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Old 01-04-2011, 11:16 AM   #76
mars
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I think you will find the stock wiring is not good enough to strike the lights well. after that surge they don't draw many amps. I thought about this a lot and what i did was the only acceptable and reliable way.
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:25 PM   #77
bmwktmbill
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I think you will find the stock wiring is not good enough to strike the lights well. after that surge they don't draw many amps. I thought about this a lot and what i did was the only acceptable and reliable way.
The vvme link to the relay kit is correct.
Mars is correct, the KTM wiring is inadequate.
Please remember you are deaing with your headlights. If you lose the lights on a dark road you may crash hard.

The reason you need both lights on in the high beam position is because the ballasts take a second or two to warm up when you switch from low to high, with the low beam on you have continuous light.

The lights off ignition on is for kick starting with a dead battery or for daylight off road running.

Single low/single high is for running my heated grips and electric vest.

Study the wiring diagram in this thread. Cut into it with a dash switch for more control.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=556358

Work this ino the plan.
http://www.galco.com/scripts/cgiip.e...=54-013-BP-NTE

Turn the low beam off by breaking the ground wire, override the low beam switch using the dash switch.

My wiring is all taped and zip tied so I can't follow it or exactly remember what I did but it works fine.

This is not simple stuff, it is complex work that requires meter reading and soldering skills at a high level.

Both relay kits needed extensive remodeling. It was NOT plug and play.
bill
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:12 PM   #78
flashover604
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An update on the original posts bike

Hi all. I currently own the bike that dirty did his HID upgrade on, the 2003 on post one. I've replaced both ballasts and bulbs. One ballast went belly up, so I bought a set off of eBay for under $40 shipped, so I went ahead and replaced both ballasts (half as thick as the originals) and both bulbs, just because. They are still amazingly bright.

Last night I had a major problem. I went to head home and had no lights. At all. Nuthin'. Not a flicker, not a click, not a slight glow... Nuthin'. I pulled the seat and was treated to the "I'm thirty miles from home and don't wanna see this" sight of a melted relay, and four wires melted into one technicolor copper filled sheath... Shit.

Ok. Let's trace this out... Ok, battery to relay, melted. Relay to trigger wires, ok. Relay feed to Centech, melted about eight inches from relay.

So... I cut the wire from the Centech until I had fairly decent insulated copper to work with. I now had a raw un relayed feed to the Centech. Unfortunately it was now JUST a bit too short to wrap around the positive screw of the battery with the snorkel still on the air box, so I popped the snorkel off and voila! Just enough. Checked the lights and they worked, until I moved the wire around. Apparently the solder filled shrink wraps made a bit of a "cold solder" joint. Instead of getting the wire hot enough to pull the solder into the strand bundle, it just kinda held them together. I cut the shrink wrap off, scrounged a half inch more wire length from under the tank and tightened her down. Now I had good lights even with the jiggling of the wire.

I put the seat back on without bolting it back down under the rear fender in case I needed to do a rapid assessment en route. Strapped the tank bag back down, and headed on down the road. Both HIDs blazing a bright white hole though the central Ohio deer infested night.

I don't know what happened yet, as I haven't had a chance to do a tear down and rebuild, but I suspect that I pinched the wire from the battery to the relay between the seat and the steel crossbar just behind the battery and gave it a shortcut to ground. When I rewire it, I'll put a 15A fuse just off of the battery before it gets to the relay. I suggest you do the same

Oh yeah, one more thing. I had put a set of 24 flexible white LEDs around the headlight glass on each side. They're certainly not good enough to drive by, but when I was almost home, as a test, I shut the HIDs off and was surprised at the light output. It might be enough to keep the road in sight long enough to get stopped. They are wired directly to the 5w daytime running light bulb, so they are unaffected by the HID feed, ie, if the HIDs go out, these stayed on. Carry on...
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:36 PM   #79
bmwktmbill
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Nice work on the roadside.

