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Old 10-08-2012, 01:13 PM   #12571
B1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KIZ View Post
turned out to be a blocked sock filter that is fitted standard inside the inlet pipe of the carby.You have to take the fuel hose off of the carby and hook out what looks like a white ring at the end of the inlet.KTM 640 has same.
pretty common, lots of DR owners remove this and install one of those inline fuel filters that are clear so you can see if it's getting blocked up, and will take much much longer to block up anyway, if ever.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:27 PM   #12572
BergDonk
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With my Safari plumbing I found that with a clear inline type filter I would still get an air lock when switching to reserve. This was with the horizontal intake to the carb too. The problem was that I had the filter horizontal, and once it got air in it, if it ever even fully purged itself which wasn't very often, there wasn't enough pressure at low levels to push the air through.

One solution, easy with the translucent tank, is to run on reserve all the time.

In the end, I have removed the filters from inside the tank and only have one filter, a servicable one, and its positioned vertically, so fuel sits in the bottom, and air always has an escape route to the carb or a fuel tap. And this is simplified for me by having a swivel intake now on my FCR.

One filter to service is my preference too, and I routinely run on reserve to make sure I don't get an accumulation of crud sitting in the top of the fuel tap that'll block reserve the day I really want it to work.



You can see in the pic the filter is nearly vertical feeding the carb and rest of the lines run up to a tap. Not as tidy to look at as some, but works.


And I change my Delo 400 at 3-4,000 kms
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:50 PM   #12573
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well, either this is going to work or it's going to kill me stone dead.
i modded the original throttle tube with the zip tie thing and it was ok. then i thought i'd make a cam shaped one to try and tune the throttle pull a bit. the idea is that the first 1/4 of the pull is similar to the original, then the middle will be a smooth progression into a quickdraw pull, then it will ramp back slightly at the last 1/5 of the pull. overall draw length should be about 25% less. maybe.
i'll try fiting it tomorrow maybe. or on the weekend.
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:56 PM   #12574
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Cool2

Gday Fellow Aussie DR lovers! (and you Kiwi infiltrators) Shiny new inmate here, posted my hello and basic rundown of the object of my obsession over on the `no pissin n moanin` thread, so i wont repeat it here, `cept, ``HeLlO``

I do have a question though, has anyone else here got an FCR from a 00-03 (?) Yamaha YZF 426. I`ve picked one up for $100 and the butchered carcass of a DEP DR-Z pipe.....

What i want to know, is how much jetting changes have you had to do? A mate who works at my local bike shop reckons stock will be close, if not spot on, and i tend to agree as the 426 is an aggressive beast compared to the lazy unstressed DR design. I have jet drills. I have experience with them now, as i reamed out the BST`s jets ( up 3 on main, up 1 on pilot, and needle dropped 1 clip) not perfect, but ridable. Havent bothered getting it right, as you guys here convinced me the BST is a means to an end, not a carby.

So i have a blackmagicvoodoo FCR in pieces awaiting cleaning. That wont be for a little while, as I have higher priority DR projects on the go .

Cheers for any advice,

The Doc
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:15 PM   #12575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocSuzuki View Post
Gday Fellow Aussie DR lovers! (and you Kiwi infiltrators) Shiny new inmate here, posted my hello and basic rundown of the object of my obsession over on the `no pissin n moanin` thread, so i wont repeat it here, `cept, ``HeLlO``

I do have a question though, has anyone else here got an FCR from a 00-03 (?) Yamaha YZF 426. I`ve picked one up for $100 and the butchered carcass of a DEP DR-Z pipe.....

What i want to know, is how much jetting changes have you had to do? A mate who works at my local bike shop reckons stock will be close, if not spot on, and i tend to agree as the 426 is an aggressive beast compared to the lazy unstressed DR design. I have jet drills. I have experience with them now, as i reamed out the BST`s jets ( up 3 on main, up 1 on pilot, and needle dropped 1 clip) not perfect, but ridable. Havent bothered getting it right, as you guys here convinced me the BST is a means to an end, not a carby.

So i have a blackmagicvoodoo FCR in pieces awaiting cleaning. That wont be for a little while, as I have higher priority DR projects on the go .

Cheers for any advice,

The Doc
Lots of info out there, just gotta filter it... I'll quote myself FWIW, and for a 39 mm FCR.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk
As noted previously, seat of the pants has got me to the following:

Main 150
Needle EMP
clip from Top 1
PAJ 70
Leak 35
Pilot 38
Fuel Screw 2.25
Float 9
Start 85

19-20 km/l
cut airbox, FMF PB header and Megacycle muffler

We definitely need to lean off US jet specs for out Oz (and Kiwi?) fuel.

Probably still not perfect, but it can't go leaner, I tried that.

It'll be interesting to find out where you end up Phil.

Steve
Work through this thread:
http://drriders.com/topic3733.html

and you will have a good direction to go, its got some good local input.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:41 PM   #12576
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Wow Berg! you work fast! Only had time to finish customising my avatar stuff (why the hell does spellcheck say `customising` is wrong, when it is, in fact, the CORRECT spelling? No wonder Aussies are spelling like Uncle Sam these days)

Thanks for the info, I don`t even know what it has in it atm, but now I know a good baseline setup. My engine might be different to yours, as i`ve done some headwork, and already polished the FCR. So it might run a bit leaner than an internally stock engine due to increased airflow (although i`m not saying i`ve got a dragster engine, but i did notice quite a difference in output after the work).

