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Old 02-27-2007, 01:11 PM   #46
potatoho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjf
Have you tried rotating the Throttle twist grip housing around so where the cables enter is toward thr rear / bottom rather than the top ?
Nope, lemme try it. My 1999 is by default along the bottom, but I haven't tried towards the rear. Would be kinda weird though with the start button along the top. I think I have it currently squared away, but I will have to make cables if I were to ever put on my larger tank. Hopefully with my 50+ mpg (I hope) I won't need to LOL.

Not having much luck in cleaning out my radiators of crust. Tried some CLR but it's hard to plug everything up. I think I will have to mount them up and try some of the radiator cleaning stuff.

Finished electricals. So now it's just coolant and exhaust to go.
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:24 PM   #47
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OK, all done. That took forever. Just need to give it a day or so for the silicone to cure and to charge the battery. I was going to run a baseline without the dial-a-jet but I got carried away and installed it since I wanted to run the plumbing and seal it. I'm not going to fiddle with the adjustment on it because it is retarded. I'm just sticking it in the middle setting.

The jet4power install was very easy. It's really just two wires. I found a threaded frame hole up front and I used that for ground, and then the wire to the sensor. Power is just a 9V battery I zip-tie to my bars. It lasts forever, like 40 hours. I just drilled some holes in my headlight mask and mounted the unit there.

I'm going to run with the standard side cover (not race cover), and with the snorkel removed and airbox top enlarged. That race cover is annoying.

I'm kinda worried about my battery. It doesn't seem to be taking a charge very well. Going to suck if I need to get a new one.

Assuming the battery charges and I don't have any coolant leaks, I should be able to start it on Thursday and swap some jets while on the stand to get a decent O2 reading. No time to ride until later in the week.
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Old 02-28-2007, 04:11 PM   #48
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I had to buy a new battery at a Honda shop. $70! That's bad but I guess it could have been worse. Started it up today and ran it for a while. No riding yet, but it seems to run nice. Sure is quiet. Just checking for leaks and stuff about to catch fire. Forgot how messed up the fuel hose is on the E. I may have to order an OEM because it has to take some weird turns.

Took a while for the O2 sensor to get up to temp. It is pretty cool to be able to turn the fuel screw and move the light around. I haven't tuned any other areas yet. I need to be able to ride it to get a picture of all rpms. I just have OEM jets in it right now so I'm sure it is way off.
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Old 02-28-2007, 05:52 PM   #49
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OK I couldn't wait, and I just took a ride. Surprisingly, it is fairly close to ideal mixture from idle to about 1/2. About one LED to the rich side though. Definitely runs better than with my pumper carbs. Seems much more responsive than I remember, not entirely sure why as I haven't done anything yet. Perhaps the dial-a-jet, my silencer repack, or maybe I finally got my exhaust sealed proper. No decel popping whatsoever so who knows.

Kinda fell apart when I wicked it too far, but that's probably just my main because I think I have a 142.5 in there and it needs to be about 10 higher.
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Old 03-01-2007, 07:01 PM   #50
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Had some more time to put in a few more tuning rides today. I've got the mixture where I want, though some things still need fixing. The O2 sensor is showing an obvious fuel starvation issue as well as a bit of mixture wavering in the higher rpms.

The fuel starvation is either my piece of crap kinky fuel line, my grose-jet, or it could also be a gunky petcock. I'll check the cap too, but I don't even have a hose on it so it should be open. Plus it isn't a gradual thing, it's like if I get on it, it will run for a few seconds and then the O2 will peg lean.

The mixture instability is kinda puzzling. Lower rpms seem pretty smooth and stable. At mid range cruising I am seeing quite a hopping around, which is also audible as small combustion artifacts and vibrations. It could either be a sticky slide, too much needle wear (there is a mark), fuel starvation, dial-a-jet kicking in, or even a funky ignition. I realize a CV slide should hop a little, but it is hopping amongst 3 LEDs worth on my meter which is huge considering that it takes a whole clip position to normally move it one LED. I think it may be related to the fuel starvation.

