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Old 07-10-2013, 10:15 AM   #4741
Gunslinger1
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Rolla, MO
Oddometer: 627
Lower your EXC

I have had a WP shock shortened to lower my EXC by Emig Racing.

I also have a Seat Concepts Seat that I sent to CA to have built as low as possible which had to be done on an EE pan to get it as low as possible.

Both of these mods will lower the bike to a seat height of 34.5" sitting by itself.

I did these mods to lower this bike for my girl to ride but it turns out it was just too much bike so now we are setting up a crf 230F for her.

I have them listed here.........if you want to get your feet a bit closer to the ground this will do it for you.

thanks

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=899670
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:06 AM   #4742
yondering
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesupreme View Post
i'm baaacckkkk...

i didn't read the whole thing first time, so...

if you got the perch on the clutch master for it, i think you should have it....

auto-decomp or not, my '06 450 SMR was/is a beeeooottch to kick start, and if you didn't learn the drill and set it up w/the decomp lever, best of luck.... a couple times around seems to build up compression, and then you ain't gonna kick it.... i stand on the kickstand to kick it, mostly, and i'm 200+lbs... this is why i put on the magic button... and i did this for a few years....

Shouldn't be that hard to kick start. These motors, when set up correctly, kick over fairly easy. You shouldn't ever have to use the decompression lever, if you have one. Valve adjustment is key though, and of course the auto decomp system on the camshaft needs to work right.

My buddy's '06 525 is harder to kick over than my '02 520 (540 12.5:1), but his has a shorter kickstarter lever.

If you're a lightweight guy (like me) and/or in an awkward position for kickstarting, hit the e-start button at the same time when you kick it over; this helps it start easier.

It is true that the later RFS bikes didn't come with the manual decomp release; apparently KTM determined it wasn't needed. You can retrofit one if you want, but shouldn't need it for normal starting.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:02 PM   #4743
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i always wondered about the kick start drill on mine... valves are adjusted, and i had the top of the head off, and the ADC spring is on right and seems to be working... it's a little spring, in my last order i got another one to change out if i take the head off again.... i was thinking it's tired...

but mine is not exactly easy to kickstart, and you had to do the drill to get past the exhaust cycle and before the intake, and it started fine, but it just took a pretty good whack... if you don't do the drill, good luck... i put the magic button on march, and it starts perfect.... just went out and started it cold after setting for over a week, and it fires on almost the first revolution....

mine's a SMR that i bought off a squid kid, who bought it off another squid kid who 'raced'... i'm sounding like an azzhole, maybe the first guy was cool, i dunno... but the bike has alotta racy sumo bling parts on it, and the motor is really strong.... i don't know what's in it, for all i know the guy changed out the piston for more compression... there's a 12.5 wossner for this bike, i know... stock is 12....
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:09 AM   #4744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesupreme View Post
i always wondered about the kick start drill on mine... valves are adjusted, and i had the top of the head off, and the ADC spring is on right and seems to be working... it's a little spring, in my last order i got another one to change out if i take the head off again.... i was thinking it's tired...

but mine is not exactly easy to kickstart, and you had to do the drill to get past the exhaust cycle and before the intake, and it started fine, but it just took a pretty good whack... if you don't do the drill, good luck... i put the magic button on march, and it starts perfect.... just went out and started it cold after setting for over a week, and it fires on almost the first revolution....

mine's a SMR that i bought off a squid kid, who bought it off another squid kid who 'raced'... i'm sounding like an azzhole, maybe the first guy was cool, i dunno... but the bike has alotta racy sumo bling parts on it, and the motor is really strong.... i don't know what's in it, for all i know the guy changed out the piston for more compression... there's a 12.5 wossner for this bike, i know... stock is 12....
The 06 SMR came with the same 5521 cam that the EXCs came with. If the motor has been massaged, it might have a different cam. A lot of people won't bother swapping the ADC from the original cam to the new one. But you say the parts are all there so I dunno what to tell you. The ADC functions from zero RPM to about 1700 so even just kicking it over slowly you should get barely any resistance. Unfortunately, checking which cam the motor has requires sacrificing a water pump gasket (numbers etched on the impeller end of the shaft) so if you're not having any issues starting it then don't worry about it.



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Old 07-11-2013, 10:15 AM   #4745
Al-X
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I can kick start my XC with my hand on a summer day. In winter I need to do a kick start for the first start of the day, thereafter I use the lectric start.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:17 AM   #4746
jar944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesupreme View Post
i

auto-decomp or not, my '06 450 SMR was/is a beeeooottch to kick start, and if you didn't learn the drill and set it up w/the decomp lever, best of luck.... a couple times around seems to build up compression, and then you ain't gonna kick it.... i stand on the kickstand to kick it, mostly, and i'm 200+lbs... this is why i put on the magic button... and i did this for a few years....
If this was the case (and you verified the valve clearance with a feeler gauge) your adjuster feet are cupped.

