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Old 02-25-2007, 06:46 AM   #16
Grumpy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katbeanz
I have a bunch of small conveyor rolls that when the bearing fails you end up with the outer race still in there.
What I do, and use this method at your own risk, is run a bead of weld on the inside of it, it will work with mig but works best stick welding.
As the weld cools it shrinks the race along with it and they normally just fall out with a tap on the side of the workbench.
This works 100% providing you have a arc welder and can weld.
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Old 02-25-2007, 06:53 AM   #17
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No welder... looks like it is time to learn. I've had a number of occasions lately that I've farmed out that could've been done at home.

What to buy for home use...?
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Old 02-25-2007, 01:13 PM   #18
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Weld a bar in place as per my post on this thread:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192590

Worked for me years ago.
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Old 02-25-2007, 02:07 PM   #19
katbeanz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gramps
Do you need to run a bead all the way around, or just a couple of inches?
I usually go all the way around for dramatic effect, it doesn't have to be pretty and 6011 or junkyard rod works pretty good.
These are steel rolls so obviously you don't want to accidently weld the race in place.
As I said use it at your own risk, I don't know how it might effect your hub. I would imagine you would want to have your ground clamp right on the race.
With an aluminum hub you don't have to worry about accidently welding the race in place.
I think it was motion pro that makes a tool for steering head races, spring steel fingers that pop out and grip the edge of the race, I think I'd rather weld it.
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Old 02-25-2007, 02:30 PM   #20
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just a minor point here

about DRZ bearings, but EVERY bearing I replace I get the number off the old one (or look at a new one and let the dealer keep it)

call your local bearing house

ask for an SKF or Timken and get double sealed (both sides)

usually they're less expensive and better quality

and no mo re-greasing after a mud ride
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Old 02-25-2007, 04:32 PM   #21
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OK, got it off - what a motherfucker. I don't have a welder, or a blind hole bearing puller set but I do have one hell of a dremel tool setup. I dremeled a slot in the race every 6-7mm and then with a good chisel, it popped out pretty easily.

thanks for the tips.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:01 PM   #22
vxweers
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usually forums are full of crap but if you just touch the bearing race with a stick welder in two places 180 degrees from one another the race will practically fall out.

I know. I just did it.
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