I guess I'll have to tackle things one at a time. First thing is to replace the fuel hose with a 5/16 ID and spring reinforced. Also I will test the petcock, as it didn't seem like fuel was moving very quickly through the hose, though I just wrote that off as having a full bowl. I don't think my grose-jet is a problem since I have used the same model on my two stroke which needs enough fuel for 30mpg, and I am currently getting mid 40's on the LC4. I run sustained speeds on both.

Darn this thing is hard to ride. No wonder I crash so much. I spent so much time getting the geometry set up on my 300 that this LC4 feels like I have no directional control whatsoever. I need to move some things around, it's messed up.

Edited.. I forgot something interesting. It turns out that the BST40 in this application (1999 LC4) doesn't quite deliver enough airflow to handle the off-idle condition. I have it set for ideal mixture at idle and everywhere else, but there is a sharp lean spike at just above idle. I believe this is a disconnect arising because it doesn't meet the minimum airflow to normalize the slide position. That also explains why my bore divider was so successful, because it provided a smaller venturi for this condition. I think I will compensate with either the pilot system or perhaps manipulating the needle diameter. For some reason it only became noticeable when I got down to #2 clip position, so it may just be an artifact of that.

potatoho screwed with this post 03-01-2007 at 07:42 PM
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Old 05-05-2007, 01:20 PM   #51
losiu
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Question throttle sensor question

Hey guys,

I have no idea if this is the place to post this but...
Please take a look at this pic and tell me on which cables I should measure the voltage (throttle sensor) and why my reading was "0" when I tried between the black and the yellow ???

The bike clearly lacks power. Is there anything that's broken? How do I set the throttle sensor right in practice??

What is not working properly if it's true that there is no voltage on these cable?

Thanks in advance for any answers,

Losiu - noob to throttle sensors
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Old 05-05-2007, 07:47 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losiu
Hey guys,

I have no idea if this is the place to post this but...
Please take a look at this pic and tell me on which cables I should measure the voltage (throttle sensor) and why my reading was "0" when I tried between the black and the yellow ???

The bike clearly lacks power. Is there anything that's broken? How do I set the throttle sensor right in practice??

What is not working properly if it's true that there is no voltage on these cable?

Thanks in advance for any answers,

Losiu - noob to throttle sensors
  • Ignition on? (Don't laugh... it happens)
  • Kill switch in the "run" position? (Stop laughing... more common than the ignition being off)
  • Probes of the multi-meter actually making contact? (Sometimes, the assumption that shoving the probes into the rubber seals is a guaranteed method of getting a metal to metal contact, when in fact, it can be a real PITA to get a good connection)
  • Multi-meter set to the right function? (this little mistake is so common... you can't even begin to imagine )
  • TPS plugged in?
  • Are you operating the throttle?
Am I out of ideas? yes.

Ciao,
C
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Old 05-05-2007, 08:41 PM   #53
PASSMORE
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There was a speck of dirt on the hose clamp beneath the ornage hose in the photo of the engine.

I am crestfallen and disappointed in you Creepy...


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Old 05-05-2007, 08:43 PM   #54
creeper OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PASSMORE
There was a speck of dirt on the hose clamp beneath the ornage hose in the photo of the engine.

I am crestfallen and disappointed in you Creepy...


That dirt was imported from Tibet... just for you.
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Old 05-05-2007, 08:48 PM   #55
PASSMORE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
That dirt was imported from Tibet... just for you.

Free Tibet Mr Creeper, free Tibet won'tcha?

Glad to see you finall came to your senses and the propaganda finally worked. Welcome to the Order of FCR
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Old 05-05-2007, 08:51 PM   #56
creeper OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PASSMORE
Free Tibet Mr Creeper, free Tibet won'tcha?

Glad to see you finall came to your senses and the propaganda finally worked. Welcome to the Order of FCR
T'wasn't propaganda... t'was finding one for cheap.

I am freeing Tibet... or at least Tibet's dirt.


Coffee... I am in need of coffee.

