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Old 03-16-2014, 04:33 AM   #13921
CCCC
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Hi All

Want to get some new rim locks for my DR. What's do you guys think are the best. Some times I run really low pressures and want to make sure I get the best rim lock out there.

Cheers
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Old 03-16-2014, 12:20 PM   #13922
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Originally Posted by CCCC View Post
Hi All
Want to get some new rim locks for my DR. What's do you guys think are the best. Some times I run really low pressures and want to make sure I get the best rim lock out there.
Cheers
don't go the cheap plastic ones, they do very little no matter how tight you clamp them down. i'm after advice on decent ones too as i ripped out a rear valve stem running 15psi and came close to the same issue on the front.
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Old 03-16-2014, 02:45 PM   #13923
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Rim Locks

The Torpedo7 Talon clones work fine, but they don't do a 1.85 for the front. Ballards do though. And of course make sure you use the right width one. DR stock is 2.5 up back and 1.85 front. Most MX and enduro bikes use 2.15 and 1.6 widths, so their locks are too narrow for the DR.
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:46 PM   #13924
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Rim Locks

I'm using the Torpedo 7 lighweight Talon clones. They had a 1.85 for the front when I got mine some time back.

Be careful if you get your tyres fitted by a shop. One of my riding mates had rim locks fitted to his DR at one of Melbournes biggest bike shops (a few big stores around the metro area) only to have the rear come off the rim mid corner on the tar. Scary stuff to see right in front of you.
Shop had used 2.15 rear and 1.6 front rim locks and damaged the bead on a new MT21 rear while fitting it. Rim lock wasnt holding the tyre at all so it just rolled straight off the rim when the bead failed !
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:49 AM   #13925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR Steve View Post
I'm using the Torpedo 7 lighweight Talon clones. They had a 1.85 for the front when I got mine some time back.

Be careful if you get your tyres fitted by a shop. One of my riding mates had rim locks fitted to his DR at one of Melbournes biggest bike shops (a few big stores around the metro area) only to have the rear come off the rim mid corner on the tar. Scary stuff to see right in front of you.
Shop had used 2.15 rear and 1.6 front rim locks and damaged the bead on a new MT21 rear while fitting it. Rim lock wasnt holding the tyre at all so it just rolled straight off the rim when the bead failed !
Phark!!

I never ever let a bike shop change my tyres when tubes are involved. Rather throw it over the shoulder and take it home and do it
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:42 AM   #13926
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rim locks

Quote:
Originally Posted by B1 View Post
don't go the cheap plastic ones, they do very little no matter how tight you clamp them down. i'm after advice on decent ones too as i ripped out a rear valve stem running 15psi and came close to the same issue on the front.
All this talk of ripping off valve stems and rims locks breaking and rolling tyres off beads further reinforces to me that the DR is not a motocrosser. Why do you need to run your tyres at 15PSI? To me the dangers far outweigh the advantage in grip...Just my opinion.



Recent ride in muddy conditions T-63 Rear and Desert Front with much more than 15 PSI in them
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:05 AM   #13927
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Almost 150,000 km's now on DR's and have never run a rim lock and never had a tyre creep. Let my tyres down by feel at Purnie Bore and reinflated at Birdsville. Had inadvertently let the rear down to 8psi and not a problem.

Don't bother.
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:19 AM   #13928
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Rim Locks

I think the requirement for rim locks depends a lot on the terrain you ride/tyres you use.

I like to ride Vic High Country tracks when I can. For the most part they are steep, loose, and rocky. The technique required to get to the top of some of those long climbs is the same on the DR as it is on an enduro/mx bike - it asks a lot of the rear tyre and too much pressure bounces off the rocks and gives a small contact patch.
Before fitting rim locks on the DR I span the rear 606 on several occassions @ 20 psi. I don't see any down side to fitting rim locks.
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:20 AM   #13929
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Houston we have a

In an attempt to remove the rear shock both top and bottom bolt heads have been rounded off.

We used quality six sided sockets and a rattle gun.

I suspect that a high strength loctite product has been used on the bolts.
It is either that or Suzuki uses reired Sumo wrestlers to torque their bolts.
Seeing as there are Teknik stickers on it, I suspect the former.i.e. it has been worked on post factory.

The bike has been dumped in the tray of my trailer to see if the local bike shop can heat the area and loosen the bolts.

Any other bright ideas??
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:25 AM   #13930
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Cut 'em off and replace them with some hi-ten bought at the bolt shop.
It will be cheaper than a shop working on them.
I work in a shop and it's most likely what I'd do anyway.
Whole job should take about an hour and cost around $15 if you do it yourself.
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Old 03-17-2014, 12:56 PM   #13931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRman View Post
I suspect that a high strength loctite product has been used on the bolts.
It is either that or Suzuki uses reired Sumo wrestlers to torque their bolts.
Seeing as there are Teknik stickers on it, I suspect the former.i.e. it has been worked on post factory.
they seem to come like that from the factory, i stripped my lower bolt head trying to take the shock out. i'd prefer suzuki redirect the two cents spent o loctite per bike to putting a decent amount of grease in the steering head bearings etc.
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:02 PM   #13932
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Originally Posted by Lupine128 View Post
Cut 'em off and replace them with some hi-ten bought at the bolt shop.
It will be cheaper than a shop working on them.
I work in a shop and it's most likely what I'd do anyway.
Whole job should take about an hour and cost around $15 if you do it yourself.
Cut them off,how?

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Old 03-18-2014, 12:45 AM   #13933
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Originally Posted by XRman View Post
Cut them off,how?

Sent from my MB525 using Tapatalk 2
Interesting dilemma, given the bottom bolt screws into the shock clevis. For future ref some sockets have a bit of a bevel for 2mm or so inside the open end and do not grip very much metal on the head. Maybe grind the end of the socket a bit so it is flat and see if there is enough bolt head to grip and try carefully with a bar instead of rattle gun. Good luck!
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Old 03-18-2014, 01:57 AM   #13934
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Bottom shock mount bolt torque is the same as the top according to the specs but the top is into steel and the bottom is into alloy. There is post somewhere which suggests a lower torque and low strength loctite for the bottom bolt to prevent problems like stripped heads threads etc.

Found it.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=466791

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Old 03-18-2014, 04:09 PM   #13935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rutsthematter View Post
Bottom shock mount bolt torque is the same as the top according to the specs but the top is into steel and the bottom is into alloy. There is post somewhere which suggests a lower torque and low strength loctite for the bottom bolt to prevent problems like stripped heads threads etc.

Found it.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=466791
fwiw: Rick has changed the recommended torque from 37Nm to 46Nm. He posted on the DRRiders forum sometime last summer; so I corrected my post in Krusty's suspension index.

NC Rick:

An important note:

DO NOT use the Suzuki manual torque specification to tighten the lower shock mounting bolt (on the shock clevis).

The prescribed torque will often rip the aluminum threads out of the clevice on the OEM or our shock.

There is an error in the manual.

We suggest 46 NM as the correct torque to tighten the M-10 fastener in the aluminum thread.
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