As for a perm repair I suggest these relay/fuse kits, one for each beam triggered off the OEM headlight switch. I'd wire it so both headlights are burning on High beam.

That way you will never be completely out of light if you run to the battery separately for power.

Very safe.
bill
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:40 AM   #80
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashover604 View Post
...
Oh yeah, one more thing. I had put a set of 24 flexible white LEDs around the headlight glass on each side. They're certainly not good enough to drive by, but when I was almost home, as a test, I shut the HIDs off and was surprised at the light output. It might be enough to keep the road in sight long enough to get stopped. They are wired directly to the 5w daytime running light bulb, so they are unaffected by the HID feed, ie, if the HIDs go out, these stayed on. Carry on...
http://
Hella is gonna sue your ass for this - they call those "Angel Eyes" and you have probably seen them on nice BMW cars and such:



But good idea to wire something like that into the running light circuit. If you want a replacement headlight circuit you can order a great one from Jim at Eastern Beaver: http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:31 PM   #81
flashover604
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Ehhh, sue me... I can have 'em off the bike in less than a minute. I have three relays under the dash, one for low beam, one for high beam, and one for both on at high beam. The relay that fried was under the seat and triggered by the taillight. This would then feed the ones at the dash, so everything was off when the key was off.
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:13 PM   #82
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashover604 View Post
Ehhh, sue me... I can have 'em off the bike in less than a minute. I have three relays under the dash, one for low beam, one for high beam, and one for both on at high beam. The relay that fried was under the seat and triggered by the taillight. This would then feed the ones at the dash, so everything was off when the key was off.
Levity. (not a problem unless you want to market them :)

Don't take them off - they are a great idea (Hella thinks so too).

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Old 08-06-2012, 10:12 AM   #83
mtbdemon
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Upgrade lighting wiring

Hello,
I'm going to go about my upgrade systematically starting with the stator and rectifier. Is there a step by step DIY somewhere to upgrade the wiring to something heavier? From everything I have read, the wiring needs to be a heavier gage. Thank you!

Ken
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:19 AM   #84
flashover604
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Originally Posted by meat popsicle View Post
Levity. (not a problem unless you want to market them :)

Don't take them off - they are a great idea (Hella thinks so too).

I'm glad that they literally do no damage to the bike, ie:, no holes drilled, no wires spliced, nothing. They are held to the headlight glass with black vinyl tape and the wires piggy back into the daytime running lamp socket. They might not be for everyone, but they DO get drivers attention.
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:32 PM   #85
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Just got my HIDs in and am contemplating the wiring. Take a look at the following sketch. Would this not be possible to do to get both high and low to fire without adding a 3rd relay? I think it would work. I would put a switch in to kill the ground on the low beam relay so I could run with no lights or just the high beam if I wanted. Why wouldn't this work?



Edit: never mind. Won't work, this set up would try to fire the high beam from the low beam trigger wire.

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Old 10-18-2013, 08:06 AM   #86
wvrocks
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Originally Posted by SaharaJp99 View Post
Just got my HIDs in and am contemplating the wiring. Take a look at the following sketch. Would this not be possible to do to get both high and low to fire without adding a 3rd relay? I think it would work. I would put a switch in to kill the ground on the low beam relay so I could run with no lights or just the high beam if I wanted. Why wouldn't this work?



Edit: never mind. Won't work, this set up would try to fire the high beam from the low beam trigger wire.

I sent you a pm about what I have planned for my HID's. It only requires 2 relays for both lights to be on.
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Old 10-19-2013, 05:36 PM   #87
bmwktmbill
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Not sure how you guys are doing it but I used the handlebar switch to fire the relays and a three position toggle switch to enable no low beam in the center position, low always on to the left or low off when high is on to the right.

My system has two relay(kits) and fuses for the HID ballasts plus the toggle switch, otherwise the original handlebar switch does the rest.

