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Old 08-26-2009, 11:29 AM   #76
potatoho
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Regarding halfcab's suggestion, also check out Ace Hardware. They too have rubber couplings etc which may fit.

Like one of these no hub couplers as a source of rubber.

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Old 08-26-2009, 01:28 PM   #77
666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlandr
Re boots et al, probably worth checking Creepster's original text, ie ....
Unfortunately some of the Creepers original notes don't apply to this carb. The airbox side is completely different, as I mentioned earlier FCR changed from 07 and up.
In this photo I put Black arrow to the airbox side manifold which you can screw on the carb. Well new fcrs don't have it at all.


This is new style FCR sideview. Airbox side is on the right


no tapped holes on the airbox side


So, because of this you can't just buy boot for 625 since it was designed for old style fcr.
I am going to epoxy something to work with original boot.
Cylinder side may work with 625 boot if OD on the old style fcr is the same. Unfortunately I don't have one around to measure

I was at OSH this morning and tryied different rubber couplers, they all were wrong OD or ID.
I'll check some other places.

Even with all these issues it's gonna be much better than BST and worth the trouble. Every time I get on my 450 I can't believe throttle response.
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666 screwed with this post 08-26-2009 at 01:49 PM
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Old 08-26-2009, 05:32 PM   #78
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I went though all this a few month ago - yes a pain and yes worth the effort.

The 625 intake will not work that well, It is possible to shimmy it however if,
1. You super glue a strip of 1/8" rubber to the inside to reduce the ID on the carb side.
2. Slide the boot forward on the airbox side till it just catches.
3. Stretch the boot enough to catch the carb intake.
-the 625 Intake boot is an accordian style which makes this possible.

As you've probably discovered the carb is "shorter" front to back than it should be, and the intake side is too small OD.

I did the above, wasn't completely happy and found a post on Thumpertalk about a place (in Kansas I believe) that makes a retrofit intake bell. I went this route and bingo everything fits perfecto - it presses on, you just have to file off the little ridge.

Unfortunately I'm on the road and don't have the link but should be google-able. Best luck.
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Old 08-26-2009, 05:45 PM   #79
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Just realized I have a couple pics on my camera.
This shows the filing which I did with a dremel - note there is already a PowerNow pressed in.





Don't ask me why I didn't take a side shot, but here is it installed. I put a little silicone on the inside of the bell, but if you're carefull it's a snug press fit and shouldn't leak.

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Old 08-26-2009, 06:07 PM   #80
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Was it this company http://www.nossmachine.com/fcr_adapters.htm ?
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:46 PM   #81
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That's it. Give him a call, he should know which one.
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:15 PM   #82
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The power of google. Just had to type in "fcr adapters" and it comes in second.
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Old 08-31-2009, 10:12 PM   #83
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Well, The thing doesn't want to go in as easy as I hoped.
Look, it's basically touching exhaust. I guess this carb too tall for my bike. Thinking about banging exhaust. Should I?


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Old 09-01-2009, 05:20 AM   #84
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Bang that puppy!

But first I would try to reposition the exhaust as much as possible. It does have some movement. You just have to mess with it.
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Old 09-01-2009, 10:23 AM   #85
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 666
Well, The thing doesn't want to go in as easy as I hoped.
Look, it's basically touching exhaust. I guess this carb too tall for my bike. Thinking about banging exhaust. Should I?
I would not dent the exhaust pipe. You will be creating turbulence, which may interfere with the pipe's function if it is a significant amount. Try something else first:

I think some folks used a different fastener and/or filed it to give just enough clearance. Rotating the carb a bit may work too, but I am not sure how much you can rotate it before you upset carb function.
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Old 09-01-2009, 03:05 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
I think some folks used a different fastener and/or filed it to give just enough clearance. Rotating the carb a bit may work too, but I am not sure how much you can rotate it before you upset carb function.
I can't rotate FCR carb by much because of the frame. just few degrees in each direction. I'll try relocating exhaust before banging. Don't need to bend it that much and then I can always get another one on ebay for cheap.
I really doubt "turbulence" will have a measurable effect from a small dent here and there.

There is not so much material to remove from the carb to gain any clearance.
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Old 09-01-2009, 04:59 PM   #87
dirty_sanchez
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The accelerator pump is closest to the pipe. There's a small rubber bellows with a metal pin in the center of this thing.

I'm afeared it'll get too hot from the pipe.

I don't have my FCR mounted up on the '07 now, but on the '03, it was a snug fit but the acc. pump wasn't that close. I was able to turn the carb so the bowl area was further from the pipe.

Another option would be to add some insulating exhaust wrap in that location.

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Old 09-08-2009, 11:44 PM   #88
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I smacked exhaust a little and put tape around suspect area. I also got air side adapter from Nossmachine. Also I got recommended by other guys front boot(intake) with clamps. I reused stock airboot, fits just fine.








There is more clearance between the carb and exhaust than needed. Took a lot of work. I had to remove whole damn exhaust to bang it properly in the right place.
I removed TPS because my bike doesn't have any means to read it anyway. Also it's in the way because TPS interferes with frame. Should I cover or just leave it a is? It looks kind of sealed. May be I make a plug with oring.
I reused choke from bst, and stock cables work ok except that they are stretched and need replacement anyway. BTW I can easily remove cable cover and adjust them in place because whole carb is at a small angle(ever wonder how it works anyway when you leaned over?)
I installed jd kit with jd air screw.
Also I removed suzuki Phillips screws from the carb(I had to drill out 3 screws) and replaced then with proper 4mm screws. Are they really that cheap? saving 5 cents on screws?
Now I just need a test ride.
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Old 09-13-2009, 09:39 PM   #89
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update. Amazingly it all finally works. 5 from the top on blue JD needle, 45 and 175. Sea level.
It's harder on 00 because of the exhaust and cables. I had to order custom cable from motion pro with correct ends on both sides. 2000 has threaded inserts on throttle side. Which is nice because I can adjust cables without removing the tank.

Does it work great? Yes. Finally mid range is nice and responsive. Also bike goes faster at the same rpm level and top speed went up.(I opened the air box big time).
Now I just need 03 pipe so I can ditch expansion canister.
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Old 09-28-2009, 03:56 AM   #90
rallyelc4
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Here we go again (HELP)

gday all i am new to this site and trying to install a fcr on my 04lc4640e just wondering what part no is your carb and is there any advise you can give me on the install,ect part numbers dan.iam in melb aust btw, hopein someone local with same bike has done this swap but i will take anything you blokes can help me with.
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