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Old 03-28-2014, 12:54 AM   #13951
Benz-in-Oz
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Location: Murrumbateman NSW
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I think it's time for repair

It's not much good any more, I suppose it never was especially good even when I first got it, but it has deteriorated lately and is absolutely hopeless now. Acceleration doesn't happen unless the surface is like a billiard table, the wheel just hops up n' down uselessly the revs go through the roof it spits rocks and gravel out the back and jars the living bejezus outa me final drive and transmission, braking down hill into corrugated corners, I just pull up well before hand, hop off and push the bike around the corner.

I'm pretty sure I know how to fix it better than new, throw it's innards as far as I can across a large body of water, and replace same with adjustable innards from Cognent in the US of A. I think I'll leave it at that, but gee something keeps niggling me, maybe I should upgrade the spring at the same time, maybe I should and maybe I don't need to, as getting the damping working again may be just be all that I need. I did some measuring today, I measured 74KG, distance between spring seats 241mm, I have 32mm static sag and 72mm rider sag with me in normal clothes (tutu, elastic side steel caps and felt hat), the shock is lightly (only just) topped out with the bike on the side stand, obiviously I'll have a bit more rider sag with helmet, boots, hydration pack etc. Sheesh,, decisions decisions,, Oh! this is just giving me a headache, I'm off to the pub for a while.
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Benz-in-Oz screwed with this post 03-28-2014 at 02:36 AM
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Old 03-28-2014, 01:42 AM   #13952
Fuzzball
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Noticed the head bearing seal on my bike was spinning with the forks as I turned, that's not normal I'm thinking?
I've wanted to drop a set of new, greased up head bearings for a while, anyway.
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Old 03-28-2014, 02:36 PM   #13953
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benz-in-Oz View Post
It's not much good any more, I suppose it never was especially good even when I first got it, but it has deteriorated lately and is absolutely hopeless now. Acceleration doesn't happen unless the surface is like a billiard table, the wheel just hops up n' down uselessly the revs go through the roof it spits rocks and gravel out the back and jars the living bejezus outa me final drive and transmission, braking down hill into corrugated corners, I just pull up well before hand, hop off and push the bike around the corner.

I'm pretty sure I know how to fix it better than new, throw it's innards as far as I can across a large body of water, and replace same with adjustable innards from Cognent in the US of A. I think I'll leave it at that, but gee something keeps niggling me, maybe I should upgrade the spring at the same time, maybe I should and maybe I don't need to, as getting the damping working again may be just be all that I need. I did some measuring today, I measured 74KG, distance between spring seats 241mm, I have 32mm static sag and 72mm rider sag with me in normal clothes (tutu, elastic side steel caps and felt hat), the shock is lightly (only just) topped out with the bike on the side stand, obiviously I'll have a bit more rider sag with helmet, boots, hydration pack etc. Sheesh,, decisions decisions,, Oh! this is just giving me a headache, I'm off to the pub for a while.
There are choices. The stock shock can be made to work OK with a new spring to suit. As can the forks. Or swap them out for something better, for more fun in the shed!

Depends how good you want it, and how many $ you wish to dispense with. If you want to get a Cogent swap done, I have a spare stocker here you can borrow.

I've got Frank Pons visiting here again at the end of May. Still some spots left, so if you want him to sort it, or just find out more, let me know.
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Old 03-28-2014, 04:38 PM   #13954
Hoots
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Location: Gundaroo NSW OZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benz-in-Oz View Post
It's not much good any more, I suppose it never was especially good even when I first got it, but it has deteriorated lately and is absolutely hopeless now. Acceleration doesn't happen unless the surface is like a billiard table, the wheel just hops up n' down uselessly the revs go through the roof it spits rocks and gravel out the back and jars the living bejezus outa me final drive and transmission, braking down hill into corrugated corners, I just pull up well before hand, hop off and push the bike around the corner.

I'm pretty sure I know how to fix it better than new, throw it's innards as far as I can across a large body of water, and replace same with adjustable innards from Cognent in the US of A. I think I'll leave it at that, but gee something keeps niggling me, maybe I should upgrade the spring at the same time, maybe I should and maybe I don't need to, as getting the damping working again may be just be all that I need. I did some measuring today, I measured 74KG, distance between spring seats 241mm, I have 32mm static sag and 72mm rider sag with me in normal clothes (tutu, elastic side steel caps and felt hat), the shock is lightly (only just) topped out with the bike on the side stand, obiviously I'll have a bit more rider sag with helmet, boots, hydration pack etc. Sheesh,, decisions decisions,, Oh! this is just giving me a headache, I'm off to the pub for a while.
Could talk to Vince Strang about this

http://www.vincestrangmotorcycles.com.au/index.html

He set my old DR up beautifully, based on verbal communication of my weight etc

Not the same result as BergDonk has obtained by replacing the whole lot, but better than other DRs I tried
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Old 03-29-2014, 01:05 AM   #13955
Benz-in-Oz
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Thanks Berg & Hoots, those solutions would be ideal, but at the moment I'm a bit short of fun tickets, the DR is supposed to be cheap thrills, I've got a couple of British bikes and a 350GTR project in the shed that suck cash like you wouldn't believe. I reckon I may just rebuild the existing shock with a Cognet or Racetech shock shaft, my main priority is to fix the damping up back, at the moment the bike is not enjoyable to ride and I'd rather not ride than to ride and not enjoy it. Actually I'm going to sell my Bandit or SV650 to help fund building a new Beeza engine and finishing the Commando resurection, and if that happens I'll probably keep the DR for a while, in that case it would make sense to get it right both ends.
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Old 03-29-2014, 03:00 AM   #13956
0405canvet
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: brisbanish
Oddometer: 262
Suspension Matters $250+-, happy!! Linked air caps for $50, very happy!

