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Old 07-14-2014, 02:35 AM   #14281
Weldr
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Rear Rim

Need to true up the rear wheel, where should the centre of the rim be positioned
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:21 AM   #14282
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:29 AM   #14283
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Rim/Hub offset

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Originally Posted by Weldr View Post
Need to true up the rear wheel, where should the centre of the rim be positioned

When I built my motard wheels, i took these measurements first to then work out the new offset for wider rims on stock hubs

My stock rear hub and rim measurements are as follows:

Lay a straight edge across the sprocket side of hub (with cush drive removed) and the measurement from straight edge to the outer edge of the rim should be 28.5 mm approx

On the other side (disc brake side without disc) = 18.5 approx - with disc on add about 1.5mm (disc sits over a lip on the hub)

Another measurement taken was with rear wheel installed the right side swingarm inside edge to the rim bead seat edge of rim (inner circumference of bead edge of rim) = 48mm

If this doesn't make sense, please ask.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:26 AM   #14284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldr View Post
Need to true up the rear wheel, where should the centre of the rim be positioned
Is the wheel buckled or are you replacing the hub or what?
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Old 07-14-2014, 06:41 AM   #14285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
When I built my motard wheels, i took these measurements first to then work out the new offset for wider rims on stock hubs

My stock rear hub and rim measurements are as follows:

Lay a straight edge across the sprocket side of hub (with cush drive removed) and the measurement from straight edge to the outer edge of the rim should be 28.5 mm approx

On the other side (disc brake side without disc) = 18.5 approx - with disc on add about 1.5mm (disc sits over a lip on the hub)

Another measurement taken was with rear wheel installed the right side swingarm inside edge to the rim bead seat edge of rim (inner circumference of bead edge of rim) = 48mm

If this doesn't make sense, please ask.
Thanks, that is good information
I wouldn't say it's buckled, bought it recently, someone has tightened the spokes unevenly
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:19 AM   #14286
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Do you have access to a couple Dial indicators? And a means of rotating the wheel off the bike IE vee blocks with the axel fitted? That being said what sort of riding do you mainly do road or off road? If mainly road you'll want it as true as possible. Nothing worse than out of round or crap balancing.
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:02 AM   #14287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wetndry View Post
Do you have access to a couple Dial indicators? And a means of rotating the wheel off the bike IE vee blocks with the axel fitted? That being said what sort of riding do you mainly do road or off road? If mainly road you'll want it as true as possible. Nothing worse than out of round or crap balancing.
You can do it on the bike if you have to with a pointer fixed to the swingarm for horizontal alignment. Its not so easy to check the vertical alignment with a tyre on the rim cause tyres aren't always that round themselves. If possible remove the tyre and use a fixed pointer on the ground to measure the rims vertical alignment. Not as accurate as a truing machine and dial indicators but dial indicators can be a headfuck too cause they measure very minor fluctuations that are hard to correct and that won't make any real difference anyway.

Because I was building a set of motard wheels from scratch, I purchased a wheel truing machine and one dial guage (just shifted the dial guage to measure vertical and horizontal), because I wanted them perfect. Not so critical for the trail wheels but they are very handy to have around for doing balances after tyre changes.

There's several pretty good 'how toos' on the net.

Here's one.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcyc.../spoke-wheels/
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:23 PM   #14288
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When I've done bicycle wheels in the past I found it helped between truing checks to remove the wheel, place it on something to support the hub and apply weight to the rim on opposing sides of the wheel, turn the wheel, repeat, turn repeat etc. The spokes try to twist as they are tightened and often bind against each other. You'll hear things "pinging" as you go round the wheel and then when you go for another round of truing you'll have a more reliable starting point.

Hope that made sense. It's probably not as applicable for motorcycle wheels as the spokes are a lot thicker and have less tendency to bind.
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:49 PM   #14289
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all fixed.
well .. not completely as it turns out.

Bike is still runnning but this morning's commute to work was accompanied by the "no power thing".

It seems not to be speed related, but more decel related. If I'm sitting on 90 kph and I roll off - even just a little - the bike bogs for a few seconds when I roll on the accelerator. I'm pretty sure it did it at lower speeds too but I'm not super confident about that claim. It's not constant either - sometimes it will do it (the 90 kph on the highway seemed to be pretty "reliable", but 90 kph a little further down the track seemed to be happy), sometimes not.

Thanks to my trusty new inline fuel filter, I could see that it still had fuel in it, so at least I can factor out the fuel tap.

Looks like I get to pull the carb and at least give it a once over after all!

cheers
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:48 AM   #14290
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Sticky or worn slide perhaps? Possibly you back off the throttle which reduces the air flow and then the slide takes a short while to catch up. While the slides stuck up it's still allowing excess fuel through to the engine. The time it takes for the slide to catch up and the excess accumulated fuel to be burned off may be the flat spot that your feeling.
Or perhaps something simpler that takes less words to explain?

Edit: On second thoughts it just sounds like a rich needle. Could be a worn needle jet, unless it's been played with, then it could be the wrong needle, or the wrong clip position.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slapper View Post
well .. not completely as it turns out.

Bike is still runnning but this morning's commute to work was accompanied by the "no power thing".

It seems not to be speed related, but more decel related. If I'm sitting on 90 kph and I roll off - even just a little - the bike bogs for a few seconds when I roll on the accelerator. I'm pretty sure it did it at lower speeds too but I'm not super confident about that claim. It's not constant either - sometimes it will do it (the 90 kph on the highway seemed to be pretty "reliable", but 90 kph a little further down the track seemed to be happy), sometimes not.

Thanks to my trusty new inline fuel filter, I could see that it still had fuel in it, so at least I can factor out the fuel tap.

Looks like I get to pull the carb and at least give it a once over after all!

cheers



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Old 07-17-2014, 07:32 AM   #14291
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fitted a 606 on rear today.Took off michelinT63,just about cactus after only 3500km.too much tar,not enough dirt!
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Old 07-17-2014, 04:54 PM   #14292
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Presumably a Thai made T63? They seem to last a lot less than the Czecho made ones, at least for me.
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Old 07-17-2014, 05:14 PM   #14293
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Presumably a Thai made T63? They seem to last a lot less than the Czecho made ones, at least for me.
Dunno where it was made....but dissapointed in wear.See what happens with 606,they are popular.Have used mitas e07 and got 8450kms out of it.
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Old 07-17-2014, 05:51 PM   #14294
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T63s

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Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Presumably a Thai made T63? They seem to last a lot less than the Czecho made ones, at least for me.
How can one tell the difference between a Thai and Czecho made T63?

I can't seem to find anything on the tyre that tells me. The last one I bought and had fitted by the local dealer and didn't think to check.
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:03 PM   #14295
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Its moulded onto the sidewall along with all the other stuff 'Made in XXXXX'.

The rubber has a different sheen to it too, Thai ones are shinier. Czecho ones last the same as a Mitas E09 with the same 'sheen to them', so presumably the same formula. Thai ones, about 60-70% life. This is with a couple of each to date on my DR, so I didn't just read it on the 'net. Still a limited sample though. I actually have a Thai T63 on right now, so more testing to come, as soon as its alive again. Real soon now in fact.

'Mi' in Mitas is Michelin, who are major shareholders.

They may also be made elsewhere. Michelin has factories all over, including Spain and France that I've had their tyres from before.
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