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Old 03-08-2010, 07:07 AM   #61
mars
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I think the most likely place for a short is in the wire to the junction block, tank rub, moving cables etc.
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:36 AM   #62
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mars
I think the most likely place for a short is in the wire to the junction block, tank rub, moving cables etc.
That's right, now i remember you used a Molex connector.

I will probably just hack right into the harness for the relays and switched power.

Do you plan to run both lights at once?
bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:54 PM   #63
mars
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I am just overly cautious. I did realize that i misplaced the directions for my HID's tonight but i think i have this figured out.
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Old 03-18-2010, 05:54 PM   #64
thechickencow
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Anybody buy any kits recently from ebay that they'd recommend? I'm looking at a few and wonder if any are better than the rest.
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:33 AM   #65
bmwktmbill
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There is another lighting thread running, some more good info there.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=556358

Try searching vvme.com for parts.
4 days from Beijing

I just bought from them. Two light kits, 2 relay kits, spare bulb.
Good shit but It ISN'T plug and play on your KTM.
You better me a good DC man and handy with the iron.
Took me a couple of days.

I used a 3 position switch for various light configurations.


bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley

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Old 03-27-2010, 09:55 PM   #66
mars
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i just finished mine tonight, i have some things to tidy up tomorrow. about the time i was finished i realized that only i could take this thing apart and hook it back up. I am going to count the wires tomorrow and put a molex plug in between the bike and the dash board.
I ended up dual wiring the high beam with the the relay being activated by the high switch or a dashboard switch and abandoned the low beam wire and replaced it with a switch only. That way i can turn the lights off during the day.
i did get the slim ballast and they fire immediately, no delay.
there was quite a bit of thought that went into this, i think i will just buy another bike next time.
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:03 PM   #67
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mars
i just finished mine tonight, i have some things to tidy up tomorrow. about the time i was finished i realized that only i could take this thing apart and hook it back up. I am going to count the wires tomorrow and put a molex plug in between the bike and the dash board.
I ended up dual wiring the high beam with the the relay being activated by the high switch or a dashboard switch and abandoned the low beam wire and replaced it with a switch only. That way i can turn the lights off during the day.
i did get the slim ballast and they fire immediately, no delay.
there was quite a bit of thought that went into this, i think i will just buy another bike next time.
Mars,
Mine is done too, and redone...it was a total bitch like you said. I'll try to post some pics later and a wiring description as soon as they take the restraints off me. (two fuses, two relays, two hot wires, a three position switch, enlarged the bulb holes, new battery, new headlight protector, 15 feet of wire color coded, a roll of solder, slimline ballasts, one million dead brain cells).
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley

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Old 01-03-2011, 05:24 PM   #68
BRYANDENNY71
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I just did an HID upgrade on my high & low on my '99 640A.

I'm trying to figure out a simple way to keep all of the stock wiring & switches & still be able to run both lights when I switch the high beam on.

Its a '99 so I already have the option on the key to have the headlight off with the bike running. Then I can turn the key & turn the low beam on.

I dont plan on running heated grips or jacket so I'm ok with just the only low beam or both high & low option.

Could I get away with this by just running a jumper with a relay from the High beam hot to the low beam hot?

This way I could still run the low beam solo & the relay would keep the high beam from turning on thru the jumper......but when I switch the high beam on the jumper from the high beam hot triggers the relay & keeps the low beam on?????

Or am I way off.....I hate electrical.
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:36 PM   #69
dnrobertson
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Just spent ages trying to get this exact situation working. I gave up. The trouble with our logic is that the wire is bi-directional. When high beam is on, the low beam will come on, but when the low beam is on, the electron can flow along the wire and turn the high beam on.

I think a decent sized diode inserted into the wire would do the trick (to restrict flow to one direction), but I just wired in another relay at this stage.

I also wanted a switch on the dash that would allow me to have:

1. low beam only,
2. high beam only
3. Both low and high on at same time.

I achieved this with a third relay (hey, if two relays are good, three must be better!!), but I plan to revisit this as soon as they take the straight jacket off and let me leave the padded cell.

David.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BRYANDENNY71 View Post
I just did an HID upgrade on my high & low on my '99 640A.

I'm trying to figure out a simple way to keep all of the stock wiring & switches & still be able to run both lights when I switch the high beam on.

Its a '99 so I already have the option on the key to have the headlight off with the bike running. Then I can turn the key & turn the low beam on.

I dont plan on running heated grips or jacket so I'm ok with just the only low beam or both high & low option.

Could I get away with this by just running a jumper with a relay from the High beam hot to the low beam hot?

This way I could still run the low beam solo & the relay would keep the high beam from turning on thru the jumper......but when I switch the high beam on the jumper from the high beam hot triggers the relay & keeps the low beam on?????

Or am I way off.....I hate electrical.
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:14 PM   #70
mars
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Location: El Reno,ok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnrobertson View Post
Just spent ages trying to get this exact situation working. I gave up. The trouble with our logic is that the wire is bi-directional. When high beam is on, the low beam will come on, but when the low beam is on, the electron can flow along the wire and turn the high beam on.

I think a decent sized diode inserted into the wire would do the trick (to restrict flow to one direction), but I just wired in another relay at this stage.

I also wanted a switch on the dash that would allow me to have:

1. low beam only,
2. high beam only
3. Both low and high on at same time.