My high beam flasher works like it did but I lost the parking light in the process and I didn't't want to tear things apart to find it, my guess is that the tggle switch manipulates the ground on the low beam.

bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley

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Old 10-20-2013, 01:15 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Not sure how you guys are doing it but I used the handlebar switch to fire the relays and a three position toggle switch to enable no low beam in the center position, low always on to the left or low off when high is on to the right.

My system has two relay(kits) and fuses for the HID ballasts plus the toggle switch, otherwise the original handlebar switch does the rest.

My high beam flasher works like it did but I lost the parking light in the process and I didn't't want to tear things apart to find it, my guess is that the tggle switch manipulates the ground on the low beam.

bill
I followed wvrocks advise and swapped the pins in the factory wiring harness for the low beam and the parking light, moved the white wire in the high beam connector to the black wire position in the low beam connector and vise versa. So now the low beam triggers the parking light and shuts off when the high beam is on and the low beam is on all the time. I put a toggle in the new low beam side so I can shut off the low beam if desired. Worked great, only needed two relays and the handle bar switches work as stock. Got everything mounted, new fuse box installed, direct wired the regulator to the battery, installed a 12v outlet on top of the dash, re-wired the heated grips, everything is working great! Now I just need to get out for a night ride to see how they look and re-aim the headlights.

Some how, vvme sent me 6 bulbs. I ordered the standard set, and two replacement bulbs thinking they were singles, they must be pairs. So anyways, I have 4 spare bulbs, if anyone needs one shoot me a PM.
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:25 PM   #89
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaharaJp99 View Post
I followed wvrocks advise and swapped the pins in the factory wiring harness for the low beam and the parking light, moved the white wire in the high beam connector to the black wire position in the low beam connector and vise versa. So now the low beam triggers the parking light and shuts off when the high beam is on and the low beam is on all the time. I put a toggle in the new low beam side so I can shut off the low beam if desired. Worked great, only needed two relays and the handle bar switches work as stock. Got everything mounted, new fuse box installed, direct wired the regulator to the battery, installed a 12v outlet on top of the dash, re-wired the heated grips, everything is working great! Now I just need to get out for a night ride to see how they look and re-aim the headlights.

Some how, vvme sent me 6 bulbs. I ordered the standard set, and two replacement bulbs thinking they were singles, they must be pairs. So anyways, I have 4 spare bulbs, if anyone needs one shoot me a PM.
Check for fuse tightness on the VVME relays and fuse holders, mine were loose and put the lights out on one side or flickered them.

Nice job, nice work, not so easy.

My system is solid several years in.

bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:42 PM   #90
SaharaJp99
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Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Check for fuse tightness on the VVME relays and fuse holders, mine were loose and put the lights out on one side or flickered them.

Nice job, nice work, not so easy.

My system is solid several years in.

bill
I hacked up the VVME relay kits pretty fierce, there were way too many wires, too small in gauge in my opinion, and I installed a fuse block under the dash so I didn't need the fuses or the 6 feet of wire, still a good deal though, you can't buy relays with the connector for $7 anywhere else! I took it for a spin last night and the lights seem pretty good. I think I have them aimed too low though. No flickering, warm up seemed quick. The high seems too low and aimed to the right, the low beam works good, but I think I want to aim it up a bit, not sure yet. It was 38 degrees on my ride last night and after 30 miles at highway speeds I didn't feel like standing out in the cold anymore to tinker with the aim. I had both high and low burning, my jacket on 2/3 or so and my grip heaters cranked and it seemed to have enough power, I also put a LED 1157 replacement in the tail light. The grip heaters seemed to lose heat the last couple miles, but maybe I'm just too used to heated gloves, as when I got in the garage and took my gloves off, the grips were warm. My hands were just cold and the bike still started easily, so I don't think it was a drop in voltage on the battery. So far though, I think it is a pretty sweet mod, just have to play with the aim to get it perfect. The white/blue light is sure nice though! Definitely a different look than halogens. Seems to not create as much "ambient" light and is more focused and direct, and doesn't reflect. Definitely apparent when pulling in the garage, it seems to hit the wall, but not light up the garage like the halogens do.
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