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Old 02-21-2007, 10:04 AM   #16
creeper OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nfranco
Groovy, thanks. Sorry should have been more specific, so the same values apply regardless of carb type?
As the intent of a TPS is to provide input for a 2nd dimension to the ignition map rather than any "information" for the carb... yes, the ignition input settings would be the same for any TPS equipped carb.

Basic ignition systems are based on RPM; as RPM increases, timing advance does as well... until full advance is reached.
With a second dimension of throttle position relative to RPM, a second map layer can retard the timing if throttle position doesn't match the RPM parameter, or leave it at the higher advance curve if it does.
Even smarter ignition systems use the spark plug resistance as a reference of cylinder pressure... a 3rd dimension to retard timing under excessive loads.

C
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Old 02-21-2007, 02:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
... Even smarter ignition systems use the spark plug resistance as a reference of cylinder pressure... a 3rd dimension to retard timing under excessive loads.

C
Interesting... if you want to discuss the mechanics of these adjustments to timing and their utility I am all If this is something that I can investigate on my own dime, then throw a dog a bone (link to further reading?).
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Old 02-21-2007, 05:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
Interesting... if you want to discuss the mechanics of these adjustments to timing and their utility I am all If this is something that I can investigate on my own dime, then throw a dog a bone (link to further reading?).
Several brands of motorcycles use spark resistance as a third igniton reference... the only one I'm aware of that uses it on a carbureted bike is H-D.
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:31 PM   #19
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Again I thank you sir.
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
Several brands of motorcycles use spark resistance as a third igniton reference... the only one I'm aware of that uses it on a carbureted bike is H-D.
A few too many "free patents online" sites and a NASA pdf about the electrical properties of aircraft skins and...

Jacobs ignition system described

Optimal combustion efficiency - more bang for your buck - having your cake and eating it too - OK, why aren't we all doin' it?
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Old 02-21-2007, 09:15 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjf
BST40 mods:

* grose-jet instead of useless float needle valve system
* dial-a-jet installed onto airbox boot
* bore divider on intake side
* loaded's fuel mixture screw

Sounds like quite a project.

But Man, I won't be doing all that to the BST, I just want it to stop boging when hitting obtacles and jumping.
I noticed some bogging with my HSR42 the last time I was out. I hadn't ridden it in a while and I think the carb went to crap. That's one reason I've junked the float needle valve. Precision adjustment is simply not possible. It will only last until the needle valve wears down.

I've got no idea what causes bog. I have heard that one cause is fuel sloshing around the main jet area. One of my carbs has some fuel foam to protect the supply under the main jet. I have an extra capacity nut (yost performance) I can use if I notice it starving for fuel on rough surfaces. On my new BST I've set the float to slightly lower than level, and darnit, it's going to stay put! Tomorrow if I get time I will flush coolant, reseal header & pipe flanges, and install the BST.

I just finished welding on the O2 sensor. I really suck at that. I bought some bungs off ebay for like $7.50/pair shipped, and I placed one on the midpipe. That's a Bosch #11027 sensor from Auto Zone for $18. Then the rest is swapping the meter over when I get this bike running and I'm done with it on the other bike.

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Old 02-21-2007, 10:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potatoho
Precision adjustment is simply not possible. It will only last until the needle valve wears down.

Have you got a link explaining what a grosse (sp) valve is / how it works ?

I just finished welding on the O2 sensor. I really suck at that. yeah, you do suck at that . You need what I've got - A mig welder, an arc welder, an oxy acetaleyne welder, and a father thats a retired panelbeater that know how to use them I'm not real flash with welding either





On my new BST I've set the float to slightly lower than level, and darnit, it's going to stay put!
I went to adjust my float level down and striped the heads out of the screws

Anyone know what the technical description of the screws are ?

e.g. AH SCREW DIN0912-M 6X16

I'd ezy out the old ones, and take them into the fastner shop, but if they don't have them, I'm stuffed as I need the bike on the weekend. so I'm going to leave the striped head ones in till I have replacments. The ones in didn't budge even with an impact driver, I can see I'm going to have to take the carb out to do this
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Old 02-22-2007, 12:35 AM   #23
potatoho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjf
I went to adjust my float level down and striped the heads out of the screws

Anyone know what the technical description of the screws are ?

e.g. AH SCREW DIN0912-M 6X16

I'd ezy out the old ones, and take them into the fastner shop, but if they don't have them, I'm stuffed as I need the bike on the weekend. so I'm going to leave the striped head ones in till I have replacments. The ones in didn't budge even with an impact driver, I can see I'm going to have to take the carb out to do this
I had the exact same thing happen when I tried to take mine out for the second time. Those screws are soft. Carefully slot them with a dremel and use a 1/4" ratchet & flathead bit. I get the screws at ace hardware. Stock are M5x16 but I usually get a few mm longer and add a split washer and a regular washer. Split washer tears up the aluminum if used alone.

