
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:40 PM   #40
thechickencow
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Maybe I'm missing something, but couldn't you use the high beam flashing switch (the left index finger one) to 'charge' the ballast before switching? Plus, if you're intending on running both simultaneously it wouldn't be an issue?

Maybe those switches are bypassed with this install?
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Old 11-23-2009, 03:46 PM   #41
dirty_sanchez OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thechickencow
Maybe I'm missing something, but couldn't you use the high beam flashing switch (the left index finger one) to 'charge' the ballast before switching? Plus, if you're intending on running both simultaneously it wouldn't be an issue?

Maybe those switches are bypassed with this install?
You absolutely can use the high beam trigger switch to do the charging trick.

The wiring schematic an Electrical Engineer buddy drew up for this project still allows for use of the trigger, or the high/low beam switch.

Bill- I'd think any seller from Ebay with a reliable solid rating would be a good choice to make your purchase.

PM me with your regular email address if any of you want me to E you a PDF of the wiring schematic.

Dirty
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:48 PM   #42
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thechickencow
Maybe I'm missing something, but couldn't you use the high beam flashing switch (the left index finger one) to 'charge' the ballast before switching? Plus, if you're intending on running both simultaneously it wouldn't be an issue?

Maybe those switches are bypassed with this install?
Hi ya Chickencow,
The trigger use is a great idea. I would prefer to run just one light at a time so the trigger would solve a big problem but coming off high beam there would also be a problem if the low beam ballast cooled. Guess I cold trigger down too.

The hell of darkness(a blackout period) on the highway just cant be tolerated, especially outside the North America where the roads are a life and death affairs during the day, at night things can get almost impossible.

You are right, running two beams solves everything except a possible dead battery. I have killed my battery several times using the trigger excessively while running an electric vest and grips, setting up camp using the parking light for light and then running a tent light off the battery.

Kick, kick, kick in the morning.
bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:59 PM   #43
bmwktmbill
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Dirty,
I looked at thesr two sites,
What do you think?
bill

http://www.vvme.com/

http://www.xenonrider.com/products/h...hid_kits.shtml
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 01-20-2010, 01:03 PM   #44
Geekventure
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Question 35w or 55w?

Should we be looking at the 35 or 55 watt systems?

The original filament bulb is 55w, however, this one Mike mentioned (below) is a 35w, but others are 55w...I'm HIDumfounded?

http://www.brightstar.com.tw/product_info_e.php?UID=688

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
Yep, all of the same thing.

I sold the '03 only to pick up an '07. I did the very same upgrade to the new bike.

I used the slimline ballast HID rig this time around and added two more of the same kind of switches for a total of 4 across the dash. One of the unused switches will be for a radiator fan switch and another for a visionX LED light if I ever get around to it.

To source a HID setup for your bike, get on Ebay and search for "H1 HID slimline" and pick the price that's right for you.

I did use 6k color temperature bulbs on the '03, but opted for the 4k to 5k bulbs this time around to have less of that arrest me please bluish tinge to the light quality.

Jeeves says bulbs in the 4k to 5k range give more lumens. The jury is still out though.

Dirty
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike cramb
I bought a kit (made in china) $179 aust dollars thats about a 100 US.

Just bolted up balast same location as the pics above drilled out the back of the black plastic light fitting and fitted new oversize gromet the tidyed up the loose wires took about an hour to complete. No extra fuses switches or drilling holes in my dash very simple.

The brand is "Brightstar TW" I got mine through Autostream one of the ozzie moderators.

Have done 3000ks off road since very happy very reliable.,

MIKE

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Old 01-20-2010, 05:36 PM   #45
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I'd go the 35w version.

These bikes aren't blessed with electrons.

Dirty
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