Ciao,
C
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Old 05-05-2007, 11:02 PM   #57
holycaveman
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I got to know, is your bike really that clean!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL


Nice write up!

We installed a 40mm fcr on an adventure a few months ago. Like you said, pretty easy. Did notice a good bit of bottom end pickup!! Alot better throttle response. Had to drop the main to around a 142, then it ran out pretty well. For us(I should say for rob748 ) a definate improvement over the stock one.

Did the BK mod years ago, a waste in my op, but hey, ! did it anyways

Its pretty safe to say though that installing a fcr will decrease your gas mileage a bit. Nothing is free!

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Old 05-05-2007, 11:36 PM   #58
holycaveman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losiu
Hey guys,

I have no idea if this is the place to post this but...
Please take a look at this pic and tell me on which cables I should measure the voltage (throttle sensor) and why my reading was "0" when I tried between the black and the yellow ???

The bike clearly lacks power. Is there anything that's broken? How do I set the throttle sensor right in practice??

What is not working properly if it's true that there is no voltage on these cable?

Thanks in advance for any answers,

Losiu - noob to throttle sensors
The throttle sensor will not cause your bike to lack power. It can aid your bikes throttle response though. There is a whole procedure for accurately setting a tps unit. And you need a calculator (really) What most people do not realize is that you change your tps setting every time you adjust your idle. So what you should do is get your bike running well first, then set your idle the way you like, THEN start to calculate the tps and set it correctly.

But if your bike is lacking power, its not the tps. Check first off if you have black smoke at full throttle. Ours ran extremely rich when we first hooked it up. Make sure you have a good seal to the head, etc...........
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Old 05-06-2007, 04:27 AM   #59
losiu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
  • Ignition on? (Don't laugh... it happens)
  • Kill switch in the "run" position? (Stop laughing... more common than the ignition being off)
  • Probes of the multi-meter actually making contact? (Sometimes, the assumption that shoving the probes into the rubber seals is a guaranteed method of getting a metal to metal contact, when in fact, it can be a real PITA to get a good connection)
  • Multi-meter set to the right function? (this little mistake is so common... you can't even begin to imagine )
  • TPS plugged in?
  • Are you operating the throttle?
Am I out of ideas? yes.
Ciao,
C
All of the above seem to have been done correctly. We even stuck thin etal pins under the collars of the cables to make sure the probes were making contact with them. It's actually pretty hard to stick the probes directly next to the cables into the rubber seals that are around them. That's why we tried with the pins. No luck

Quote:
Originally Posted by holycaveman
The throttle sensor will not cause your bike to lack power. It can aid your bikes throttle response though. There is a whole procedure for accurately setting a tps unit. And you need a calculator (really) What most people do not realize is that you change your tps setting every time you adjust your idle. So what you should do is get your bike running well first, then set your idle the way you like, THEN start to calculate the tps and set it correctly.

But if your bike is lacking power, its not the tps. Check first off if you have black smoke at full throttle. Ours ran extremely rich when we first hooked it up. Make sure you have a good seal to the head, etc...........
Thanks holycaveman. It answers some of the questions I have and I will check for smoke - just in case. One thing is for sure - it wasn't and isn't set up right. We also tried to move the sensor without measuring anything with the meter just to see if it affects the performance in any way - we didn't notice anything really...

Losiu
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Old 10-27-2008, 06:10 AM   #60
meat popsicle
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FYI FCR Heathens

maybe this widget is common knowledge, although I got no hits on ADV with:

accelerator pump leak circuit

or maybe it suks just came across it and thought I'd post a link:

R&D Racing Float Bowl

http://www.sudco.com/bowl.html

"This float bowl works with all FCR MX carburetors. It allows for easy adjustment of the accelerator pump leak circuit by external thumb screw. Also features redesigned check valve and repositioned air bleed off orifice."


I have posted this for the KTM LC4 640 folks and now OC. If y'all think it should go elsewhere please spam it as you see fit.

meat popsicle screwed with this post 10-27-2008 at 06:17 AM
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