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Old 12-05-2012, 06:09 AM   #3811
stevh0
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Cape Town, ZA
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Just got my wife a 95 XT600E.

Shes digging it!

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Old 12-05-2012, 07:09 AM   #3812
Olas
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Englewood, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG ED XT FAN View Post
I got a rear set off e-bay a few years back. Just have to check it often, Kedo has a set for your bike too. Just tell them its a 43f model. Very good company to work with.

Thanks, I found a set on powersports plus for $62. Ordered a few other things and hopefully that'll be all I need. I'll put some pics up sooN!
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:10 AM   #3813
Olas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jch View Post
I am going to change the fork oil on my 1991 xt600E, any big downside to draining from the drain holes as opposed to removing the entire forks. I am also condidering adding spacers to stiffen up the front suspension, bike is used 85% on road. Thanks
You won't be able to get all of the old oil out if you use the drains...It's not much more work to just take the fork tubes out.
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:19 PM   #3814
Buddaman
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Re: External oil Cooler from OTR

Hey guys new here on the 600 forum, Have a 82 XT550 already. Been reading into the XT600 and I've read a lot of different stories. I being in-patient bought the Off-The-Road external oil cooler without a lot of research. Living in California we don't get killer temps but 100's are common in summer. Is this cooler worth the money to install or will it cause more issues later on. If it is a good deal and works with no other issues how do I go about routing the new stainless oil lines. The instruction are in German and even translated are still difficult. Please can anyone explain how to route the 2 lines. From the pics on there site it look like one goes from the cooler to the bottom of the oil tank? then the other line from the cooler to engine(below carb)? That sound right guys and thanks for the help!

http://www.off-the-road.de/Other-bik...ha-XT-600.html
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:36 AM   #3815
Brage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddaman View Post
Please can anyone explain how to route the 2 lines. From the pics on there site it look like one goes from the cooler to the bottom of the oil tank? then the other line from the cooler to engine(below carb)? That sound right guys and thanks for the help!

http://www.off-the-road.de/Other-bik...ha-XT-600.html
This might help, Its my oil-cooler installed together with an mocal oil thermostat. You have it almost right.

Without the oil thermostat it goes like this.
First line is from top of cranckase engine ( below carburator ) to oil-cooler.
Second line is from oil-cooler to the top of oiltank.
That means the cooler is installed on engine oil return line.


Best regards Brage
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Old 12-11-2012, 01:52 PM   #3816
Buddaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brage View Post
This might help, Its my oil-cooler installed together with an mocal oil thermostat. You have it almost right.

Without the oil thermostat it goes like this.
First line is from top of cranckase engine ( below carburator ) to oil-cooler.
Second line is from oil-cooler to the top of oiltank.
That means the cooler is installed on engine oil return line.


Best regards Brage
Do you think I need a thermostat as well? and thanks so much for the picture and info ;)
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:48 PM   #3817
dzl
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Is there any data proving the effectiveness of these coolers? Just looks like something else to break to me. Is it really going to be effective when it is really needed ie when chugging along at low speed in tough terrain, sand etc? Sure it might have a small cooling effect when you have a bit of speed up, but is there really a hot oil issue when travelling at speed? Being an oil in frame bike, the frame is the actual oil cooler and when you think about it is quite a large heatsink/ radiator as compared to a DR650 that needs a cooler as there is no other source of cooling for the oil.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:28 AM   #3818
Brage
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzl View Post
Is there any data proving the effectiveness of these coolers? Just looks like something else to break to me. Is it really going to be effective when it is really needed ie when chugging along at low speed in tough terrain, sand etc? Sure it might have a small cooling effect when you have a bit of speed up, but is there really a hot oil issue when travelling at speed? Being an oil in frame bike, the frame is the actual oil cooler and when you think about it is quite a large heatsink/ radiator as compared to a DR650 that needs a cooler as there is no other source of cooling for the oil.
Difficult to answear that one, I think - if you have an completely original bike and mostly run it in a normal envirioment, you should not be in need of an oil-cooler - if so it had been there original from the start.
But, like mine which is modified and tuned, I`m pretty sure it`s needed. I have installed the Tenere 83 mod. big 30 litre fuel tank, and therefor removed the air scoops attatched to the original tank pushing the air around the sylinder head, this decreasing the aircoolant flow ,also The old classic Teneres had oil-cooler, and so do all the old tuned Dakar version of the bike from the Gauloises team.
So if you have an tuned bike, or run it very hard, or very slow in hot citys or have an aftermarket fueltank installed, the oil-cooler is needed.

Pic of my modified XT600 2kf below:


Best regards Brage
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:02 AM   #3819
Buddaman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzl View Post
Is there any data proving the effectiveness of these coolers? Just looks like something else to break to me. Is it really going to be effective when it is really needed ie when chugging along at low speed in tough terrain, sand etc? Sure it might have a small cooling effect when you have a bit of speed up, but is there really a hot oil issue when travelling at speed? Being an oil in frame bike, the frame is the actual oil cooler and when you think about it is quite a large heatsink/ radiator as compared to a DR650 that needs a cooler as there is no other source of cooling for the oil.
I think your right, But One question, you said the oil is in the frame? I thought that's why I had the external Oil tank on the back left. My 82 XT550 had oil in the frame but not this one? unless its routed somewhere I haven't seen yet? Ive had the 550 for a few years now but the 600 is new to me.

