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Old 01-31-2007, 08:57 AM   #61
DRS Canada
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Oh yeah ! The walk into town ! Waka, Waka ! Well just remember that you weren't the only stumbler that night, but you stole the trophy out of my hands. A clear and decisive victory. The name of the restaurant was " Coopers " and it was excellent. We're getting close to the final sighting and Todos, looking forward to this ...


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Old 01-31-2007, 02:00 PM   #62
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Hey....the boss said I could use work time to continue with this report....

like I need his permission...pheh

Well, there we were....at the turn-around point of the trip and some of the sweetest riding ahead of us...

Between beach days we took a route I first rode in '94 on the R80 G/S....about 9 kms or so north of the airport at San Jose is the Rancho Naranja Road and it goes up and over the Sierra de la Laguna mountains to the Pacific coast where it joins the #19 Highway just south of Todos Santos...the Carmel of Baja and the home of Hotel California which is so often mistakenly given credit for the Eagles tune of the same name (the song's title is a metaphor, folks....)....as well as a place with a wide selection of good taco joints.

An early enough departure and a blast up the highway to the turnoff brought us to a small welcoming committee....





With dogged determination they approached us like the Welcome Wagon...

but the dust in the distance was even more welcoming on this beautiful high speed avenue...



After a fast blast and a couple of corners, we settled into a most beautiful range of terrain that offered streams/rivers, ranchos, horses, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery, and killer vistas...

















Darren's great cloud pic....






The winding road was a lot of fun to ride as we could catch glimpses of the route ahead and grand vistas of the canyons along the way...










The ride would take maybe just over an hour if one did not stop along the way, but we would pull over to take pics or just gawk at the terrain....before the Pacific presented its majesty to us...




Down on the flats a myriad of roads offer various ways to the highway....some get you there....some don't....









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motoged screwed with this post 01-31-2007 at 09:21 PM
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:53 PM   #63
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Bravo, Keep up the great work.


Nate
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Old 01-31-2007, 08:08 PM   #64
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MmmmmmmMMmmmmm.......Caguamas!

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Old 01-31-2007, 09:50 PM   #65
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So, there we was....

On top of the divide looking down at the Pacific and looking forward to Todos Santos....

As the ride this morning so far was at that pace that seemed moderate...but we both agreed that we would take more pics on the return ride...

We wound our way down from the mountains, found the right route with only one "Qual ruta por Todos?" (my Spanish is butchered but it gets me by....I have learned what I know about it mostly when travelling....I promise myself to take lessons some day so I can interject the occasional verb into my phrases), and enjoyed the smooth hard-pack out to the highway...

Darren kickin' up some dust.....










On to the highway just south of Los Cerritos and up to Todos...dropped in at the Hotel California to say hello to the owner from our hostess in San Jose but she wasn't there that day....




So we tooled around for a brief tour of town and found a taco stand with appropriate attitude...






And Darren had a chance to preview his pics of the day, have a cerveza, and enjoy the sights....









After some tacos and beer, we gassed up at the Pemex next door and headed out to a few of the beaches south of town....

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Old 01-31-2007, 11:50 PM   #66
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Todos Santos is an agricultural area as it is supplied with adequate water from the mountains...




And the town itself has an air of nouveau riche these days, but the "old Mexico" flavour is to be found....





Some folks have done a wonderful job of ressurecting buildings that were falling-down adobe shells when I first went to Todos in 1989...







After Todos, we scouted some beaches for the view and to see if some coastal trails might take us back to the Los Cerritos turnoff from whence we came....we happened upon an overpriced surfer hotel and asked the young American owner some directional questions....and he pointed southward...




There is a lot of real estate development going on all over....and this lot was for sale...



So, I'm going to sell a kidney and make a down payment...



So, with a last glance northwards, I clicked into first and motored towards Los Cerritos...




As I have been heard to say that "No matter where you are in outback Mexico, if you stand in one place for a few minutes for a smoke....a Mexican is bound to come out of nowhere...."....

Sure as hell...



Cool rig....articulated beast of some sort....




So I nodded as one is want to do in such situations....and headed into Los Cerritos....an overcrowded surfer beach ...




We wound through some newly bulldozed trails in a real estate development between the beach and the highway for a few miles, and then did some pavement....for too long....and passed the turnoff...we stopped for a beer at a tienda and considered our options....and decided to slab it to Cabo....

We warmed the knobbies for a while and passed a wide arroyo coming cown from the mountains to the east and I recognized it from my 1994 ride on the R80 G/S.... We turned around approached the quad rental business located at the south end of the bridge over the dry riverbed and I confirmed my hunch with one of their guides....YES....this arroyo led to the small pueblo of La Candelaria....the place where I searched for a Curandero in 1994....