Get new adjusters or use the 1/6 turn method.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:19 AM   #4747
Al-X
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I had a XR650R previously. Kick starts dont faze me :) . My decomp lever broke off, so I removed it off the cable as well.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:25 AM   #4748
cjbiker
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I adjusted the exhaust valves using the 1/6 turn method yesterday. They were a little loose, but the kickstarter still feels the same. I guess I'll be getting a little more familiar with the top end of this bike. To check the auto decomp, I'll need to pull the water pump cover, disconnect the oil line, remove the valve cover, anything else?
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:30 AM   #4749
GR0NK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post
I adjusted the exhaust valves using the 1/6 turn method yesterday. They were a little loose, but the kickstarter still feels the same. I guess I'll be getting a little more familiar with the top end of this bike. To check the auto decomp, I'll need to pull the water pump cover, disconnect the oil line, remove the valve cover, anything else?
If you don't want to actually remove the camshaft, the only other thing you will need is the proper gasket maker for the rocker box-cylinder head surface. I use Permatex Motoseal, same stuff as the ThreeBond listed in the KTM manual. Removal of the water pump cover will likely destroy the gasket so need one of those.


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Old 07-11-2013, 10:31 AM   #4750
yondering
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jar944 View Post
If this was the case (and you verified the valve clearance with a feeler gauge) your adjuster feet are cupped.

Get new adjusters or use the 1/6 turn method.
Good point. The 1/6 turn seems so common and natural, I always forget that some people still try to use feeler gages on these.

Using feeler gages with well used adjuster feet means your valve clearance is greater than what you've measured, so the ADC doesn't work as well. Just a couple thousandths makes a difference.

Also, the ADC shaft in the cam can get worn, where it contacts the rocker arm. A little bit of a shiny spot is OK, but any significant wear will start to affect ADC performance.

yondering screwed with this post 07-11-2013 at 10:40 AM
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:39 AM   #4751
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GR0NK View Post
If you don't want to actually remove the camshaft, the only other thing you will need is the proper gasket maker for the rocker box-cylinder head surface. I use Permatex Motoseal, same stuff as the ThreeBond listed in the KTM manual. Removal of the water pump cover will likely destroy the gasket so need one of those.


Sean
From what I've read so far, other than the valve adjustment, the only other culprit could be the auto decomp spring. Any other reasons why the auto decomp may not be working?

Of course, this all may be in my head, but the fact that I can stand on the kickstarter leads me to believe that something is wrong. It *can* be kickstarted, but it doesn't seem right. Electric start appears to work fine as well...
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:44 AM   #4752
crazybrit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yondering View Post
Good point. The 1/6 turn seems so common and natural, I always forget that some people still try to use feeler gages on these.
It took me a little time to figure out the 1/6 turn method as you need to stop tightening (clockwise) as soon as you feel the slightest change in resistance, which sometimes isn't obvious. You can still go quite a ways past this but then backing off 1/6 turn would always be way too tight (checking with a feeler gauge). Of course maybe my feet are cupped (140 hours) so confirming with the feeler was invalid
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:44 AM   #4753
jar944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post
Of course, this all may be in my head, but the fact that I can stand on the kickstarter leads me to believe that something is wrong.
Yeah, it should kick through rather easily. If it hangs up on the compression stroke the ADC is not working.

How is it with the manual compresson release?
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:46 AM   #4754
GR0NK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post
From what I've read so far, other than the valve adjustment, the only other culprit could be the auto decomp spring. Any other reasons why the auto decomp may not be working?

Of course, this all may be in my head, but the fact that I can stand on the kickstarter leads me to believe that something is wrong. It *can* be kickstarted, but it doesn't seem right. Electric start appears to work fine as well...
I would tend to agree with Yondering. Use the 1/6 turn method to set the valves. If your feet are cupped, the clearance will be too great (with feeler gauges) and the ADC won't work properly or at all. The spring is inconsequential, its only job is to return the ADC to "on" at low RPM. If it's weak, the ADC will just disengage sooner (lower RPM) but should still stay activated when just kicking over slowly.


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Old 07-11-2013, 10:58 AM   #4755
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jar944 View Post
Yeah, it should kick through rather easily. If it hangs up on the compression stroke the ADC is not working.

How is it with the manual compresson release?
I don't have the manual cable/lever, so I couldn't really tell.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GR0NK View Post
I would tend to agree with Yondering. Use the 1/6 turn method to set the valves. If your feet are cupped, the clearance will be too great (with feeler gauges) and the ADC won't work properly or at all. The spring is inconsequential, its only job is to return the ADC to "on" at low RPM. If it's weak, the ADC will just disengage sooner (lower RPM) but should still stay activated when just kicking over slowly.


Sean
I set the valves using the 1/6 turn method. Before I did that, I could just get a 0.005" feeler gauge in there, so my tappets must be cupped. No change in the kickstarter feel after setting the valves. Should I try temporarily setting them to 0 clearance just to see if that makes any difference? Obviously I wouldn't run the engine that way.
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