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Old 02-17-2013, 12:20 AM   #12886
Ausfossil
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Brisvegas, Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe View Post
I'm not very familiar with the TM I'm more of an fcr kind a guy but yea just T off any of the hoses as long as they are a vent for the float bowl.
Some people just put one of the vents up and this will help with water crossings but can cause the bike to flood when laid over at certain angles.
Sweet, thanks mate, 1 T and a bit of rerouting coming up.

Iain
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:16 PM   #12887
woodsy4
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Location: Port Macquarie, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ausfossil View Post
Just put a TM40 on the DR and wondering about these vent lines. Do you have to put a T in all three vent line and reroute all up to the airbox or just in one of them. If just one is it anyone in particular.

Cheers

Iain
I put a T in all 3, doesn't cost much, stuck in a creek once was enough for me, wish Procycle had included that as a hint somewhere on their web or instructions. Love mine, runs great, but first creek crossing cough - stop, feet down in water over the top of the boots, pushed it out and eventually got it restarted.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:23 PM   #12888
B1
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is this T-joint a good idea for the stock carb as well? i found it annoying that the DR often stalled for no reason in deeper creek crossings and this sounds like it could have been the cause. just wondering as i'll probably be buying another of these mean mothers soon.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:21 PM   #12889
Ausfossil
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I had a few T's lying around so did all three. I had done it on the stock carb which only had one breather. Never had any issues with water crossings so I guess it did something.

Iain
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:29 AM   #12890
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1 View Post
is this T-joint a good idea for the stock carb as well? i found it annoying that the DR often stalled for no reason in deeper creek crossings and this sounds like it could have been the cause. just wondering as i'll probably be buying another of these mean mothers soon.
Yep
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:36 PM   #12891
TRTN
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Any recommendations for a road worthy check plus a rear tyre + install in Melbourne?

Would like a Mitas E07, Shinko 705 or similar. Cheaper is better at the moment ;)
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:27 AM   #12892
live4daride
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Katoomba
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I had the seat off yesterday doing the valve clearances and noticed some unused electrical plugs up near the airbox. Anyone here know the purpose of these?

On a separate note, an example of DR awesomeness:
At work we have a new guy just started, a toolmaker by trade, who amongst other things, has raced proddies and owned a turbo Hayabusa. So i imagine he doesnt take it to easy when on a DR!
This said person had a 96 DR650 and clocked up 250,000 kms without any breakdowns!! Whist working on it, unknowingly kinked the engine breather which caused the engine to blow smoke.
Thinking naturally by now a rebuild is due, pulled the motor apart and found everything measured in spec, including the bore and cylinder. He changed the oil every 2500 kms.

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Old 02-20-2013, 02:51 AM   #12893
0405canvet
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B1

Just have a hard time picturing B1 on a little DR. It's a big step up from the H thou!!
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:20 AM   #12894
rutsthematter
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Location: Drouin, Gippsland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRTN View Post
rear tyre + install
DIY I'ts good practice for you if you plan riding all the good spots.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:51 AM   #12895
KIZ
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Location: Gawler South Australia
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Originally Posted by rutsthematter View Post
DIY I'ts good practice for you if you plan riding all the good spots.
+1, I carry spare tubes and have needed them a few times.
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Old 02-24-2013, 04:33 AM   #12896
DRjoe
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Location: Sunshine coast qld
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Hi dr gurus
I'm designing something for the dr and I need to know how big the side stand switch is.
My dr650 does not have it anymore.
Has anyone got a photo of the side stand switch fitted to the bike and could someone measure how far the switch sticks out, I want to make use of the chain roller mount hole next to the side stand switch but I think the switch might stick out too far and get in the way.

Cheers
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:06 PM   #12897
B1
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Location: Arse-trailer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0405canvet View Post
Just have a hard time picturing B1 on a little DR. It's a big step up from the H thou!!
yes it does take a bit work... high bend bars mounted and inch forward and up, pegs moved down and to the rear, seat padded higher. had to sell the first one as i just wasn't ready for the knob ripping power. but i'm hoping after a year on the berg i might be halfway ready for what is rightly known as the world's best bike.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:38 PM   #12898
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe View Post
Has anyone got a photo of the side stand switch fitted to the bike and could someone measure how far the switch sticks out, I want to make use of the chain roller mount hole next to the side stand switch but I think the switch might stick out too far and get in the way.

Cheers
UncleGra, good pics.

Reading this a bit different: I laid a straight edge across the threaded chain roller boss and the outer edge of the side stand switch (front to rear). The switch and boss are real close to the same 'depth'; the straight edge almost ran parallel to the bike's center line, like the chain. It's angled out just a tiny bit toward the rear.
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:43 PM   #12899
UncleGra
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The chain roller hole is in 5mm from flush with the frame alignment....and I flunked General Maths English Conprehension Science ..but waqsnt bad on Goegraphy and French ...and spelling....

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Old 02-25-2013, 01:18 AM   #12900
DRjoe
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Location: Sunshine coast qld
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Thanks uncle gra and ER70-s (how do you pronounce that?)

That's the info I was after.
I need to take a supporting strut from the chain roller bolt hole up to about where the passenger peg is now.
Looks like i'll need to put a 5mm spacer in just to make sure it clears that switch.


Thanks again fellas



Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
UncleGra, good pics.

Reading this a bit different: I laid a straight edge across the threaded chain roller boss and the outer edge of the side stand switch (front to rear). The switch and boss are real close to the same 'depth'; the straight edge almost ran parallel to the bike's center line, like the chain. It's angled out just a tiny bit toward the rear.
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