The arroyo was quite wide and consisted of deep and loose sand that was a challenge even at speed....thank the gods for steering dampers...

the bike was working hard and the sand was not only deep and loose, it was seriously washboarded due to the hordes of tourist quadriders....




As we rode eastwards we saw a group of quadders approaching....




On our beach days east of San Jose, Darren and I noticed and commented to one another various aspects of quad tours that gave us some concern....as seasoned, non risk-taking, sensible WATGATT , obey all the rules kind of rider guys

We consistently noticed quad renters:
1) riding like hell trying to keep up with the guide and the Alpha riders up front;
2) their ride gear tended to consist of flip flops, Walmart shorts with big flower prints, wife-beater T-shirts, baseball helmets without chinstraps, and yellow "dirt bandanas" (most likely provided by rental agency as a person must inhale 10 lbs of dust in an hour ride);
3) every third rider had a child under the age of six sitting on their lap...


now...add these factors up, have one of them crash (likely into one another), and imagine the injury list

More evidence for reasons to be concerned was witnessed on our trip north a few days later at the same arroyo....stay tuned....




Anyways....as we rode further up the wash, we saw a quad abandoned due to what appeared to be a blown rear shock.....

after a few miles we approached the end of the arroyo and headed up the narrow double track trail on the north side of the canyon...and wound our way a few more miles into La Candalaria.....

Years before when I rode there in search of one of their alleged Curanderos (ie. Healers...shaman type folks....Carlos Castenada stuff), i remember asking around a bit if I could be directed to a Curandero....and I was directed to the school house which had a red cross symbol on a door by the office.....

What did I expect??? Some grisled old person willing to take me to my spiritual outer reaches with a handful of peyote ??? (well....kinda)...

I suppose when one is on such a meaningful spiritual quest you don't approach it so bluntly or naively

The road out of La Candalaria would offer side roads on occasion and, after turning a few of them down, my 13 year old recollection of the road system took us on a delightful winding road that brought us right into the western hills of San Jose....






A PRIMO DAY
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motoged screwed with this post 02-01-2007 at 01:36 AM
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Old 02-01-2007, 09:36 PM   #67
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Back in San jose and a stop at the tienda for some refreshments....and the kids outside on new Xmas presents...I want to change the look of my KTM to that guy's Batman motif...




The town was still enjoying the festive lights...








Our time in San Jose del Cabo was very enjoyable and gave us a good pointfrom which to start the return northwards....to more primo riding and adventure. We drove west toCabo San Lucas and, to my pleasure, DArren was not hard pressed to pass on scouting the town out....so we motored northwards and were hoping to make it to Loreto that night before dark.

Again, we were on #19 going north....and headed towards the sandy arroyo we had enjoyed a day or two earlier....Quadsand Gully....

It was Darren who noticed some unusual traffic going up that riverbed....
it is difficult to notice this traffic in this pic as it is mostly obscured by the bridge rail...



But it was apparent that someone was needing some serious assistance....otherwise this white truck with the red cross on it would not need to brave the perils of this deep sand...

It was maybe 10:00 am and already a quad rider was seriously injured...




We gabbed about our predictions as to what kind of injury required an ambulance out there....we thought that a broken arm or clavicle could be returned to base on another quad so it had to be a broken leg, spinal injury, or head injury......

ATGATT


We stopped in Todos Santos for an early lunch and found this place to serve excellent pork tacos....just a few steps away from Shut Up Franks...





The tacos were rather large, the meat was tender, and the condiments were varied....







After brunch....we beelined north...

We kept a steady pace until we got to La Paz....I pulled in to a Pemex and gassed up. While doing so, I was talking to the young gas jockey and, while covering the usual topics (re: bikes---how fast, how much, can you wheelie), the fellow responded to one of my queries about a particular shopping request and he reassured me that he knew where to get what I was looking for....so we looked a round for a while at a nearby figurine emporium to pass some time while the gas jockey did his thing...














And while this kind of stuff was NOT on our shopping list, it was a chance to look for some interesting photo "image" practice....a bit of a failue by the evidence provided here but , while it may not make YOUR eyes bug out...



...it does give you something you can almost sink your teeth into...




By the time we walked around this place and found a place to buy some oil for the truck....we completed our previous shopping request with the gas jockey, thanked him for his help and shared interests, and went on our way west outta town....
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Old 02-01-2007, 11:38 PM   #68
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The drive north from La Paz was relatively uneventful ...





....the usual beer stop.....maybe somewhere maybe around Las Pocitas... where I asked if they had any hielo...and the fellow assured me they did and took me out behind the tienda ....and pulled out a beegeezuz big knife...and opened the freezer and stabbed off a block the size of a toaster oven...and then was kind enough to carry it to my truck ....




where it found a home in the cooler.....where it could chillax with some friends...