BTW, I`m glad you were the first Aussie to reply to me, as you seem to really know your shit, and I`m envious of your DR, and your lathe. (i would kill for a lathe and a CNC machine....dreams are nice to have)

Also, how`s the Rock Hard Rally plate/boxes holding up? I can see definate advantages to one of those, even for road riding, Feet protection/ weather barrier and storage being the main ones.

Once again, cheers!

The Doc
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:49 PM   #12577
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The bash plate is excellent. It is very solid, although I have managed to tweak it all the same, but a B&B or similar would be a mess. Definitely provides case and foot protection too, and the thinwall FMF header is looked after as well. No overheating that I've noticed. $exxy, but a good thing. I carry a tube in each side too.

Only thing you need to do is reinforce/box the rear frame mounts for it, else it might fatigue them like mine did.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:07 PM   #12578
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Glad it`s holding up. Looks like KTMatt (i think it`s him who makes em?) put a lot of effort into designing and making them. Price is no real issue for something my Old Friend could really use; after all i recently installed a $900 Staintune on her, even though the market value wouldn`t be much more than that for the whole bike. To me, she`s priceless and will be with me until one of us expires.

Even though i`m not a dirt rider I am setting her up as a tourer, and those boxes place weight as far down as possible without tying string to something and dragging it along the road. Not to mention it looks uber cool!

Anyway, cheers for your input, now i`m out to the shed to spend some `quality time`



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Old 10-09-2012, 10:18 PM   #12579
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I suppose the downside is the boxes provide extra flotation and the bike might float away sooner on a deep crossing, who knows?

KTMatt is the man. He's an inmate here, or; rockhardrallygear at westnet dot com dot au

Quality stuff from his shed for sure.

Shed time, I'm missing it, been working on the computer almost all day and its time to be outside
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:20 PM   #12580
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More:
http://www.offroadexplorer.com/Forum...opic.php?t=463
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:08 PM   #12581
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Cool2 Finally got photos uploaded!

Thought i`d share some pics with you guys of the fork conversion progress :

What she looks like before, that dogbox is the best money i`ve spent on this bike. no more shoving shit down my jacket!


What she looks like right now, nice fully adjustable 1992-3 RM two fiddy Showa USD`s.


The only `hassle` i`m having. The lower clamp is resting on the cooler at this point, but it is at a ridiculous amount of lock, too much for a road based bike.


See?
From memory, the tank contacts before this point anyway from the top clamp. A simple mod at the steering stem will solve all though. Have a couple of ideas.


Yes, that is PVC plumbing pipe around the fork legs nice and light, and fairly strong. Once painted or hidden, no-one could tell anyway. The headlight is off my 1973 Suzuki GT 550 spare parts bike, with a new Narva 7 inch (?) car lens. A simple tab mount bending, and it squeezes into the motorcycle lens cradle. H4 halogen non sealed beam. Round lights provide a more even beam, like a floodlight, as well as looking better. I miss the round light trail bike days. Gives more class than weird shaped lenses, i`m looking at you, BMW.


This was before i properly mounted the lens in the frame. The lens now sits the right way up.


The caliper adaptor plate. Made out of some hardcore check plate that I snavelled from the old man. He uses it to fix their wood heater when the firebox burns or warps. Ugly as shit right now but prep and paint will fix that. I made a template out of cardboard, then perspex (so i could mount it properly to check measurements/dimensions without wasting the metal and time) It is about a mm too long, and the pads don`t go to the inside edge of the rotor like stock, but i`m not racing the thing so i can`t see that big a loss in performance. Took me about 6 hours.


A previous attempt at making a `dakar` style dash. Damn you ADV and your inspirations!


The scalpel. Without a doubt the most versatile power tool i`ve got. This big two handed bastard will cut, shape even drill (albeit very carefully, using a conical bit) everything from wood, plastic, to steel. Made the caliper plate with this.
30,000 rpm of material shredding goodness! Shame high quality tungsten bits are 70 dollars a pop.


Glory shot. Tas Rally 2012 was her first, my fifth. She had only a couple hundred k`s on the fresh engine before i flogged her arse the 400 odd k`s round trip. Never missed a beat the whole weekend. The blue DR you see near the tent is the other 650 in the family, nice bike, but now feels gutless compared to mine.... I feel i`m going to cop some abuse at that comment! It was here i put her on the dyno, and kept a log of the fuelling. My dodgy mathematics suggest she returned a figure of 5.5 litres per 100km (didn`t bother with MPG conversion, because I don`t work with outdated standards. We live in a METRIC world, people!)

The Doc
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:49 PM   #12582
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Looks like you're having a fun time Doc

Might help others if you put in a dedicated build thread. Keeps it all in one place, and not mired in along thread.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:45 PM   #12583
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Thumb Why didn`t i think of that?

Hmmm, you may be right Berg, good idea. Spose then i can go into greater detail, like the bearing comparisons without worry of hijacking a general thread.

Was only giving short descriptions so i didn`t cop flak. Everybody likes pictures though.

I`ll start one after I get back in from today`s shed session.....

Stay tuned for more from Doc and his `old friend`!

The Doc
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:50 PM   #12584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocSuzuki View Post

Was only giving short descriptions so i didn`t cop flak. Everybody likes pictures though.

The Doc
But enquiring minds always need to know more
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:47 PM   #12585
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+1 on a dedicated thread. going to get me another one of these fine beasts one day but will definitely want to do something like your front forks mod among other things. and adapt a set of those honda cast wheels again too...



even on the road the stock forks were way too soft and underdamped once you start to throw it into corners.
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