Anything else you guys know about the XT600 or more specific my 89 XT600? Ive been reading about the issues with 5 gear, what is the minimum speed to be in 5th, Im always above 60-65 when in 5th? Anything I can upgrade from a diff year or pay attention too? I did remove the side stand switch, but didnt notice any differences with or without. Thanks guys
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:28 PM   #3820
tall-mike
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!989 xt 600

I've recently purchased an 1989 xt 600, 3900 miles on the odomoter. I knew I would have to throw some money at it, to get it running right. Basically doubling the original purchase price, but those expenditures were at my leisure, to the consternation of the old lady.New tires.steering stem bearings,professionally cleaned and tuned carburetors, desert tank,performance exhaust,re-upholstered seat and a Wallmart rattle can paint job. I did change the gearing by adding one tooth to the front sproket, (an excellent up-grade) ,thought about the oil cooler...but ...decided upgrading to a better oil (50 % synthetic) and oil changes every 1000 miles would be sufficient. The front forks allready had the upgrade of progressive springs and compression spacers, but new 10 wt. fork oil was added insurance to a 23 year old bike. Runs like a raped ape, so I am totally happy with the end results...
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:59 PM   #3821
Zombie_Stomp
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Location: SE Portland/ Carrboroland NC
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I'm having trouble accepting my "auto-decompression". I come from riding Honda XL and XR600s, both of which have manual decompression levers on the handlebars. I'm sure I could rig one of these too, but I don't know if my automatic one is even actuating at all. See, when I kick it over, I get lots of resistance. I push against the kickstarter as hard as I can for 5-10 seconds before it reaches that sweet spot where I can kick with all my might and start it. If I am lucky, the hard compression spot will be towards the bottom of the kickstarter's throw so I have more leverage. I've tried to look at the lever on the head to see if I can see it moving, and I don't THINK I do, but it's hard to do while kicking the engine over. The P.O. broke and replaced one of these cables I can tell looking at the parts stash that came with the bike. One last thing I'll tell you I did: adjust the auto decompression cable using the adjuster barrel to make it tighter with the engine running until I heard a ticking and then backed it off until the ticking went away.

I haven't had a proper tuning session with my 1987 German 2KF, just replaced the dash lightbulbs, perfected front turn signal wiring, and oil change/air up tires/ rear flat repair/ chain lube/ chain tension adjustment.
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:36 AM   #3822
webmonstro
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Location: Portugal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp View Post
I'm having trouble accepting my "auto-decompression". I come from riding Honda XL and XR600s, both of which have manual decompression levers on the handlebars. I'm sure I could rig one of these too, but I don't know if my automatic one is even actuating at all. See, when I kick it over, I get lots of resistance. I push against the kickstarter as hard as I can for 5-10 seconds before it reaches that sweet spot where I can kick with all my might and start it. If I am lucky, the hard compression spot will be towards the bottom of the kickstarter's throw so I have more leverage. I've tried to look at the lever on the head to see if I can see it moving, and I don't THINK I do, but it's hard to do while kicking the engine over. The P.O. broke and replaced one of these cables I can tell looking at the parts stash that came with the bike. One last thing I'll tell you I did: adjust the auto decompression cable using the adjuster barrel to make it tighter with the engine running until I heard a ticking and then backed it off until the ticking went away.

I haven't had a proper tuning session with my 1987 German 2KF, just replaced the dash lightbulbs, perfected front turn signal wiring, and oil change/air up tires/ rear flat repair/ chain lube/ chain tension adjustment.

You should be able to see it move , at least on my 350 you can see it quite easy

try removeing the spark plug , to make it easy to kick over and be able to see the part move
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:34 AM   #3823
Brage
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Norway
Oddometer: 23
Hi Zombie duden.

Heres a pic of how to do the XT 600 decomp adjustment. The adjustment is to be done at TDC ( engine piston at Top Dead center )
good luck:


Best regards Brage
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:26 AM   #3824
A-Wind
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Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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I believe the XT600 has one of the easiest to kickstart engine of all bikes.

With properly working automatic decompression, the XT600 engine should be able to be started (using the proper technique) almost effortlessly.

If you ned to use strength to start the engine, then something is wrong or you are doing something wrong.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:34 AM   #3825
Reposado1800
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Location: 5th and Main
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olas View Post
Thanks for the replies guys. I had to take the wheel off for repair. It will need new spokes. So once I get that sorted I will start on the carb again. I put some marvel mystery oil in the gas and ran it to lube and clean the inside of the carburetor while it sits with the wheel off. The engine felt and ran strong, and pretty quiet for 13,000 miles.

Ed, I will get some pics up very soon... The bike just looks so sad right now, I need to take care of some things on it first.

I am looking for a set of spokes for this '84 XT600. Can anyone point me in the right direction here? I see kedo has a set for the '87-'89 XT600s but they don't list anything for the '84. Where there some major changes done to the XT in '87?
Call Buchanan Spoke and Rim.
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