Grose-jet info; http://jimsgarage.wordpress.com/2006...the-grose-jet/

D&G probably makes one which plugs right into the BST. Since I already had some for a TM34 I just used it. It took about 5 minutes to make a work-alike to the BST needle seat. This is the one I've been using on my carbs; http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/07-416.html

I cut a piece of brass tube (ace hardware hobby section), and a drilled out washer. Slid the washer on the tube so that the shape matched the BST needle seat. Soldered together. Then installed grose-jet. This is where it is weak because I used some teflon tape and seal-all. If you can machine a piece with threads you'd be better off. I also slightly enlarged the hole in the float cage so it would assemble easier. The final install was to slip an o-ring on the brass and then I spread some seal-all on it, pressed it in and fully assembled the bowl so it kept pressure as it cured.

Here's what it looked like after install on the BST:





I've been watching my PWK carb which I installed a couple of months ago and it is still air-tight. Works wonderfully so far, and that thing was a dribbler like you wouldn't believe.

PWK was a little more involved, but in retrospect very easy. I had to mill down the seat to get the correct height and clearance. Barely fits. I took a large countersink bit on the drill press and it buzzed down the PWK seat & body to the depth that I needed. Then I plugged up the seat holes with quicksteel and I installed the same model grose-jet in there. LOL it looks stupid as hell, but I don't care. For less than $10 and it works perfectly, it beats the hell out of the $75+ I've spent on PWK needle valves in the past 6 months.



I haven't actually installed my BST with grose-jet yet. Seems pretty solid, but who knows. At least I didn't have to massacre the carb like my PWK, so I can just carry a spare piece or the original pieces until I am confident.
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Old 02-22-2007, 02:17 AM   #24
rjf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potatoho
I had the exact same thing happen when I tried to take mine out for the second time. Those screws are soft. Carefully slot them with a dremel and use a 1/4" ratchet & flathead bit. I get the screws at ace hardware. Stock are M5x16 but I usually get a few mm longer and add a split washer and a regular washer. Split washer tears up the aluminum if used alone.
Ta mate, your a life saver.
Grose-jet info; http://jimsgarage.wordpress.com/2006...the-grose-jet/
Sounds like a good mod, mine isn't leaking (yet ) so I'll wait till I need to fix it.
.
Ta mate, your a life saver.
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:51 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potatoho
Stock are M5x16
I dug up a Creeper answer in one of the threads. The stock screws are M5x14 and 0.8mm threads. Anything between 14 and probably 18 is good. 14mm would be tight with any washers. Definitely use allen heads or some other non-Phillips.
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Old 02-22-2007, 09:28 AM   #26
Flyin Brian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjf
I went to adjust my float level down and striped the heads out of the screws

Anyone know what the technical description of the screws are ?

e.g. AH SCREW DIN0912-M 6X16

I'd ezy out the old ones, and take them into the fastner shop, but if they don't have them, I'm stuffed as I need the bike on the weekend. so I'm going to leave the striped head ones in till I have replacments. The ones in didn't budge even with an impact driver, I can see I'm going to have to take the carb out to do this
Same here, striped out the heads and had to easy out one of them. Replaced with longer allen head screws so that I can remove float without taking carb off bike!!!!
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:14 AM   #27
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breather lines

Creeper

now this is only from reading and talking to my Husky dealer but my belief is the FCR really needs to breathe. Fletcher, the dealer, thinks it has 4 breather hoses because it needs them.

I also believe the FCR will suck dirt in through the hoses. I'm working up a filtration system that I'm going to run the hoses through. I haven't decided if I will run all 4 through one high filter or pair them off into 2 filters, high and low. Here's a TT thread on it:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...ht=fcr+filters

Or you could just go this route:

http://www.kevinscycleracing.com/int...carburetor.htm
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:28 AM   #28
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Where did those lines go on the MXC?
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:39 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DC950
Creeper

now this is only from reading and talking to my Husky dealer but my belief is the FCR really needs to breathe. Fletcher, the dealer, thinks it has 4 breather hoses because it needs them.

I also believe the FCR will suck dirt in through the hoses. I'm working up a filtration system that I'm going to run the hoses through. I haven't decided if I will run all 4 through one high filter or pair them off into 2 filters, high and low. Here's a TT thread on it:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...ht=fcr+filters

Or you could just go this route:

http://www.kevinscycleracing.com/int...carburetor.htm
There are lots of carb vent hose filter variations on the market... I have a drawer full of them. In-line one way valves and filters... stand alone carb filter "kits"... you name it, I have them.
What will I settle on? I'll let you know when I get there.
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
There are lots of carb vent hose filter variations on the market... I have a drawer full of them. In-line one way valves and filters... stand alone carb filter "kits"... you name it, I have them.
What will I settle on? I'll let you know when I get there.
I figured you had a drawer of that stuff but since you didn't mention it...

I just ordered the kit on that site. Super nice guy and ships today too.
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