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Old 03-30-2014, 05:25 AM   #13957
TRTN
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Melbourne
Oddometer: 20
I've got an interesting electrical issue. Any input is welcome!

Was riding along today and took a break. Turned engine off. 10 minutes later all electrics have died? Turning the key only turns on the neutral light. No power to the headlight, no horn, no blinkers, no starter... Nothing.

Starter turns over fine when bypassing the starter relay, but no spark in the plugs. Did I blow a fuse somewhere? Has the ignition key/switch died? What am I missing here? Gremlins!



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Old 03-30-2014, 10:22 PM   #13958
rutsthematter
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Location: Drouin, Gippsland
Oddometer: 135
Check the earth connection and go over all the wiring checking for chafing rubbing. Check fuses and let us know what you find.
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Old 03-30-2014, 10:34 PM   #13959
Benz-in-Oz
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Murrumbateman NSW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRTN View Post
I've got an interesting electrical issue. Any input is welcome!

Was riding along today and took a break. Turned engine off. 10 minutes later all electrics have died? Turning the key only turns on the neutral light. No power to the headlight, no horn, no blinkers, no starter... Nothing.

Starter turns over fine when bypassing the starter relay, but no spark in the plugs. Did I blow a fuse somewhere? Has the ignition key/switch died? What am I missing here? Gremlins!



Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
A faulty kill switch would knock out power to ignition and starter, but shouldn't kill the rest of the electrics. Side stand and clutch lock out switches are prime suspects on these bikes too, but shouldn't take out the lights. There is a main fuse that runs everything plus a fuse for each headlight beam, so it wont be a fuse unless it's blown all of them at once. Probably have to trouble shoot it by trial and error,
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Old 04-01-2014, 02:19 AM   #13960
CCCC
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Location: Pilbara, Western Australia
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Front Wheel Bearings

Hi Guys

Trying to fit some new front wheel bearings. What am I missing? Appears that the wheel bearings are binding against the spacer that lives between the two bearing.....
First time I'm doing them, using bearings from Vince Strang.

Thanks
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Old 04-01-2014, 03:09 AM   #13961
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Wheel Bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by CCCC View Post
Hi Guys

Trying to fit some new front wheel bearings. What am I missing? Appears that the wheel bearings are binding against the spacer that lives between the two bearing.....
First time I'm doing them, using bearings from Vince Strang.

Thanks
I have found that too in the past. What I did was drive the right side bearing back out a bit. Only needs a mm. Just enough to allow the spacer to 'rattle around', and you'll find your bearings will spin freely.

Here below is a page from the workshop manual. Note it shows a clearance between the right hand wheel bearing and the spacer.(EDIT: INNER HUB CASTING) It doesn't state how much clearance so I would say just some clearance is sufficient to stop binding. It also says install the left bearing first so I assume the left side should be in hard and the right one would be the one that you may need to back off a bit to give that clearance. The left side would be more critical for the alignment with the disc/caliper relationship.

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Old 04-01-2014, 03:55 AM   #13962
rvt
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Oddometer: 730
The bearing inner races and spacer all turn together and are somewhat compressed together by the axle bolt. Turn it all together to check smooothness.
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Old 04-01-2014, 04:16 AM   #13963
badmanners
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
I have found that too in the past. What I did was drive the right side bearing back out a bit. Only needs a mm. Just enough to allow the spacer to 'rattle around', and you'll find your bearings will spin freely.

Here below is a page from the workshop manual. Note it shows a clearance between the right hand wheel bearing and the spacer. It doesn't state how much clearance so I would say just some clearance is sufficient to stop binding. It also says install the left bearing first so I assume the left side should be in hard and the right one would be the one that you may need to back off a bit to give that clearance. The left side would be more critical for the alignment with the disc/caliper relationship.

In the above circled picture from the manual the clearance is between the inner casting of the hub and the bearing, the spacer between the bearings along with the inner races of the bearings are all in contact along the axle when the axle nut is tensioned and the wheel and outer race of the bearing all spins around this.

CCCC it sounds like you are exactly right!

kezzajohnson is I think also exactly right re the alignment for the brake caliper.

Cheers, badmanners.
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Old 04-01-2014, 04:40 AM   #13964
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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wheels bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by badmanners View Post
In the above circled picture from the manual the clearance is between the inner casting of the hub and the bearing, the spacer between the bearings along with the inner races of the bearings are all in contact along the axle when the axle nut is tensioned and the wheel and outer race of the bearing all spins around this.

CCCC it sounds like you are exactly right!

kezzajohnson is I think also exactly right re the alignment for the brake caliper.

Cheers, badmanners.
I stand corrected. Yes clearance is in the inner casting of hub where the bearings outer race would sit against if driven in all the way. Driving the right bearing in all the way by means of outer race (using driver on the outer race to drive the bearing in) would cause the outer race of the bearing to be offset from its inner race once the inner race contacts the spacer. That would certainly cause binding.

Same applies to rear wheel bearings except the left side bearing gets the clearance because the rear disc is on the right and alignment more critical.

So, what does everyone else use to drive their bearings in with ?
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:01 AM   #13965
rvt
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Oddometer: 730
Bugger

When I replaced mine (also from VSM) I drove all the outer races all the way in. Looks like it needs a tweak. Really should read the manual and not guess.

I'm guessing the special tool is flat, so pushes the inner and outer race together in the same plane. Sound right? So it would stop when the inner race contacts the spacer.
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