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Old 04-01-2014, 05:42 AM   #13966
kezzajohnson
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvt View Post
When I replaced mine (also from VSM) I drove all the outer races all the way in. Looks like it needs a tweak. Really should read the manual and not guess.

I'm guessing the special tool is flat, so pushes the inner and outer race together in the same plane. Sound right? So it would stop when the inner race contacts the spacer.
Yeah, sounds right. I too have been driving the outer races using a socket of the same diameter and then backing one off a bit. I didn't like the idea of driving them using the inner race because that would probably damage the bearing. Flat round tool sounds like the go, like you say, that contacts the inner and outer race and drives the bearing in evenly until the inner race hits the spacer. Why wouldn't Suzuki just machine the hub to the exact dimensions?
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:41 AM   #13967
CCCC
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How do you guys back it off?? By tapping the inner race from the other side??


Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Yeah, sounds right. I too have been driving the outer races using a socket of the same diameter and then backing one off a bit. I didn't like the idea of driving them using the inner race because that would probably damage the bearing. Flat round tool sounds like the go, like you say, that contacts the inner and outer race and drives the bearing in evenly until the inner race hits the spacer. Why wouldn't Suzuki just machine the hub to the exact dimensions?
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:18 AM   #13968
Big Willy
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Can't remember whether the DR wheels have a circlip to locate a bearing but if it does, this is the bearing that should be knocked in first.

Start by tapping the outer race of the bearing in a circular motion with a small hammer until it is flush with the bearing housing of the hub.

Grab the biggest socket you can find something like a 30mm and placing it on the outer race of the bearing... tap that also in a circular motion until it seats all the way home. Put the retaining circlip in.

Spacer in and do the other side exactly the same way until it goes no further.

Test for a nice smooth turning of the bearings by putting your finger inside a bearing and twisting it. If the spacer is too loose, the RHS bearing will need a gentle tap in even further...gentle because you don't want to shift the LHS bearing again.

If it is too tight and the bearings are binding and hard to turn, tap the centre of the LHS bearing sharply to displace the RHS bearing slightly.

Check at the finish that the circlip isn't bending outwards trying to get out of it's groove
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:49 AM   #13969
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvt View Post
When I replaced mine (also from VSM) I drove all the outer races all the way in. Looks like it needs a tweak. Really should read the manual and not guess.

I'm guessing the special tool is flat, so pushes the inner and outer race together in the same plane. Sound right? So it would stop when the inner race contacts the spacer.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Yeah, sounds right. I too have been driving the outer races using a socket of the same diameter and then backing one off a bit. I didn't like the idea of driving them using the inner race because that would probably damage the bearing. Flat round tool sounds like the go, like you say, that contacts the inner and outer race and drives the bearing in evenly until the inner race hits the spacer. Why wouldn't Suzuki just machine the hub to the exact dimensions?
Yes to the red highlight. Why wouldn't Zuki machine exact dimensions: the inner spacer might compress incrementally after dozens of reuses, so the hub can't be exact.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CCCC View Post
How do you guys back it off?? By tapping the inner race from the other side??
No need to back off (as I just recently figured out). I use a 1/4" thick washer, with the O.D. just a bit smaller than the outer bearing race and a threaded rod. The inner race stops when it contacts the spacer and the outer race is, at the same time, in perfect alignment with the inner race.



For instance (although this is the cush hub):

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Old 04-01-2014, 02:42 PM   #13970
rvt
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I'm not keen on hitting the inner race. Was taught to never do this to bearings, can damage the balls/races slightly and cause trouble later.
Think I'll leave them for now, replace them before the next big trip. $55aud down the drain though.
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Old 04-01-2014, 10:18 PM   #13971
BergDonk
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I have some aluminium discs the right diameter and a length of threaded bar so goes in just like the book, easy. Disc side first is the easiest way to remember it IMHO. Simultaneous contact with both inner and outer races is best.
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Old 04-02-2014, 12:46 AM   #13972
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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discs

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I have some aluminium discs the right diameter and a length of threaded bar so goes in just like the book, easy. Disc side first is the easiest way to remember it IMHO. Simultaneous contact with both inner and outer races is best.
+1 that BergDonk. Might have to make up some for myself for the future.
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:15 AM   #13973
gavo
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I use a socket or old outer bearing shell to tap new bearings in and remember to freeze you r bearings first and warm the hub, just in the sun will do. Because each time you hammer a bearing in it takes just a little bit of metal from the hub, do it enough times and the bearing will move in the hub.
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:44 AM   #13974
philth
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bash it in with a rock
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Old 04-02-2014, 05:13 AM   #13975
Itchi
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Joined: Mar 2014
Oddometer: 7
Just bought my DR650se

have my full license but always stuck to my beautiful honda spada after a chain of tiny 50 and 250cc bikes to learn on.

just upgraded to my dr650se bought second hand for 5K.
2009 model with some adventure gear.

can't wait to get it serviced and inspected then im out.
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:11 AM   #13976
rvt
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Location: Western Australia
Oddometer: 834
Good choice Itchi!
Now you need to bling it up, so you can tell it apart from the rest of ours.
See you on a Perth ride sometime.
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:18 PM   #13977
TRTN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benz-in-Oz View Post
A faulty kill switch would knock out power to ignition and starter, but shouldn't kill the rest of the electrics. Side stand and clutch lock out switches are prime suspects on these bikes too, but shouldn't take out the lights. There is a main fuse that runs everything plus a fuse for each headlight beam, so it wont be a fuse unless it's blown all of them at once. Probably have to trouble shoot it by trial and error,
Quote:
Originally Posted by rutsthematter View Post
Check the earth connection and go over all the wiring checking for chafing rubbing. Check fuses and let us know what you find.
Turns out it was probably corrosion / a loose connector somewhere in the bundle behind the headlight. It failed mid ride after a short break and i couldn't find the fault. RACV dropped the bike at a local bike shop who took about an hour to figure it out.

I took most of the wiring apart on the trail but just had bad luck i suppose. It was probably related to dropping the bike in a bog hole on a trip over Christmas. Think i'll get some dielectric grease or contact cleaner on the weekend and 'fix' all the connections i can find. Bypassing the clutch and sidestand switches is also well overdue.
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Old 04-05-2014, 11:59 PM   #13978
Thumper Dan
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Joined: Dec 2011
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Iphone

I know this is off topic and may get a butt kickin' but has anyone tried the Hema maps on the iphone?

Went camping out on the DR and could have used some quick GPS assistance (the papeer one got wet )

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Old 04-06-2014, 12:11 AM   #13979
CCCC
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I've got them on the Ipad. Like them a lot but some are not as up to date as I would have liked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
I know this is off topic and may get a butt kickin' but has anyone tried the Hema maps on the iphone?

Went camping out on the DR and could have used some quick GPS assistance (the papeer one got wet )

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Old 04-06-2014, 12:40 AM   #13980
live4daride
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Joined: Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itchi View Post
have my full license but always stuck to my beautiful honda spada after a chain of tiny 50 and 250cc bikes to learn on.

just upgraded to my dr650se bought second hand for 5K.
2009 model with some adventure gear.

can't wait to get it serviced and inspected then im out.
Was that from Coogee? I test rode it a last weekend, well set up machine.
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