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Old 06-30-2014, 10:11 PM   #14236
Goosefeather
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
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yep - no names, no pack-drill
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:47 AM   #14237
grrant1058
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Originally Posted by Goosefeather View Post
yep - no names, no pack-drill
Very mature Mr Feather. I once read a great quote......

"he who is without sin throw the first stone"
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Old 07-01-2014, 06:40 PM   #14238
greentea
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Location: Canberra
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Ive been having issues with the DR lately. It seems to be that its 'stumbling' when in idle. Almost like a miss somewhere. Ive made a video to see if you guys can hear it.
I rode it to work this morning, freezing cold, started fine without choke. Opening choke seems to make the idle rougher almost like the carb floods for a second. A couple of times when coasting to the lights it stalled but was able to start it again with no problem.
I got the carby off last weekend and noticed the needle was not stock (I have no idea what it is). It did not have the plastic ring, only a single shim. Im wondering if the issue is caused by it running rich?
Would adjusting the mixture screw be the best thing or do I need to play around with the needle.
Bike has a staintune exhaust and cut airbox.

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Old 07-02-2014, 01:36 AM   #14239
Thumper Dan
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Location: Australia, Northern NSW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greentea View Post
Ive been having issues with the DR lately. It seems to be that its 'stumbling' when in idle. Almost like a miss somewhere. Ive made a video to see if you guys can hear it.
I rode it to work this morning, freezing cold, started fine without choke. Opening choke seems to make the idle rougher almost like the carb floods for a second. A couple of times when coasting to the lights it stalled but was able to start it again with no problem.
I got the carby off last weekend and noticed the needle was not stock (I have no idea what it is). It did not have the plastic ring, only a single shim. Im wondering if the issue is caused by it running rich?
Would adjusting the mixture screw be the best thing or do I need to play around with the needle.
Bike has a staintune exhaust and cut airbox.

I think you hit the head on the nail. If it starts without choke in the Canberra cold; yes, its running too rich. Why is it though?

Sorry, I don't have a BST standard carb but check and make sure choke cable isn't broken at the brass bit as it enters the carb, I've heard this issue is common.

Apart from that, you may need to pull apart and clean out jets etc. It will probably be a process of elmination.

I'm sure others will chime in.

Keep us posted.
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:26 AM   #14240
Portly
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Try adjusting the mixture screw in.
If your needle is pretty much as low as it can go one of the jets may be too big
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:00 AM   #14241
oodeano
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greentea View Post
It seems to be that its 'stumbling' when in idle.
I have found crap often gets into the choke cable a the carb end stopping the choke from completely closing.

Sounds much like that and gets terrible economy - pop the cable out and give it a clean . .
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:08 AM   #14242
rvt
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+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by oodeano View Post
I have found crap often gets into the choke cable a the carb end stopping the choke from completely closing.

Sounds much like that and gets terrible economy - pop the cable out and give it a clean . .
This can be cured with a choke button direct on the carb, or a remote choke kit if you have a Safari tank.
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:02 AM   #14243
stumps
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Request for a few more Barrett exhaust pics

Had a cpl of requests for some more pics of the Barrett exhaust on my DR.







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Old 07-02-2014, 04:31 PM   #14244
greentea
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^nice exhaust! Can you post a video so we can hear it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by oodeano View Post
I have found crap often gets into the choke cable a the carb end stopping the choke from completely closing.

Sounds much like that and gets terrible economy - pop the cable out and give it a clean . .
Well I did notice on the weekend that the choke cable has the same issue as
this guy

http://drriders.com/topic10791-10.html

The rubber boot is separated from the plastic nut, would that affect the tension? I thought that aslong as the nut was ok then it would hold the choke cable tension.
But would that still cause the bike to run rough with the choke pulled fully open? I would understand if the bike was warm, but cold starts and choke open is harder to start the bike than with it closed.
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:52 PM   #14245
Portly
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The only way to know is to pull the choke cable out of the carby and see if every thing is sliding freely.
The photo above looks like a seized cable.
The separation looks like the rubber grommet has pulled back rather than anything broken.
As others have said chuck the cable and get a button.
VSM have them in stock but if you need a few things look at Procycle US.
When I order from Procycle I usually try to get a few things I will need in the future to help cover freight. (eg a 10 pack of oil filters will usually cover freight costs and still save on AU prices alone).
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:53 PM   #14246
oodeano
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greentea View Post
The rubber boot is separated from the plastic nut, would that affect the tension? I thought that aslong as the nut was ok then it would hold the choke cable tension.

No idea

As rvt said above - I got the button choke and removed the cable - easy enough to still get at with the IMS tank..
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:56 PM   #14247
0405canvet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stumps View Post
Had a cpl of requests for some more pics of the Barrett exhaust on my DR.








Very nice pipe! After tuning the carb the bike pulls strong from very low RPM to red line. We had to weld the joint from muffler to midpipe as excessive leak seemed to cause unacceptable decel backfire. Hard to believe but he is still getting 23km/l!!
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:18 PM   #14248
stumps
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Joined: Mar 2013
Location: Out Redlands way Brisbane QLD Australia
Oddometer: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0405canvet View Post
Very nice pipe! After tuning the carb the bike pulls strong from very low RPM to red line. We had to weld the joint from muffler to midpipe as excessive leak seemed to cause unacceptable decel backfire. Hard to believe but he is still getting 23km/l!!
Haha, thanks 0405canvet. That is due to your fine work.
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:46 AM   #14249
rvt
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Location: Western Australia
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reverse the rear axle?

Saw an interesting idea in another thread recently.
Insert the rear axle from the brake caliper side, to make trailside wheel removal easier. Lay the bike on the left side. Easier access for lining up the disc and pads when refitting the wheel.
I can't think of a good reason not to do this. Thoughts?
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Old 07-03-2014, 04:09 AM   #14250
JAKE91
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Location: Queanbeyan NSW
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Originally Posted by rvt View Post
Saw an interesting idea in another thread recently.

Insert the rear axle from the brake caliper side, to make trailside wheel removal easier. Lay the bike on the left side. Easier access for lining up the disc and pads when refitting the wheel.

I can't think of a good reason not to do this. Thoughts?

I see your reasoning but Id rather keep it original as I put the axle through the wheel and find it easier to align the caliper to the wheel/rotor, rather than align the wheel to the caliper. You have to slide the caliper from its mount anyway as you pull the wheel out or the tyre gets hung up in the caliper



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