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Old 01-19-2007, 09:48 AM   #31
ehatcher OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 514Advrider
I am wondering... What is the exact procedure to mold the body parts? I guess you have to start with a block of solid material that you sculpt to obtain the desired shape, and then you lay the fibre\resin on it? Does this become the final panel, or do you use the resulting part as a pattern for the final piece? Could you explain a bit more on the procedure and material used, maybe you have some extra pictures?
For those interested, here is an abbreviated overview of the process of building the new bodywork. The pics I have are not particularly illustrative of the process - I just wanted my new toy to get finished so I would have something to ride! I have been doing one off type work for many years, so some of the techniques/materials I use may seem odd or be difficult to do/use if you are not familiar with glasswork.


First major step was to mount the new headlamp assembly (which is a unit from a 1989 Yamaha FZR600). Several wood and plastic mounts were made till I got all of the angles right, then I made the aluminum piece. Before I started I marked where the original headlamp was aimed on the wall, then adjusted the new twin assembly to match. At the same time I worked out where the instrument cluster would mount and figured how to mount it to the new support as well.

Next step was to mock up the fairing over the instruments and lights. Since I was going to use the shape of the original tank fairing (at least the front of it), I left that fairing in place and worked the new shape to it. The panel that holds the instrument cluster was made using inch resin faced foamboard, layed up with 5.2oz graphite, and varnished. The prototype fairing was simply a large wrap of illustration board formed over the instrument panel and lights, which was glassed, then foam panels were glued to that and shaped to give it the finished form. A mold was made of the finished prototype piece and a carbon fiber final part was made in the mold. The final part is 2oz e-glass; 3.8oz satin weave s-glass, 2 layers of 5.2oz plain weave carbon fiber and select areas were reinforced with 19.2oz twill weave carbon fiber.

I then made the new bash pan. The mock up was made with illustration board taped together, then the parts were cut from aluminum, bent and formed, pop riveted together in a few key spots with little angle brackets, and lastly TIG welded together.

Next I made a single piece mold off the original tank. I used a spray on silicon release which spared the panels from being destroyed in the process (but is VERY hard to lay-up on because the resin beads up on it and everything slides around when you are working. Subsequently a temporary part was made from this mold and mounted on the bike. It was glassed right to the front headlight fairing, and it was extended down to the bash pan with foam and damp illustration board (damp to get compound curves in), which was then shaped further and glassed. At this time, body filler was used to get the final shaped worked out, the fairings were cut apart and final molds were made off of these parts. PVC mold release was used on final parts to make them easier to layup and avoid problems with paint adhering later on. The final part is 2oz e-glass, 3.8oz satin weave s-glass, 19.2oz twill weave carbon fiber and select areas were reinforced with 5oz plain weave kevlar.

Lastly, brackets to hold everything on with DZUZ were fabricated, the wiring was completed, and the parts were painted.

I have no idea how much time this thing took to make, probably a couple hundred hours. I tore the bike apart at the end of October, and had it back on the road in early January. I tend to be a little extreme when I get into a project, sometimes I work 16 to 18 hour days without stopping to eat. I took a week off to work on it, and probably spent 80 hours or more that week alone. I enjoy this type of work as much as I do riding.

A couple of notes:
The tank fairing is one piece, but it is made in a two-piece mold. Each half is laid up stopping about an inch from the joint line. The epoxy is allowed to just start to cure and then the mold halves are bolted together, and the seam is laid up. When it is done right there is no visible seam and no strength is lost.

The layup is not entirely carbon fiber, the first layer in is 2oz (very fine) fiberglass cloth, the second layer is 4oz cloth, putting these in first prevents the coarse weave of the carbon fiber from showing through the paint when finished.

3 4 pounds of additional weight could have been saved had the parts been vacuum bagged. This would have saved a lot of resin weight by pulling off excess resin. I opted not to go this route because I would have had to make the molds with flanges around them to attach the bag to, which would have added a lot of work. I decided the additional weight savings was not worth the effort and expense for a one off project. In retrospect vacuum bagging would have worked better as it was a bear to get the glass to lay right in the molds and I would up with a lot of little voids to fill.

It looks nice in the pics but it is far from perfect, the seams don't match perfectly (though they are better than the factory parts) and the paint has a few pin holes. But as I said earlier, it is not a show bike. Once the newness wears off I will procede to properly abuse it...
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Old 01-19-2007, 09:54 AM   #32
ehatcher OP
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Originally Posted by TomN
Very nice! Almost as pretty as a KLR now
Thats the look I was after, guess I fell short.... damn...







I am sure you saw all the Tengai pics on my shop wall when you stopped through, thats a great looking KLR!
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Old 01-19-2007, 10:06 AM   #33
ehatcher OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richc
does that LED trailer light plug in? Got a P/N or a supplier for the thing?
The rear light is just an oval trailer light from a company called "Optronics" that they sell in the local autoparts stores. It is a standard size (6 x 2 I think), I see them on trucks all the time. It uses some kind of special trailer plug for stop/turn lights, so I just spliced it in. It is VERY bright and weighs next to nothing.

Eric
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:40 PM   #34
awschmidt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehatcher
Will,
As it stands now I am going to put in springs and emulators and see how that works.

