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Old 04-01-2013, 08:31 PM   #13006
backtodirt
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Location: Lilyfield, sydney, australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slapper View Post
yup - if that float valve is leaking .. then it's most likely doing it whilst the bike is running as well as when it's sitting still. If it's leaking faster than the engine's using fuel (eg. at idle or v low revs) then simply switching the tap off when not running is not stopping the fuel from leaking into the oil.

Fuel in the oil is bad for all sorts of reasons (reduced lubrication, cooling etc even a low risk of an explosion is present) ... fuel leaking back through your air filter is also bad for all sorts of reasons (which might happen if you stop on an incline etc) ...

Plus .. it might get worse and you could finish up stranded :(

The risk of something bad happening is probably low if you turn the tap off every time the bike's not running. Any leaks whilst the engine's running will probably just get burned off as it dribbles into the cylinder .. in my opinion, it's not worth the risk though.

Still it's probably too late to mention all this as you've probably already gone!

cheers (hope it went okay),
Slap
haha, nah I took heed of issues and decided to postpone it, carby is apart, and am doing research as we speak to work out what to replace if needed, thanks for the help, I will yell if I run into any difficulty. Thanks again!
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:18 PM   #13007
Sleepy John
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Location: Bris Vegas, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backtodirt View Post
haha, nah I took heed of issues and decided to postpone it, carby is apart, and am doing research as we speak to work out what to replace if needed, thanks for the help, I will yell if I run into any difficulty. Thanks again!
Back to basics. Though prob too late by now.

Is it the original tank with vacuum operated fuel tap or after market tank & taps?

How long had the bike been standing when you changed the oil?

Could you replicate the problem?
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:21 AM   #13008
fatgut
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18 inch rear

I am currently changing the rear wheel to 18inch, just wondering what width tires anyone has been running with the 18 inch rear wheels . I was looking at a 18\130- EO9, I have been running a 17\130- E09 and it was good tire.
Thanks
Kev.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:33 AM   #13009
KIZ
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Location: Gawler South Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatgut View Post
I am currently changing the rear wheel to 18inch, just wondering what width tires anyone has been running with the 18 inch rear wheels . I was looking at a 18\130- EO9, I have been running a 17\130- E09 and it was good tire.
Thanks
Kev.
I've been running 130/18 E09 and E07,s OK. I dont think a 140 would fit but might just get in. Marty.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:17 PM   #13010
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatgut View Post
I am currently changing the rear wheel to 18inch, just wondering what width tires anyone has been running with the 18 inch rear wheels . I was looking at a 18\130- EO9, I have been running a 17\130- E09 and it was good tire.
Thanks
Kev.
Depends on the rim width. Typical enduro 18s are 2.15. I think the stock 17 is 2.5, and the 18 I fitted is also 2.5". You can squeeze a 140 onto a 2.5 but it wraps the tread and sidewall around and there is no advantage, and it wobbles about. 120-130 is fine, but for a more definitive tyre specific answer, ask the tyre manufacturer or local agent.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:51 PM   #13011
fatgut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Depends on the rim width. Typical enduro 18s are 2.15. I think the stock 17 is 2.5, and the 18 I fitted is also 2.5". You can squeeze a 140 onto a 2.5 but it wraps the tread and sidewall around and there is no advantage, and it wobbles about. 120-130 is fine, but for a more definitive tyre specific answer, ask the tyre manufacturer or local agent.
Hi BergDonk.
The rear rim is a 2.15 to suit the Tubliss system ,looking at manufacture information a tyre width 110/120 is norm some say to 130 max.
Kev.
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:42 PM   #13012
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatgut View Post
Hi BergDonk.
The rear rim is a 2.15 to suit the Tubliss system ,looking at manufacture information a tyre width 110/120 is norm some say to 130 max.
Kev.
As ever, the relationship between quoted tyre sizes and actual measurements are not always easy to follow. Some 130s might be OK, but normally I'd say a 120 is max for a 2.15 rim. Mind you, I've seen some huge 120s over the years too. Your retailer might have a clue, or might not. The importers are always up for a chat in my experience and normally know their product fairly well, so if in doubt, ask them.

This thread happening on DRR right now might be of interest too:
http://drriders.com/post83533.html#p83533
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:38 PM   #13013
slapper
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525+520 vibration ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by slapper View Post
well ... it's still there but not enough that I'd have especially noticed it.
well .. I think I've finally worked out what's causing it.

When I put the factory rear sprocket back on, I could still feel the vibrations, but they weren't bad enough that I would have noticed it if I wasn't looking for it (in stark contrast to the 44 which really felt like something was wrong). As usually happens when things get slowly worse, I didn't notice it happening but, Friday on the way home I thought "that vibration's actually pretty bad, I might as well put the 44 back on". Which I did yesterday.

When I went to remove the sprocket, I discovered that 3 of the bolts holding it to the carrier were loose enough to turn by hand. Now that I've stuck the 44 back on with freshly tightened bolts, it feels "not bad" (the vibes are there, but I'm pretty sure I'm just noticing them because I'm being extra sensitive) - so I reckon that's it. Nothing to do with 525+520 mix, the sprocket bolts are just coming loose over time.

Thread lock next weekend I reckon :)

cheers all.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:32 PM   #13014
robmoto
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Blue locktite
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:45 PM   #13015
TRTN
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Think the factory applied threadlocker is a red compound. Needs heat and a fair bit of force to remove.

Loctite 263 would be similar. I reckon 243 (blue) would be good enough. Not a qualified mechanic though.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:25 AM   #13016
Lupine128
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Location: Brisbane Australia
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Quick question before I suck a screw into my engine and lunch it.
Left work and the neutral light worked properly.
Pull up in traffic 25k later and its flickering.
Pull up 5 k later and it's gone.
I'm at a shopping center so I've checked the bulbs and they are fine.
Chances it's the NSU and I'm about to suck a small 5c piece of metal into my motor and destroy it?
Do I ride 5 k home?
Help?
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:46 AM   #13017
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupine128 View Post
......
Do I ride 5 k home?
Help?
I wouldn't
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:01 AM   #13018
grrant1058
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupine128 View Post
Quick question before I suck a screw into my engine and lunch it.
Left work and the neutral light worked properly.
Pull up in traffic 25k later and its flickering.
Pull up 5 k later and it's gone.
I'm at a shopping center so I've checked the bulbs and they are fine.
Chances it's the NSU and I'm about to suck a small 5c piece of metal into my motor and destroy it?
Do I ride 5 k home?
Help?
Dear Mr Lupine,

Unfortunately it sounds like it is knackered. PM me ASAP and I will whip around in the ute, pick you and the poor old DR up, drop you safely home and sling you a $1,000 for what's left of the broken down old beast!
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:23 AM   #13019
Boo82
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Oddometer: 384
The muppet rode it home, it didn't die, but he nearly did when I found out what he had risked. And now he expects me to let him ride my bike instead . At least he has a sense of humour still. He can ride the DT.......

He mummbled something about the light coming back on and it is probably a wire or something and is going to open it up and look at it.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:02 PM   #13020
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Check this plug, it's by the upper shock bolt, just behind the tank.

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