We arrived in Ciudad Constitucion....our ride plans were reviewed and, while we had intended to ride a few days out of Loreto, we somewhow both agreed to pass on that and spend more time in Bahia de los Angeles.....so we stopped overnight again at the Hotel Oasis in Ciudad Constitucion....



....went out on a taco prowl...



and then found a familiar face which brightened up the night with her smile....




and some ice cream....

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Old 02-01-2007, 11:53 PM   #69
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Thumb Fantastico!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Way to go bro´s... congrats on that magnificent ride...thanks for posting.......
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Old 02-02-2007, 09:27 PM   #70
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By now it is about January 6th and we are in Ciudad Constitucion....we are up before the sun ...




We start to reload the truck....the bikes are left cabled onto the truck when we are stopping for overnights "enroute", but we have been in the habit of lugging 5 large duffle bags with gear into rooms at night....and often the cooler and kitchen box...



We eventually developed a relatively good cooperative system of the "load...unload...load...unload" ritual...and by the end of the trip I was almost remembering which bag and stuff-sack held what....



nothing was open in town that I recall and we headed out....the sun rose and we were bee-lining it to Loreto....approaching the turn-off to Agua Verde in the early morning light, I was craning my neck to get my last look at the valleys below...an area that always looked inviting to ride...but not this time...



And almost before we knew it, we were winding through the switchbacks leading down towards Loreto....



the Sea of Cortez winking at us in the morning warmth...





Along the coastline, past the evergrowing developments (no longer a nudist resort





and offering the scourge of desert development....golfcourses...





Into the town of Loreto for breakfast (the WORST machaca of the trip), and some banking...



and pics...before getting back on the highway....












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Old 02-02-2007, 10:41 PM   #71
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Excellent!
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Old 02-03-2007, 12:11 AM   #72
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We were sorry to not stay in Loreto and do several days of riding to places like Agua Verde, and San Xavier Mission (places I have been and wanted to have Darren enjoy), and La Purisima....where neither of us have been and which riders we met along the way consistently said "It's really pretty there...", but our guestimations led us north to ensure adequate time riding out of Bahia de los Angeles....

We enjoyed the ride up to Mulege.....one roadside stop along the way offered a wierd sight...



What is even wierder....when we turned off the highway and drove in a short way....we did not notice the poor coyote up there....when we returned to the highway about 20 minutes later...we noticed it....


But motoring on, it was nice to see Bahia Concepcion in the distance ...



And this area was where we had ridden earlier in the trip over to San Sebastion and San Nicholas...



The wind was kicking up that day...the kind of day that drowns inexperienced or gonzo sea kayakers...



As we were approaching Isla Requeson and its beauty, we came upon an accident where some gringo's boat had not been properly attached to its trailer and had fallen off, hitting a mexican family's car head-on...no apparent physical injury to the folks in the car, but the car was pushed in up to the front seat....






But Isla Requeson was as beautiful as ever...





Darren continued with his random drive-by shooting....



















Bustin' caps in the album's ass all along the way...





We made it to Mulege.....

Compare this pic from the bridge over the river when we were there in early January/07....





With flood pics in Sept/06....





Serious water action, huh ???: eek1



Onwards past the prison just south of Santa Rosalia...





Where a guy doesn't want to spend much time

And past the port town of Santa Rosalia...



The rest of that day was a bit of a blur through San Ignacio, where we stopped for gas and refreshments....Guerrero Negro for gas....and into Bahia de los Angeles ....with the last hour of driving in the dark....breaking one of the cardinal rules of travelling in Baja.....NEVER DRIVE AT NIGHT

But we made it to our next home...Costa del Sol motel....




And that is where the next stage of the moto fun resumes....famous folks, great rides, some sun, good food, more famous people, and some margs to add that touch....

If you like it....lick it...

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Old 02-03-2007, 09:22 AM   #73
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OK this might be a really dumb question. It seems to me that on this trip there was some serious Margarita drinking. Is the ice safe? You won't die from drinking one of these puppies in one of the small towns? And if some offer purified water ice and some don't how do you know? I want to drink many margaritas when I go down there
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:35 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by Zerodog
OK this might be a really dumb question. It seems to me that on this trip there was some serious Margarita drinking. Is the ice safe? You won't die from drinking one of these puppies in one of the small towns? And if some offer purified water ice and some don't how do you know? I want to drink many margaritas when I go down there
Hepatitis B and C are your biggest risks from contaminated ice or whatever else.. Get the Twinrex (sp?) vaccine and enjoy worry free margaritas...

Thanks Ged for the latest update
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Old 02-03-2007, 10:00 AM   #75
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I'm followin' along, ged, gettin the Jones for Baja real bad....
Put the 640 back together just now, but it's pretty cold to be ridin' it today...
I need a Baja fix
NOW
Thanks for the continuing report
Keep it up!
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