The rear shock is still in question.....Does anyone know if it can be rebuilt with an emulator? If so I would likely give that a shot before dropping $800 on an Ohlins

Eric
I attempted the stocker rebuild. It worked; However, to upgrade the shock valveing and accum. was within $300 of the 250mm touratech rally shock. I went with the 250mm shock and it was a great all around improvement (I was pushing the rear tire into the inner fender when landing even after a spring upgrade).

Kevin
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Old 01-19-2007, 01:02 PM   #35
awschmidt
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BTW, I just read your lay up technique. I used epoxy and a base of s and e glass with a layer of kevler on the face for my ralley style fairings. I made the (rookie) mistake of making the mold an outie instead of an innie so I had voids and flaws in my outer surface from the vacume bagging. Since I was using epoxy for additional strength and wear resistance, vacume bagging seemed the way to go. You're experience shows in the quality of your finish, very nice. Oh, I also resprung and valved my forks as opposed to replacement. The improvement was approx. 500% over the stock crap.

Kevin
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Old 01-19-2007, 01:53 PM   #36
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Very Nice.....A lot of good ideas that are nice to be shared. Keep it up.

Troutrider
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Old 01-19-2007, 02:27 PM   #37
ehatcher OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awschmidt
I attempted the stocker rebuild. It worked; However, to upgrade the shock valveing and accum. was within $300 of the 250mm touratech rally shock. I went with the 250mm shock and it was a great all around improvement (I was pushing the rear tire into the inner fender when landing even after a spring upgrade).

Kevin
Thanks for the info. Also, I am going to put some vent holes on the left side of the bash pan where the pipe runs, as well as wrap the pipe. I was thinking of 4-5 1 inch holes in the front of the pan (right in front of the header pipe) and 4 - 5 1 inch holes along the side (directly beside the pipe). Do you think that wil be enough to keep from cooking the water pump? Or can you shoot me some pics of what you ended up doing to solve the problem?

Also, what fork boots are you using, I got some from Daystar but they are too bulky looking..

Eric
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Old 01-19-2007, 03:08 PM   #38
Mista Vern
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Great job! You are to be commended for your excellent craftsmanship and eye for design!
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Old 01-19-2007, 05:50 PM   #39
buffallodan
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You Sir, have outdone yourself ...
This is one of, if not the most professional mod I have seen here at Advrider. Excellent work and thankyou very much for taking the time to share it with us.

Dan
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Old 01-19-2007, 05:55 PM   #40
Royal Tiger
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Eric, awesome job!!!!
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Old 01-19-2007, 05:59 PM   #41
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Fantastic job! I wish I had the skill to do something like that. I am really impressed.
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Old 01-19-2007, 08:37 PM   #42
awschmidt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ehatcher
Thanks for the info. Also, I am going to put some vent holes on the left side of the bash pan where the pipe runs, as well as wrap the pipe. I was thinking of 4-5 1 inch holes in the front of the pan (right in front of the header pipe) and 4 - 5 1 inch holes along the side (directly beside the pipe). Do you think that wil be enough to keep from cooking the water pump? Or can you shoot me some pics of what you ended up doing to solve the problem?

Also, what fork boots are you using, I got some from Daystar but they are too bulky looking..

Eric
Here is a pic of the rs of the bike after adding holes. I don't seem to have a left on my computer right now, but the holes are the same as the right. My fork boots are ???? They were already on the bike when I got it, sorry. I've seen on the chain gang that boots may restrict air flow to the rad, but I've been ok in Mich. I also have a free flowing exhaust, milled-ported-polished head, and dump in extra fuel with a techlusion box so I'm not as lean and choked off as stock. I think a new front fender (like the touratech bikes) would do more for improving rad airflow, but I haven't got there yet.




Sorry about the crappy photos, they were too dark and I quickly adjusted them before posting.

Kevin
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Old 01-19-2007, 11:58 PM   #43
ehatcher OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awschmidt
Here is a pic of the rs of the bike after adding holes. I don't seem to have a left on my computer right now, but the holes are the same as the right. My fork boots are ???? They were already on the bike when I got it, sorry. I've seen on the chain gang that boots may restrict air flow to the rad, but I've been ok in Mich. I also have a free flowing exhaust, milled-ported-polished head, and dump in extra fuel with a techlusion box so I'm not as lean and choked off as stock. I think a new front fender (like the touratech bikes) would do more for improving rad airflow, but I haven't got there yet.Kevin
If those holes are working okay for you than what I have planned should work. I have a borrowed hole punch, a roll of exhaust wrap and stainless ties all laying on my bench, so the timing of the info is perfect. I really wanted to put slots in the pan instead of holes (they would look better) but there is no way to mount the pan in a mill and I don't know anyone with a plasma cutter I could borrow (and I don't really want to spend eight or ten hours making them with a file either).

I agree on the front fender probably hurting the cooling. I have a nice looking one piece carbon fiber fender I made that should let a little more air pass (and save more weight) but it will be awhile before I get around to finishing that part. I still need to make a radiator guard and some fins to guide air in too, I suspect I won't have a cooling problem till it starts to get warmer out though.

Eric
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Old 01-20-2007, 05:05 AM   #44
onaXR
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If you really want slots (which are cooler) why dont you drill the end of the slot area both sides and the connect the dots with a cutoff wheel.

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Old 01-20-2007, 05:35 AM   #45
bacon
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Eric:

If I had 1/10 the talent you have I would be happy.
What a fantastic job I am truly speechless.

Tim
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