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Old 07-13-2012, 07:50 PM   #12226
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by DR Steve View Post
So that is an E07 in 140 width ?

It also looks to be a bit of a rounder fit than some of the 130 E07's I've seen which appear to be a very flat tyre.

If so I think that my next tyre to try - I think the wear bar will make the 130 useless for most of my riding as soon as it wears that far.
It would appear to still have plenty of tred depth beyond the center wear bar ?
It's not a wear bar.
The wear indicators are much closer to the carcass than the centre strip.
Once you hit the centre strip, there's about 2-3,000km left in the tyre.
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:54 PM   #12227
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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
It's not a wear bar.
The wear indicators are much closer to the carcass than the centre strip.
Once you hit the centre strip, there's about 2-3,000km left in the tyre.
These sorts of things are designed to stiffen up the knobs, reduce flex and heat and improve mileage as a result.

The one I have on at the moment is nearly down to the bar, so after thinking about it a few times, I've ordered a knobby knife and will remove the bar for more effective drive for a few more kms. Its a bit slippery around here in places at the moment.

http://www.knobbyknifedownunder.com/index.html

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Old 07-13-2012, 08:40 PM   #12228
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The tyre on the blue bike mine is a E07 / 130 I run these untill about 1mm of tread left to the centre bar then chuck em, so Berg,s idea of grooving the centre sounds good to me.
The E07 is now to soft and doen,t last like the old ones used too, probably 1500k,s less me thinks but a real good all round use tyre value for money.
when they are down to the centre bar straight line drive is a bit useless but does add to the fun factor of things or one could let an extra 6lbs of air out of it helps , I think Nordie mentioned this allso a while back.
I am running a 140 E07 on one of my BIGS and it has no centre bar which I prefer because they are a softer compound like the new E07,s AND DON,T crack next to the edge of the centre bar like the old version hard ones.
The 140 I have never tried on the 650 and may not fit where it gets close to the swing arm on the right hand side at the front, going 140 allso I think may start to push the front out because of to much grip.
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:55 PM   #12229
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Originally Posted by robmoto View Post
The tyre on the blue bike mine is a E07 / 130 I run these untill about 1mm of tread left to the centre bar then chuck em, so Berg,s idea of grooving the centre sounds good to me.
The E07 is now to soft and doen,t last like the old ones used too, probably 1500k,s less me thinks but a real good all round use tyre value for money.
when they are down to the centre bar straight line drive is a bit useless but does add to the fun factor of things or one could let an extra 6lbs of air out of it helps , I think Nordie mentioned this allso a while back.
I am running a 140 E07 on one of my BIGS and it has no centre bar which I prefer because they are a softer compound like the new E07,s AND DON,T crack next to the edge of the centre bar like the old version hard ones.
The 140 I have never tried on the 650 and may not fit where it gets close to the swing arm on the right hand side at the front, going 140 allso I think may start to push the front out because of to much grip.

Thanks for the reply rob,

So the tyre pictured has the center tread bar, it's just not really visible in the picture ?

You mention the "old" and "new" E07 - how do you tell the difference and does it even matter ?

I assume the new softer one is a little better on wet roads.
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:40 PM   #12230
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Steve, it has a centre bar its just a bit hard to see, both the old and new softer compound E07,s have the centre bar.
Be very cautious in the wet with them on tar, wet hot mix they are not bad. I run 30psi loaded on the tar though.
Keep away from the front E07,s for the dirt if you like going quick .
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:35 PM   #12231
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Originally Posted by robmoto View Post
The 140 I have never tried on the 650 and may not fit where it gets close to the swing arm on the right hand side at the front,
I'm running a 140 E-09 on one of my 650's and there's room to spare, not sure if there is any shape difference to an E-07 though that might make an E-07 different.
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:12 AM   #12232
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Anyone know what's up with TBAM?

No sight of the June one yet.
The website is also down.
The publishers link to subscribe to the mag says "magazine not found".


Nooooooo!

h::calm:
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:14 AM   #12233
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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Anyone know what's up with TBAM?

No sight of the June one yet.
The website is also down.
The publishers link to subscribe to the mag says "magazine not found".


Nooooooo!

h::calm:

TBAM is no more buddy, all went down the gurgler a couple months ago. RIP. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:27 AM   #12234
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TBAM is no more buddy, all went down the gurgler a couple months ago. RIP. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
Nooooo!

First Woose, then TBAM.
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:35 AM   #12235
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TBAM is no more buddy, all went down the gurgler a couple months ago. RIP. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
Morrison Media sent out subscription refunds at the end of June for existing subscribers.
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:57 AM   #12236
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Tbam

There was a whole thread about its demise.
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Old 07-14-2012, 01:35 PM   #12237
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18" SM Pro rim

Anyone had a drama with lacing a new 18" SM pro rim? one side it appears the holes have been drilled on the wrong angle. When laced up the spokes have a bend in them? while the other side is spot on.

Bit hard to explain, but the angle of the rim holes doesn't match the angle on the hub, sproket side from memory. So when looking at the wheel side on, the spokes have a slight arc in them.

The bike tech rang the importer and they were not much help. He will have to redrill the holes.

Is he missing something?
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Old 07-14-2012, 02:27 PM   #12238
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Anyone had a drama with lacing a new 18" SM pro rim? one side it appears the holes have been drilled on the wrong angle. When laced up the spokes have a bend in them? while the other side is spot on.

Bit hard to explain, but the angle of the rim holes doesn't match the angle on the hub, sproket side from memory. So when looking at the wheel side on, the spokes have a slight arc in them.

The bike tech rang the importer and they were not much help. He will have to redrill the holes.

Is he missing something?
That doesn't sound right, but i wouldn't go redrilling anything, maybe the bloke is lacing it wrong. Also SM pro can be dicks to deal with, years ago they're rims didn't have enough grip marks in the alloy lip and even double rim locks wouldn,t hold a tyre. Only due to our bike shop who was sponsoring my kid, being persistant about the issue, SM pro finally relented and took the rim back and had it re grooved, which fixed the problem. Personally i stick with Excel rims now, they seem to be no trouble and have always had decent grooving to hold the tyre.
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Old 07-14-2012, 02:54 PM   #12239
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Sounds like that sm pro rim was made for a motocrosser or enduro with no cush drive hub.
The cush drive side of the DR wheel is a larger diameter than the disc side and therefore a different angle necessitating a different spoke angle in the rim.
The rim can successfully be drilled but you will end up with 18 elongated spoke holes or you could also just put up with slightly bent spokes.
If you ordered a rim specifically for the DR, check that the wheel lacer hasn't put it on the wrong way round (although all 36 spokes would be showing as slightly bent if that were the case I would think)
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:22 PM   #12240
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That doesn't sound right, but i wouldn't go redrilling anything, maybe the bloke is lacing it wrong. Also SM pro can be dicks to deal with
I would hate to think how many wheels he has laced, so i kow this is ok.

John Titman is the importer and apparently where not overly helpfull.
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