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Old 02-16-2007, 08:34 AM   #1
gary138 OP
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R1200GS valve adjustment

Hi, I just picked up a cd owners manuel for my brothers 2005 r 1200 gs . I hope to do his valve adjustment to save him some $. I do all my own maintenance over the years but never on a BMW.
My questions on doing a valve adjustment are > Is there a easier way to make sure the bike is at TDC than sticking a special tool in some hole, if not the manual really doesn't say much and is there only one hole , in other words when I move to the other side am I using the same hole or is there one on that side also??
The valve adjustment seems straight forward but then it says to Set the valves actuated by a common rocker arm to exactly the same setting but doesn't show where ( no photo of this being done ). If the inlet valve is .15 that would mean the rocker would be the same ?? and .3 for the exhaust. And what kind of an adjustment is this rocker arm ? ( locknut like the valves ?? ) this is what this section looks like. Thanks for all feedback !!!!!!!!! is there easier write up to follow or video made by somebody from this group. Thanks agin !!
Measure valve clearance with feeler gauge.
[IMG]file://D:\Datas\Reprom\BMW-Motorrad\SYMB\KG\MODELLE\00\hinweis.gif[/IMG]

Note
You should feel slight resistance as the blade of the feeler gauge slides between the valve stem and the rocker arm.

[IMG]file://D:\Datas\Reprom\BMW-Motorrad\SYMB\KG\MODELLE\00\techdat.gif[/IMG] Technical data
Valve clearance, inlet valve
engine cold max. 35 C
0.15 mm
Valve clearance, exhaust valve
engine cold max. 35 C
0.3 mm

Result: Valve clearance is out of tolerance.
Measure:
[IMG]file://D:\Datas\Reprom\BMW-Motorrad\imgs\icon\bullet.gif[/IMG]
Correct valve clearance with adjusting screw and tighten locknut.
[IMG]file://D:\Datas\Reprom\BMW-Motorrad\SYMB\KG\MODELLE\00\Anziehdrehmoment.gif[/IMG] Tightening torques
Locknut, valve adjusting screw, M6 x 0.5
8 Nm

[IMG]file://D:\Datas\Reprom\BMW-Motorrad\imgs\icon\bullet.gif[/IMG]
Recheck valve clearances.
[IMG]file://D:\Datas\Reprom\BMW-Motorrad\imgs\icon\bullet.gif[/IMG]
Set the valves actuated by a common rocker arm to exactly the same setting.
[IMG]file://D:\Datas\Reprom\BMW-Motorrad\imgs\icon\bullet.gif[/IMG]
Check valve clearances and adjust if necessary and, repeat the same procedures for the second cylinder
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Old 02-16-2007, 09:13 AM   #2
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Here's the link to the detailed procedure posted by JimvonBaden.
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Old 02-16-2007, 09:14 AM   #3
Jetjock
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try this


http://www.davedragon.org/Photos/BMW...-A_VA/pics.asp

or


http://www.bmwmc.net/uploads/tm11/R4...115_medium.wmv

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Old 02-16-2007, 09:17 AM   #4
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Get the write up by Jim VonBaden. Excellent, with pictures. Also the write up in the hall of wisdom by JonJen and company - another excellent source. Lot's written on the subject. Good luck.
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Old 02-16-2007, 01:34 PM   #5
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On The Money??

Jim's write up is excellent, you won't go wrong with it.

However.

Setting up TDC need not be a hair splitting proposition, close is good enough.

What I have done.

With pulgs removed and having engaged 6th gear I rotate the engine to where I see the intake valves closing, which means that TDC compression is coming up (where you, ideally, want to set the valve lash). I put a screw driver, or a long soda straw, in the plug hole and work the rear wheel, gently, until I feel the piston come up and then fractionally decend--you can go back and sneak up as often as you want, but make sure that you stop moving the engine after moving the rear wheel only in the forward direction, this insures that the can chain slack is out of the equation. You can safely set the valves at this point. Don't forget you are setting the maximum clearance so you can check your work by measuring again when, say, the exhaust valves are at, or near, maximum open.

I am a fan of the hash mark on the cam, but anywhere between 2:55 or 3:05 is as good as 3 O'clock, given that 3 O'clock can be somewhat subjective.

Best wishes, you'll do great!

B.
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Old 02-17-2007, 04:25 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Scholar
Don't forget you are setting the maximum clearance so you can check your work by measuring again when, say, the exhaust valves are at, or near, maximum open.


B.
But surely there wont be any clearence when the valve is fully open or have i misunderstood
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Old 02-17-2007, 01:50 PM   #7
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Clearance

When the exhaust valves are at, or near, full open the intakes should be at, or near, full clearance (lash). Similarly when the intakes are at, or near, full open the exhausts will be at, or near, full clearance (lash).

The point being that if you set the lash correctly it will be the maximum measurable at any given point during the cam cycle while the tappet is on the cam's base circle. The base circle can be as much as 180+ degrees of cam, or 360+ degrees of crankshaft rotation.

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-09-2010, 09:42 AM   #8
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TDC is nice. All you really have to do is have the rocker on the base circle of the cam. Anywhere on the base circle will do. It’s just an internal combustion four stroke engine. The principle is the same.

Measure the gap between the valve stem and the flat on the bottom of the adjuster.
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Old 05-09-2010, 09:54 AM   #9
hojo in sc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtbain
TDC is nice. All you really have to do is have the rocker on the base circle of the cam. Anywhere on the base circle will do. Its just an internal combustion four stroke engine. The principle is the same.

Measure the gap between the valve stem and the flat on the bottom of the adjuster.
Wow, only 3 years old.
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:21 AM   #10
Jason1202GStime!
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Just curious, why do we need to remove the spark plug for valve clearance?

Any expert here care to share on this?
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason1202GStime!
Just curious, why do we need to remove the spark plug for valve clearance?

Any expert here care to share on this?
It/they are removed so it is easier to rotate the rear wheel in gear. Otherwise, the engine's compression makes it almost impossible with the plugs in.
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:43 AM   #12
Jason1202GStime!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisperquiet
It/they are removed so it is easier to rotate the rear wheel in gear. Otherwise, the engine's compression makes it almost impossible with the plugs in.
Oh, so it should be ok if i just loosen the spark plugs right?
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:47 AM   #13
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason1202GStime!
Oh, so it should be ok if i just loosen the spark plugs right?
Remove them and observe them...they tell volumes about what is going on in your combustion chambers.
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Old 05-22-2010, 02:00 PM   #14
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you need a thin wall socket

A regular socket will get stuck in the plug "hole". You need a thin walled deep well socket..... You can get 'em at most auto parts stores. ---- But, maybe not in Singapore! I havent been there since 85. Is Change Alley still hopin'?
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Old 05-22-2010, 06:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSman of La Mancha
A regular socket will get stuck in the plug "hole". You need a thin walled deep well socket..... You can get 'em at most auto parts stores. ---- But, maybe not in Singapore! I havent been there since 85. Is Change Alley still hopin'?
We get lots of stuff here in Singapore otherwise there is always the internet!

Change Alley from 1985 is lot different from today! Come by when you get the chance..... of course the weather is still hot as......
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