I achieved this with a third relay (hey, if two relays are good, three must be better!!), but I plan to revisit this as soon as they take the straight jacket off and let me leave the padded cell.

David.
that is pretty much what i did but i added switches to turn the high and low beams off and on independently. I start the bike and turn the low beam on when ready, i can then turn the high beam on with the handlebar switch or do it with the dash switch.
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:40 PM   #71
bmwktmbill
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I bought two relay kits when I got my system from vvme. Please look on this site.

http://www.vvme.com/index.php

That way you can use the stock wiring to trigger each relay and you have separate heavy wires to each ballast and individual fuses on each ballast plus the original fuse on the standard wiring.

I put a 3 position switch on the dash.

With the ignition on I have a position that breaks the low beam ground turning it off, one position that completes the low beam ground allowing it to burn if the low beam switch triggers the relay and a third position that makes the low beam always on including when the high beam is switched on. Now both lights are burning in the high beam switched on position. In this position the low beam can not be turned off unless the ignition is turned off.

This arrangement is proving workable and reliable.

I have:
ignition on/no beams.
ignition on/low beam or high beam depending on lo/hi switch.
ignition on/low beam on in low beam switch position, both beams in hi beam on switch position.


bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley

bmwktmbill screwed with this post 01-03-2011 at 11:51 PM
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:23 AM   #72
BRYANDENNY71
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Is this the relay kit you bought?

http://www.vvme.com/relay-harness-fo....html?cPath=20

So you bought 2 relay kits. Then the normal power from each headlight is wired to a relay....& that triggers the relay which then draws power straight from the battery to fire the ballast.

I'm kind of confused on the 3-way switch. Do you have a little schematic drawn up?

I kind of like that idea, but like I said I kind of wanted to keep it simple & not run all the wiring from the battery.

With the '99 I alread have the option to have the ignition on with the lights off just on the key. Which I like.

The I can have the Lo or High beam on solo with the Lo-High switch on the handlebar.'

But I just want both to switch on when I turn the high beam on. I dont need all of the other options because I have no reason to want the Lo-Beam off when the High-Beam is on because I dont plan on running any other accessories. Plus I dont want to be fumbling with a dash switch while on the road or trail.

Could I get away with a relay wired from my Hi-Beam hot to my Lo-Beam hot. Arent most relays one-way?

I know there is a simple way to do this because my car & my truck both do the same thing.....when you turn the high beam on the low beam turns off. & after some internet research I've found that both can be solved with just jumpers......the car with a jumper in the steering column wiring & the truck with a jumper resistor in the main relay fuse box.
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:27 AM   #73
BRYANDENNY71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnrobertson View Post
Just spent ages trying to get this exact situation working. I gave up. The trouble with our logic is that the wire is bi-directional. When high beam is on, the low beam will come on, but when the low beam is on, the electron can flow along the wire and turn the high beam on.
David.
That would be the reason for a one-way relay on the jumper.

Some.....or most relays, are one-way......I think. haha
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:12 AM   #74
mars
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Here is my wiring diagram. Terminate the low beam from the bike and put a switch for the low beam on the dash if you want. Normally the low beam stays on so there is no reason for that wire. You need two solenoids that are available at RadioShack and a termination box that you can build from their parts too or by one of the aftermarket ones. you will also need to run an additional power lead from the battery, it just makes life easier. the stock one is just too wimpy. use the two relays to run each light and put the high beam wire for the stock bulb in parallel with the other switch on your dash board to the activation terminal of the second high beam solenoid. I turn my low beam on after starting the bike and if i am on a lonely road and want to take a load off the alternator i can just turn it off. one flip of handlebar switch and i get the hight beam. both together are about 70 watts and the stock is around 55 or 60 so the bike can handle this for some time. if you need extended high beam you can just turn the low off with the switch. I also added a third switch for the accessories to run off the upgraded power supply from the battery. the stock power source for the accessory plug is just too small. i also bought a couple of LED's with the resistor included with a pannel mount at RS also and mounted them right near each switch. I have been using this for over a year and love it. They are too bright and even on low beam at night the reflection from street signs hurts my eyes. it is probably worse for the on coming trafic. i plan on putting my headlight protector back on and might even frost it a bit to reduce the intensity. with both on you can light up the world.



updgraded wire with fuse from the battery, i also ran a heavy duty ground


not pretty but shows what i did.

it all worked perfectly from the first time. i did have an issue with the accesory plug until i ran a new ground to the junction box and abandoned the stock ground. this shows how i terminated the low beam from the bike and just added switches between the junction box and the solenoids. i got all the parts i needed at RS since i own one. I hot glued the junction box to the underside of the dash and will probably take the faring off and run a couple of bolts through the mount as i wasn't sure about the placement but it has worked out great.
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:49 AM   #75
BRYANDENNY71
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I just had an idea.

Like I said I'm looking for simplicity & to keep the stock wiring as I dont want to mutilate the wiring harness.

I could just run a jumper with a switch on the dash.

That way I could keep everything stock but just flip the switch & they both come on.

The only bummer is it wouldnt matter whether it was on Lo or High beam & as soon as I hit the jumper switch they would both come on.

But that wouldnt really be that big of a deal cause it doesnt really matter whether I'm pulling power from the the Lo to power the High or Visa-Versa.

O I can go find a jumper wire with a 1-way diode.
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